Resolute III questions

[Clairee]

So after reading the Wiki "operate an older VC Resolute" my next project is to remove the plate and clean behind the damper as I doubt it's been done lately. Although I've done routine maintenance and re-cemented a Defiant I've never taken a VC stove apart so have a bit of trepidation about doing this, but I assume it can't be too complicated as it's something that should be done once or twice per season -- anything in particular I should watch for or be aware of? Is there gasket that will need to be replaced?



The stove doesn't appear to be warped (but hey, what do I know??) however there are a couple of small cracks in the fireback -- is this a problem? Should they be cemented?






The tops (circles) of the andirons were removed but the andirons are solid - any potential problems here?

Should the seams in the firebox (hope I'm using the right terms) be filled with stove/furnace cement?

Claire

 

[webbie]

I wouldn't worry about those small cracks in the fireback....

Taking any older stove apart can cause problems....broken bolts being the most common! If you can take the stove outside and have a good vacuum and/or leaf blower, you may be able to get most of the ash out of the rear chambers with air pressure. I don't think you have to take it apart twice a season! Maybe one cleaning late each spring will do....and, this usually does not involve taking the stove apart - or at least not most of it.

You should be able to dig up a service manual or at least a good parts lists - as I remember, you have to remove a "horn" from the lower part of the inside of the stove, and that lets you snake a boiler brush and vacuum hose in there. Between that and getting into it with the collar removed, you should be able to get it fairly clean.

As to whether you need to re-cement, use the old droplight test. Put a light inside it in a dark room and see if you can see anything through the seams. If so, dampen those areas and cement from the inside.

Looks like this is the parts list. If you can get that large right side interior inner part off, you are golden in terms of getting to the entire thing to clean it, but again you have to watch for frozen or rusted bolts.
(broken link removed to http://www.discountstove.com/0043.html)

 

[Clairee]

I wouldn't worry about those small cracks in the fireback....

Good news!

Taking any older stove apart can cause problems....broken bolts being the most common!

Would really prefer NOT to take anything apart!

If you can take the stove outside and have a good vacuum and/or leaf blower, you may be able to get most of the ash out of the rear chambers with air pressure.

Not an option at this point...

I don't think you have to take it apart twice a season! Maybe one cleaning late each spring will do....and, this usually does not involve taking the stove apart - or at least not most of it.

Perhaps I didn't ask the right question -- instead of 'taking the stove apart', what I meant was taking the plate off to clean behind/under the damper area. I got this from the hearth wiki article "operate an older VC Resolute":

To clean behind the Damper area, you need to unscrew the plate on top or rear of the stove. Mine is setup for rear exit so I dont have to mess with the pipe, I just pop the top plate off. If yours is a top exit, the plate will be on the back of the stove but it is far easier to clean it from the top. There are a couple of hex head screws that hold the plate and exhaust collar on. Scrape behind and under the Damper area and then shop vac out all the build up and be sure the gasket stays in place when you reinstall. Shop vac all the air ports while your there. You can expect to do this at least a couple times each season depending on wood quality and burn temps.

--

So: is this something I should be looking at doing, and if so, how complicated is it to do for someone who is -- to say the least -- not particularly adept at this sort of thing? I just want the stove to operate as well as possible so if it's not necessary I would rather leave it alone...just wondering if that area of the stove (behind/under damper) is clogged with ash which would interfere with it working properly. I haven't attempted to even see if the screws will 'move' or not...

You should be able to dig up a service manual or at least a good parts lists - as I remember, you have to remove a "horn" from the lower part of the inside of the stove, and that lets you snake a boiler brush and vacuum hose in there. Between that and getting into it with the collar removed, you should be able to get it fairly clean.

As to whether you need to re-cement, use the old droplight test. Put a light inside it in a dark room and see if you can see anything through the seams. If so, dampen those areas and cement from the inside.

I did this and no light leaks through so looks good!

Looks like this is the parts list. If you can get that large right side interior inner part off, you are golden in terms of getting to the entire thing to clean it, but again you have to watch for frozen or rusted bolts.
(broken link removed to http://www.discountstove.com/0043.html)

ACK! This lsouonds waaay beyond my 'abilities'. I guess the big question is, should I leave well enough alone or attempt to take the top plate off and clean behind and under the damper area?

Thanks so much for your help.
C

 

[webbie]

Yes, I'd say just clean out what you can see and get to! It doesn't look too clogged up. When they fill with fly ash you'd see it up to the level of those holes in the fireback.

The leaf blower trick is always good if you get it outside....

 

[Clairee]

Getting back to the stove after spending yesterday putting in 3 cords of beautiful seasoned 16" maple (so much easier than those huge 22" logs for the Defiant).
When I cleaned the Resolute I poked the holes in the fireback with a metal skewer and the ash cleared easily so assume I couldn't have done that if that area were clogged up. Now I'll replace the griddle gasket, connect the stovepipe and be able to get the stove going this afternoon.

Thanks!
C