RSF Opel AP fireplace not heating like new.

[lamarkeiko]

I had this fireplace installed in a new home in 2006. When first installed the air coming out the top louvers was very hot. The underside of the mantel above would be very hot to the touch. Now when I have a good fire going the mantel underside is just warm. I monitored the air temperature coming out the louvers at 148 deg. F. I have gone to my local dealer with this report and the fireplace has been vacuumed and cleaned with no change in heat output.
In order to get sufficient heat out now, I need the blower on high or have the doors open. This is not satisfactory.
Please help.
Lamar

 

[begreen]

This could be the wood supply. If the wood is not fully seasoned it will put out a lot less heat. Also, the wood species can directly affect the heat output.

Has the baffle been checked to be sure it is in good condition and seated correctly. There should be no cracks, holes, or chunks missing. Does this fireplace have the catalyst option?

 

[lamarkeiko]

Thanks for the reply back.
The wood I have been burning has been exclusively oak and madrone off my own property. Probably about 75% oak which I generally cut very early in the year before sap starts flowing and leaves begin to grow. I'll have the trees cut down and cut into firewood length and have it all split before summer starts. It will be spread out to dry all summer and start being stacked in my woodshed around September. The madrone I cut will be dead standing wood that is already very dry before splitting. I've never considered my wood not seasoned long enough for burning. Where I live, I average about 95 deg. and very low humidity summers and the wood seemed dry enough to burn well.
Do you think my wood could be seasoned longer?
As far as the baffle being checked, I really don't know what or where that is. I've looked inside the fire box and don't see anything out of order. The brick lining appears in good condition.
I'm pretty sure I don't have a catalytic option. That is listed as an accessory, and it was not on my order when I purchased the fireplace.
Attached is a view of my fireplace.

 

[lamarkeiko]

One other thing I forgot to mention that this fireplace apparently has is a Bi-metallic Air control. I was always wondering if this could be a problem if not working correctly. I don't know where it is lo9cated to check.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for the reply back.
The wood I have been burning has been exclusively oak and madrone off my own property. Probably about 75% oak which I generally cut very early in the year before sap starts flowing and leaves begin to grow. I'll have the trees cut down and cut into firewood length and have it all split before summer starts. It will be spread out to dry all summer and start being stacked in my woodshed around September. The madrone I cut will be dead standing wood that is already very dry before splitting. I've never considered my wood not seasoned long enough for burning. Where I live, I average about 95 deg. and very low humidity summers and the wood seemed dry enough to burn well.
Do you think my wood could be seasoned longer?
As far as the baffle being checked, I really don't know what or where that is. I've looked inside the fire box and don't see anything out of order. The brick lining appears in good condition.
I'm pretty sure I don't have a catalytic option. That is listed as an accessory, and it was not on my order when I purchased the fireplace.
Attached is a view of my fireplace.

Oak in particular takes a long time to dry. I don't have any to compare with, but I do burn madrona sometimes. It has never fully dried in less than a year for me. 2 yrs is typical. The best way to find out is to resplit it and test the moisture level on the freshly exposed face of the wood. This is best done at room temp.

 

[begreen]

One other thing I forgot to mention that this fireplace apparently has is a Bi-metallic Air control. I was always wondering if this could be a problem if not working correctly. I don't know where it is lo9cated to check.

That's very interesting. It's the first time I have seen this mentioned. If this is failing to control the air you would notice in a change in the fire intensity.

 

[begreen]

The baffle is at the top of the firebox, part 11.6. P in this diagram.

 

[lamarkeiko]

I have a moisture meter. Is there a recommended moisture content for burning oak?

 

[begreen]

Yes, on a freshly split face the moisture content should be below 20%. This should be done at room temperature and press the prongs in firmly for an accurate reading.

 

[lamarkeiko]

OK, I'll check it out.

 

[moresnow]

Freshly split means split it just prior to applying the meter.

 

[lamarkeiko]

I just split one of my larger oak pieces and my moisture meter indicated 16% in the middle.

 

[moresnow]

Sounds like primo fuel.

 

[jjfmetal]

I had this fireplace installed in a new home in 2006. When first installed the air coming out the top louvers was very hot. The underside of the mantel above would be very hot to the touch. Now when I have a good fire going the mantel underside is just warm. I monitored the air temperature coming out the louvers at 148 deg. F. I have gone to my local dealer with this report and the fireplace has been vacuumed and cleaned with no change in heat output.
In order to get sufficient heat out now, I need the blower on high or have the doors open. This is not satisfactory.
Please help.
Lamar

@Crocks Got any idea what this could be?

 

[jjfmetal]

I had this fireplace installed in a new home in 2006. When first installed the air coming out the top louvers was very hot. The underside of the mantel above would be very hot to the touch. Now when I have a good fire going the mantel underside is just warm. I monitored the air temperature coming out the louvers at 148 deg. F. I have gone to my local dealer with this report and the fireplace has been vacuumed and cleaned with no change in heat output.
In order to get sufficient heat out now, I need the blower on high or have the doors open. This is not satisfactory.
Please help.
Lamar

@Crocks and I both have the Opel 2000 which is basically the same as your AP. Could you take a picture of the inside looking up at the Baffle? Like Begreen said check that baffle its like all your heat is going straight up the chimney

 

[begreen]

I just split one of my larger oak pieces and my moisture meter indicated 16% in the middle.

That's perfect and surprising for oak split this year. You will be the envy of folks on the east coast.
Next step is a thorough baffle inspection.

 

[Crocks]

Could you please attach upload photos or video of your stove while it is burning, with the draft control on the lowest setting, or where you typically run the stove ?

 

[lamarkeiko]

Here's the fire burning now. I'll post a picture of the baffle area after burning this morning.

 

[Crocks]

Are you noticing any control over the fire with the damper ?

 

[lamarkeiko]

The fire is definitely dampened when using damper control.

 

[lamarkeiko]

With the blower on and a good fire going, what should be the temperature of the air coming out the upper louvers?

 

[jjfmetal]

With the blower on and a good fire going, what should be the temperature of the air coming out the upper louvers?

a lot more than 148 degrees

 

[Crocks]

No idea never measured. Are you sure nothing got closed during the lasts cleaning . I read a post on here with a Opel, once guys Opel would not put any heat out of the louver. I guess his had a plate that closes off the louver when fire place isnt in use.
I was trying to find the post before I mentioned to better explain the scenario. But yes check it

 

[jjfmetal]

With the blower on and a good fire going, what should be the temperature of the air coming out the upper louvers?

I have actually had 150+ coming out in the morning with not a lot of coals left

 

[jjfmetal]

I say load that sucker up with wood and damper that thing down after about 20 min or so and see how hot she gets.