Reframe rafters or use elbows - what's the consensus?

[begreen]

Here's our offset. Note there is a 6" connector between elbows. I was dead set against it at first. Now I hardly notice it.

 

[smokinj]

Here's our offset. Note there is a 6" connector between elbows. I was dead set against it at first. Now I hardly notice it.

LOOKS GOOD!

 

[fossil]

Maybe a more informative pic for you & the wife to ponder. Doesn't really matter to the pipe where (vertically) the offset is installed. For clearances it might, depending on the installation configuration. Our Lopi pipe offsets toward the rear wall, like BG's, but clear up near the peak of the cathedral ceiling. Can't show you a pic of that one, 'cause it's all masked off for painting right now. Rick

EDIT: Very interesting what you related about all the conflicting info you got from the diferent installers. And I mean interesting in a somewhat disturbing way.

 

[coreystaf]

Tim consider putting the elbows at the top of the connector, they're even less noticeable up there.


I agree with Rick, Not sure how 4 installers could have such different ideas about the same job. Its one thing to cut into your own truss, but I don't understand how they say that they do it all the time. Ive never been in a certification course that didn't say very clearly more than once not to do that. STRANGE

 

[timfromohio]

Guys - thanks again for the pictures and useful discussion. I was looking at the stove and installation options again over the weekend and got to thinking about angling the pipe back towards the wall rather than forward in front of the stove. The manual states that I must maintain a certain clearance to the back wall (even if double walled pipe is used - I'm assuming b/c the stove has a cast iron top). I was planning on using double wall pipe anyway and got to thinking just b/c the stove can't be closer to the wall doesn't mean I can't angle the pipe back. It would look better that way and, most importantly, the wife would be happy.

Corey - originally I wanted to have the stove installed by somebody - the stove is going into a new kitchen/living room remodel which I'm doing. I figured it would be easier (and I really don't have the time if I want the rest of the project finished in a timely fashion) to have a professional do the installation. However, after the wide spectrum of responses from potential installers I've decided to do it myself - I just don't trust what these guys are saying. Not ONE took out a tape measure and checked ANYTHING. Just eyeballed and gave me a back of the envelope estimate - actually that's not correct, one was supposed to call me back with an estimate but I never heard from him. This guy was supposedly one of only two certified chimney sweeps in the area who was supposedly "Swiss trained", going through a very rigorous education program over there. He must have missed the session on calling the customer back.

 

[Tfin]

Since this became such a "hot" topic.....for clairification I didn't cut the bottom section of my truss (where the strapping and sheet rock attach to. But a piece of the 45deg section within the truss. This was then reframed to shore everything up again. I'm sure my roof is going to collaps and/or I'll never be able to sell the place if I so decide to in the future. :roll:

I'm not an engineer, but I didi stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. ;-)

 

[kjklosek]

Guys - thanks again for the pictures and useful discussion. I was looking at the stove and installation options again over the weekend and got to thinking about angling the pipe back towards the wall rather than forward in front of the stove. The manual states that I must maintain a certain clearance to the back wall (even if double walled pipe is used - I'm assuming b/c the stove has a cast iron top). I was planning on using double wall pipe anyway and got to thinking just b/c the stove can't be closer to the wall doesn't mean I can't angle the pipe back. It would look better that way and, most importantly, the wife would be happy.

Most double wall pipe requires that it be at least 6" from a wall or other combustible surface.

J.P.

 

[JPapiPE]

Registered State of Maine Engineer Here.... For the average guy it is best not to fool around with trusses. All the tension is on the bottom chord or the place where the ceiling strapping is attached too.... How hard is it for you to divert around the truss? Hard or not so hard? ... Sure a truss may be cut, but then a suitable framed opening must be installed using metal supports ect. By the way all these metal supports are made by Simpson...recognize the name? ...No? ...Simpson Dura -Vent....There are 3 forces at play here: compression, tension and shear.... If you want to cut a truss ...P.M me and I will tell you how to do it.
JPapi P.E.