Regency ci2700 one sided black soot buildup

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Jaro

New Member
Dec 17, 2020
8
netwon, pa
first, I am new to the forum and wanted to say thanks yo the wealth of info provided. I tried to do reserarch regarding black soot build up on one side of the ceramic glass but couldn’t find a good answer.

I had a new insert installed a couple months ago. My issue is that even when the temp in the stove is 1200 degrees, one side of the glass still has the black build up. No matter what, I can’t get it to burn off.

I do notice that the wood on that side really doesn’t burn as lively as the other side where the glass clears up when the wood heats up. It’s more of a charcoal burn.

is that side not getting enough oxygen flow or is an air wash issue? Maybe something clogged? I attached a picture of what I’m referring too.

thanks in advance. It’s super annoying. Otherwise, I lovethe insert.

regards,

jireh

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Weird, I go the exact same insert a month ago, and I have EXACTLY the same frustrating buildup in the same place. It takes me 15 minutes of scrubbing every day to clean it. My wood is dry, and I'm lighting the right type of fire. I've written to Regency but so far no response. I'm so disappointed, hope you get an answer here!
 
Weird, I go the exact same insert a month ago, and I have EXACTLY the same frustrating buildup in the same place. It takes me 15 minutes of scrubbing every day to clean it. My wood is dry, and I'm lighting the right type of fire. I've written to Regency but so far no response. I'm so disappointed, hope you get an answer here!
I have the same problem. I have just left it that way hoping that eventually it will disappear with heat. Maybe someone can fill us in on what causes this?
 
Weird, I go the exact same insert a month ago, and I have EXACTLY the same frustrating buildup in the same place. It takes me 15 minutes of scrubbing every day to clean it. My wood is dry, and I'm lighting the right type of fire. I've written to Regency but so far no response. I'm so disappointed, hope you get an answer here!
Just dip some wet paper towel in cold ashes and it will scrub right off.no need to spend 15 minutes cleaning that.
 
are you guys checking the moisture of your wood after splitting? My moisture is around 20%. I think maybe that could be part of the issue.

also, does your insert get to 1200 degrees before slowly falling in temp?
 
I'm just spitballing here, it may be a weaker gasket seal on the hinge side. What style gasket seal is on this insert, flat face or knife-edge seal?
 
Just wanted to resurface this thread. I installed the same stove in the spring and have just started using it this week and have the same problem. I'm burning wood that is around 10% moisture and following the instructions from Regency. The past couple of days I've burned it all day, closing the bypass above 500 degrees and mostly keeping the damper closed all the way. I thought that may be contributing to buildup on the right side of the glass so today I left the damper around 50% but the black buildup on the right side has not burned off.
I've cleaned the stove the day after (when the glass has cooled down) using a wet paper towel and some ash. The majority of the soot comes off quite easy but the right side is really baked on and takes a lot of elbow grease to remove. Just wanted to see if anyone has figured out what might be happening?
 
10 pct mc is not likely in NJ.
Please put a split in the LR for 24 hrs, then split it in half and measure on the inside (along the grain).

Most creosote inside a stove.is because of wet wood.

The other possibility is not enough draft. Either because it's still too warm outside (cold weather improves draft), or because the chimney is nit tall enough. So how tall is it?
 
10 pct mc is not likely in NJ.
Please put a split in the LR for 24 hrs, then split it in half and measure on the inside (along the grain).

Most creosote inside a stove.is because of wet wood.

The other possibility is not enough draft. Either because it's still too warm outside (cold weather improves draft), or because the chimney is nit tall enough. So how tall is it?
The wood I’m burning right now has been split and covered for about 2 years. I checked some the other day with my moisture meter along the grain on the inside and it was reading around 10%.

I don’t remember exactly but I believe the chimney is 25 feet tall.

Yeah, outside temps have been in the upper 40’s so maybe the draft isn’t as good as it should be?
 
I can't argue with measured data, but I can doubt the measurements.
10 pct is below the equilibrium moisture content here, most of the year. It just doesn't happen.

Chimney seems okay. Upper 40s is a bit high indeed. Try this weekend at night; supposed to be colder.
 
I can't argue with measured data, but I can doubt the measurements.
10 pct is below the equilibrium moisture content here, most of the year. It just doesn't happen.

Chimney seems okay. Upper 40s is a bit high indeed. Try this weekend at night; supposed to be colder.
Good call. I just remeasured some pieces inside by the fireplace and they’re reading 10-12% but stuff outside on the porch is reading between 15-18%.
 
The unevenness can be because of a leaking door gasket.

Have you done the dollar bill test?
 
The unevenness can be because of a leaking door gasket.

Have you done the dollar bill test?
Yeah, I did the test this morning. The seal is tight all the way around. It’s just crazy how much the soot on the right side really baked on. I cleaned the glass this morning with some damp newspaper and ash and it cleaned up well except for the right. I had to scrub for a half hour just to make a dent in it.
 
I’m wondering now if it’s like this because the seal on the hinge side is flatter in the middle. I just realized that like a 2 inch section isn’t the same as the rest. Is there a reason Regency does this?

AD9E4401-F272-476E-9289-DC9D3CE99D82.jpeg
 
I don't know Regency stoves. Normally when cold air leaks in, that is where you see black stuff.

Is your window sealed well? Put one flat hand on one side, the other flat hand on the other side, and try to move the window in the frame. If it does, things are not right. (Make sure you don't accidentally lift the door off of the hinges if that is possible!).

Wood seems good, chimney seems good, dollar test seems good.
I think (hope) a draft issue because of outside temps a bit too warm still. I think this weekend evenings/nights you should have better draft, so I'd try again then.

Otherwise I'm out of ideas. Others here may have more thoughts.
 
Btw, is the chimney straight up, or do you have elbows (up a bit, horizontal a bit, up more)? That could affect draft as well.
 
Btw, is the chimney straight up, or do you have elbows (up a bit, horizontal a bit, up more)? That could affect draft as well.
Thanks! I just check the glass and it's definitely not moving at all. Yes, the chimney is straight up and the chimney liner is I believe 6" and I had the installer wrap with insulation.
 
That all sounds good.
Get back after this weekend's fire. I hope more experienced people will be able to say more. (Or it will be clean then...)

Last thought: if your air system is like that on my stove, I have two pipes going from the back (air inlet) to the front, in the top left and right of the firebox, where they connect to the airwash lip.
If you only get air on one side, the other side would get blackened.
Is there a spider next in one side? I.e. is air flow restricted? If you can, see if you can use a snake (drain or electric) to go thru the air ways to make sure all is clear?
 
For what it's worth, I've owned two inserts (Regency and Jotul) in two very different houses and both had a tendency to smut up more on the hinge side of the glass than the latch side. Neither came close to the level of difficulty cleaning described here, but I'e always wondered why the bias toward the hinge side.
 
Update: I cleaned the glass very thoroughly a few days ago, mostly with water/ash and lots of elbow grease. I had to use a razor blade to scrape off some of the really baked-on soot on the hinge side.
I've used the stove twice since then and both times I let it get a little hotter before closing the bypass. I was originally closing it right around 500F but these times I waited until around 600F. I also left the air damper fully open for a little longer and when I closed it, I didn't close it all the way but left it maybe 1/4 open. I let the fires burn overnight and when I checked in the morning the glass had some noticeable soot on it but mostly just a haze as opposed to the really blackened/baked-on soot I had before. I made sure the door was cool before wiping it down with a paper towel and a bit of apple cider vinegar and the glass cleaned up perfectly.

I think I may have just been closing the bypass too soon and damper fully too soon so the air wash was not doing a good job. I'll see how the stove performs as winter approaches in NJ. I'll likely want to keep the air damper fully closed overnight to get a longer burn. I'll post additional updates if I notice the soot on the glass becoming a problem again.
 
I'd be careful using acids on/near a steel stove. A wet newspaper dipped into the (cold!) ashes works well for most situations.
 
Leaving the air control open a little is fairly common. As winter temps set in, the draft will increase. That too will affect the air control setting. So will the need for more heat to compensate for the house's heat loss.
 
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