SBI Flame XVR-II poor combustion

[patrick.ogrady]

I have the same symptoms other users report. Using well seasoned wood, I get a smoky burn, often unable to maintain minimal flame with draft wide open. The glass door now has a layer of dark film over it. If I open the door the flame increases dramatically. I can regulate the flame with the door open but as soon as I close it I usually lose the flame. Because of the increased flame with the open door, I believe I need more intake air. This stove model does not apparently have an intake air kit option. So does anyone have any suggestions short of buying a new stove? Thanks for all replies

PS: On the back of the stove in the upper right corner there is a blocked round port with 4 screw holes. Does anyone know what this is for? See attached drawing for location.

 

[BrotherBart]

Tell us the details of the chimney setup you are using with this stove.

 

[patrick.ogrady]

Sure, I have 6 inch stove pipe rising approx. 2 feet above the stove to a 90, running about 18 inchs before turning and rising to the stainless steel chimney at the ceiling. That runs about 5 feet through the roof and extends another 3 feet past the shingles.

 

[begreen]

Here's what the manual has to say:
The minimum overall height of the chimney system, measured from the stove top to the
exterior termination cap of the chimney should be at least 12' (3.66m). A chimney which is
too short may lack the “tunnel effect” required to obtain a proper draft.

It sounds like a short flue exacerbated by the pair of 90s. From the description there is only 10 feet of vertical rise. The 2 90's are effectively turning this into about 5 ft. of drafting pipe. If this is single wall pipe, it will draft even poorer due to the cooling of the flue gases. If the horiz. run is not pitched uphill towards the flue then the problems just gets worse.

The solution would be to add a few feet more pipe on top and change the 2 -90s out for a pair of 45's with a diagonal connector. Double-wall pipe may help here too.


PS: The stove does have an outside air option. That is the lower assembly shown in the diagram and on page 25-26 of the manual. It doesn't seem like this is the problem, assuming the wood is totally dry. But to check, try opening a door or window near the stove. It is suddenly drafts better, then an outside air kit may help.

 

[patrick.ogrady]

I guess I underestimated the importance of the flue length. I did the pipe myself and it looks awful. I will probably have a pro do as you recommend, thanks!

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Perhaps you also underestimated your seasoned wood? How was that wood seasoned? That is, when was it cut to length, split and stacked? How and where was it stacked? What kind of wood do you have?

You can get by sometimes with less chimney than recommended but only if you have very well seasoned wood. And never believe what a wood seller says when he says it is seasoned! 99% of them just say it is seasoned or just do not understand what seasoned wood really is.

Have a minimum of a two year supply of wood on hand always!

 

[patrick.ogrady]

No my wood has been sitting at least 2 yrs, blocked, split and stacked. Another woodstove owner told me from the endcracks it looked like it was around 15% moisture content. He also suggested a couple of feet of extra chimney.

 

[Slow1]

No my wood has been sitting at least 2 yrs, blocked, split and stacked. Another woodstove owner told me from the endcracks it looked like it was around 15% moisture content. He also suggested a couple of feet of extra chimney.

I don't trust end cracks for telling much about moisture content. Heck, I only barely trust my moisture meter some days. I've had some SERIOUS end cracks show up on my wood along with nice greying of the ends already and it has only been stacked for 8 months or so. I checked the piles recently and the oak is all over 30% still.

Now - split and stacked well for over 2 years I trust based on what folks have posted here.

 

[laynes69]

This may be irelevent, but my furnace says not to allow too much ash buildup. There is a 1/4 inch hole in the front of the firebox at the base and one midway up in the back. I guess this acts as a pilot flame for the secondaries. If these plug, it can affect the operation of the unit.

 

[begreen]

No my wood has been sitting at least 2 yrs, blocked, split and stacked. Another woodstove owner told me from the endcracks it looked like it was around 15% moisture content. He also suggested a couple of feet of extra chimney.

Can you post a picture of the current setup, inside and outside flue?

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

Im with BG on this one. Sounds like a very short flue to me. Do you have the 1/4" per foot a rise on the horizontal? The burn characterists you describe are textbook short flue issues.

 

[patrick.ogrady]

Problem solved, I think. At the hardware store yesterday and noticed the same model stove on the floor. Where the stovepipe exits the stove there is a blanket of white insulation(?), I'm not sure what it's purpose is. On my stove the steel "punchout" for the stovepipe exit was lying on top of this white material and compressing it, but on the new stove at the store there was no piece of steel. I had wondered if that was put there purposely or by accident. Anyway, I removed it yesterday and the stove has been burning perfectly! Should I email Flame Intl to let them know their QA was a little off that day.