I have a large winterwarm (installed 1994). I replaced the door gasket (seems okay) and tried to replace the damper gasket. I did my best to clean the channel. However I had no luck installing the new one. I used gasket cement but 3/8" rutland rope gasket kept falling out before I could get it all in. Do I did to remove the assembly to clean and install the new gasket? Next step will be glass door gasket (I haven't purchased gasket yet). Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Bruce
replacing damper gasket on lg Winterwarm
- Thread starter drbec
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
drbec said:
Hey, Bruce,
You should probably remove the entire damper asssembly in order to clean the gasket channel. When I was a rebuilder of the Vermont Castings line, I had some old slotted screwdrivers that I modified on a grinding wheel to shape of various channels. I used a brass hammer to "chisel" out all the old furnace cement, then used an electriic (Dumore) grinder with a wire wheel to get EVERYTHING - including rust - out of the channels...
WEAR A FULL FACE SHIELD & RESPIRATOR if you're gonna grind!
Wipe the channel with a damp rag to remove any dust.
Run a small (<1/8" wide) bead of furnace cement down the middle of the channel & use a piece of gasket or a Q-tip or your pinkie to smear the furnace cement into a primer for the entire channel surface.
Let this "prime" set for about 10 minutes.
Apply another bead (1/8 - 1/4 wide) to the center of the groove.
On the damper frame, start the gasket in the center of the bottom portion & press it into the furnace cement, but DO NOT STRETCH IT.
Press it into the groove until you make it all the way around to the start point THEN cut the gasket to form a clean seal with VERY sharp scissors.
Wipe off any excess furncae cement that squeezed out from under the gasket.
Let the whole thing set up for 10 minutes or so, then re-install the assembly & close it tightly.
Wait a couple of hours before you fire up the WW.
As an aside to this, I now prefer to use hi-temp clear RTV silicone in lieu of furnace cement.
It secures a lot better, especially to them damn gold-plated doors!
Thanks Daksy, great directions. I probably won't have a chance to work on it until the weekend. Is there any advice for the window gasket (besides the RTV silicone)? Bruce
Well I gave it a try this a.m. I am stuck trying to get the frame around the damper off. I removed lower fire back and throat pieces. There are two bolts that seem to hold the frame. Both loosen but then the backing spins. Even with them loose, I do not feel any play in the frame piece. Any advice at this point? Bruce
- Status
Similar threads
