Does anyone know where I can buy, or get tanks made that saddle on the outside sides or top of a wood stove that can be heat exchangers using water or glycol as the medium
Saddle Tanks
- Thread starter Shagpal
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
What stove? I haven’t seen any for todays more modern EPA stoves having that option but maybe you could retrofit something from a sauna stove manufacture or wood cook stove. I know my Nippa sauna stove has a side water tank option.
Isn't that an insert? Is it being used outside of a masonry fireplace or is three just a lot of room around it? I don't this idea will work well due to the convection jacket around the stove.
it is the insert model. the convection jacket is only in from the bottom, around the back, and thru the top. the lower sides are not part of that jacket and the lower portions of the side between the removable baffles are available. the very top also gets hot enuff to boil a kettle. I am not looking to boil water, only to move some heat
in your house, perhaps.
in my house, no. I need to move that heat to radiant floor heating downstairs
I am not convinced that adding a reservoir on the outside is going to be able to transport a decent amount of heat.
Whatever.
It's unlikely you'll get a constant (slow) stream of 120 F from reservoirs on the outside of your insert.
Go ahead, expend the energy and money. Be prepared to be disappointed.
It's unlikely you'll get a constant (slow) stream of 120 F from reservoirs on the outside of your insert.
Go ahead, expend the energy and money. Be prepared to be disappointed.
I am simply adding, not relying on this. I have a navien natural gas tankless water heater for that. I also have insulated storage tanks.
I wish to stay married, not ghetto the house with fans trying direct upper floor warm air down some stairs.
It's not going to work it either isn't going to transfer enough heat to make a difference. Or if you get good heat transfer it will lower the firebox temp too much and you will get creosote buildup. This insert isn't designed to be a hydronic heater.
again, many here think I only have wood stove. I have insulated storage and a natural gas tankless water heater. I can do more than one thing, if that was what you were thinking. putting warmer water as input into my tankless is better than putting in cold water straight from the pipes underground
your advice is based upon your house. thanks, but I will simply assume you didn't know enuff about my application to comment
I asked not about the worth. I asked if anyone knows where something can be obtained
I have lined up a fabricator to weld up using stainless already. I just wanted to know if this was common or if there was an outfit that already has these fabricated that I can buy off the shelf.
I appreciate the note about firebox temps, I understand the secondary burn. this model has a bottom, back, to top convection space. that space should keep anything from drawing away so much heat that the upper chamber will not fire the secondary burn.
my cabin is not large, but the wood stove is on an upper floor that gets too hot, and lower floor that needs a furnace turned on to stay warm. this will allow some heat moved downstairs. I never put in enuff wood into the box because it fires too hot upstairs, and that holds me back from getting the stove hot enuff for a good secondary burn. with drawing away some heat to the lower floors, I can crank up the stove and use it as it was intended. for the fyi crowd that needs to know, I had already invested in the radiant floor using a navien tankless anyways. I'm not spending much more other than for the saddle tanks and some plumbing
for me, yes. as in insert for others, hard to say. I don't know the box they started with before getting their insert in, so I can't speak to that.
I have plenty of space on the left and right of the unit. the sides are not part of the convection jacket, but there are removable plates that forms convection space. those are removeable, so 1.25" wide clearance inside the space when the convection plates are attached. I would avoid the right side since it is always the cooler side due to the combustion air being drawn in from the right side. the lower bottom of the sides are always way cooler than the tops, so the lower left side is a good place to tap for heat without dampening the upper chamber temps
it is beveled 45 in the back. that is on the outside of the convection jacket. the space to the left and right of the flue collar. those are good spaces, as well as a big flat space on top, which is the biggest space, are idea places to tap. top is on outside of convection jacket as well and past the post secondary burn.
instead of regular firebrick, I lined the inside of the firebox with sheets of alumina brick, which is far more refractory and reflects the heat back towards the center of the box. on a good day, I can get a secondary burn visually from the air tubes with just one log when it's fully going.
Sounds like it's set in a large fireplace. Seems like it might be a hassle to plumb and not have the wife upset. There needs to be a thermal expansion tank, temp/pressure relief valve, pump, etc. This is much easier with a freestanding stove that doesn't have all the surrounding masonry in the way. What about putting a wood stove downstairs and using that to heat both floors?
there is not any way to just haul a wood stove downstairs. there's no where to put it down there. I have radiant floor, why not just tie it in?
I would be thrown outa my own home if I tried. it's a smallish cabin.
the fireplace is encased in zero clearance sheet metal layers, 2 gapped layers. the stove pipe is standard lowes selkirk supervent stainless double wall, 4x 3ft sections.
for the plumbing ports, I will step bit the plumbing holes right thru that sheet metal, just like the holes that were there when gas lines penetrated thru those holes. I will come in from the outside and use flexible corrugated stainless lines to pipe that in and out
So you have an insert in a gutted zero clearance fireplace????? You do realize how dangerous that can be right? This is getting worse and worse.
it works, and the side never heats up to where I can't put my hand on it. you need to stop stalking me and relax, mod
- Status
Similar threads
