Scan wood stove, alternative to skamol?

[kksalm]

I looked at buying a used Scan 60 last night. Every skamol panel inside was cracked and they live down a very bumpy road. I'm guessing a ride in the back of my truck will render the stove useless and in need of a complete rebuild kit. I'm wondering if there is a similar panel available for a do it yourselfer to cut and install. I haven't got a price quote yet for the complete kit but one baffle is quoted at $70. Ouch.
Thank you for any reply, best regards from the frozen North.

 

[begreen]

Paging precaud, refractory panels call.

 

[precaud]

The Skamol panels are 1" thick. I have not yet found a suitable material in that thickness that is affordable. My Nestor Martin has 1" Skamol side panels and I'd like to replace them with something better, but no luck yet. Unless you have access to the exact dimensions of each panel, you may have to buy a set.

 

[kksalm]

Thank you for your input. I was thinking...... what if I made them out of porcelain or stoneware and fired them in a kiln to cone 10? If the originals are 1 inch couldn't I replace with something not as thick as long as it reflects the heat?
Thanks again, KKSalmon

 

[precaud]

Ken, here is a view of all of the Skamol panels used in the Scan 60. It's not only the sides, back, and bottom, but the baffles as well. Reproducing them is not going to be easy.

I love the Scan 60, by the way. It's the first of the Euro "big glass" stoves I experienced burning, and was amazed at how much heat was thrown forward by it.

 

[precaud]

More thoughts. As you can see, the two baffles have pins which fit into holes drilled in the Skamol, the pins fit into receptacles in the stove body to hold the baffles in place. Dimensions and tolerances would have to be pretty tight on these. If the other pieces are merely cracked, you should try cementing them back together with furnace cement.

You could probably use Kaowool M-board for the two baffle pieces, since they are not subject to being banged up by wood. It is available in 1" thickness, is thermally superior to the Skamol, is fairly reasonable, and you can cut it into shapes pretty easily. The bit about the holes is an unknown, though.

I replaced the Skamol baffle in my X33 with 1" M-board and the stove definitely burns better with it in there.

Regardless, if you decide to buy the stove, definitely remove all the Skamol pieces before transporting it.

 

[kksalm]

That's great advice. I offered a lower price to the seller so I'll post if I end up with the stove. Hopefully the panels will stay together if and when I make the move.
Thank you for the replies, K.K.Salmon

 

[precaud]

Good luck with it, Ken. And keep us posted...

 

[vrojkov]

More thoughts. As you can see, the two baffles have pins which fit into holes drilled in the Skamol, the pins fit into receptacles in the stove body to hold the baffles in place. Dimensions and tolerances would have to be pretty tight on these. If the other pieces are merely cracked, you should try cementing them back together with furnace cement.

You could probably use Kaowool M-board for the two baffle pieces, since they are not subject to being banged up by wood. It is available in 1" thickness, is thermally superior to the Skamol, is fairly reasonable, and you can cut it into shapes pretty easily. The bit about the holes is an unknown, though.

I replaced the Skamol baffle in my X33 with 1" M-board and the stove definitely burns better with it in there.

Regardless, if you decide to buy the stove, definitely remove all the Skamol pieces before transporting it.

Precaud,

This post is 2 years old, but it popped up when I searched forum for Scan.

I have my Scan 60 for 4 seasons now. Great stove. It is very efficient and has unbelievable fire presentation via it's huge glass. But definitely not an all-nighter stove.
Last 3 seasons I use it as a primary heat source for my 1250 SQFT ranch.
When I did preseason clean up yesterday right small panel (#8 in your diagram) fall apart right where pin hole is.
I am thinking to use fireplace cement to 'glue' it. But I also observed cracks on a big back and left panels.

So I am wondering about your experience with M-boards as a replacement for Skamol. Or maybe you know if Skamol or Skamolex
panels are available now in US.

 

[REDTAIL]

More thoughts. As you can see, the two baffles have pins which fit into holes drilled in the Skamol, the pins fit into receptacles in the stove body to hold the baffles in place. Dimensions and tolerances would have to be pretty tight on these. If the other pieces are merely cracked, you should try cementing them back together with furnace cement.

You could probably use Kaowool M-board for the two baffle pieces, since they are not subject to being banged up by wood. It is available in 1" thickness, is thermally superior to the Skamol, is fairly reasonable, and you can cut it into shapes pretty easily. The bit about the holes is an unknown, though.

I replaced the Skamol baffle in my X33 with 1" M-board and the stove definitely burns better with it in there.

Regardless, if you decide to buy the stove, definitely remove all the Skamol pieces before transporting it.

Precaud,

This post is 2 years old, but it popped up when I searched forum for Scan.

I have my Scan 60 for 4 seasons now. Great stove. It is very efficient and has unbelievable fire presentation via it's huge glass. But definitely not an all-nighter stove.
Last 3 seasons I use it as a primary heat source for my 1250 SQFT ranch.
When I did preseason clean up yesterday right small panel (#8 in your diagram) fall apart right where pin hole is.
I am thinking to use fireplace cement to 'glue' it. But I also observed cracks on a big back and left panels.

So I am wondering about your experience with M-boards as a replacement for Skamol. Or maybe you know if Skamol or Skamolex
panels are available now in US.

vrojkov, Please see my post about #8: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/89596/

Best Regards,
Redtail

 

[vrojkov]

RedTail,
Sorry to hear about your troubles with scan60 stove.

In my case I was lucky to find out about the crack during cleanup which I perfored prior to heating season.
As a temporary solution I used fire cement to fix the crack.

As I mentioned my stove has cracks on two more panels , so I will be looking for a complete scamol panels replacement set this summer.
I am not sure how expensive this could be. That's why I am trying to find out information about using alternatives like M-boards.

 

[REDTAIL]

RedTail,
Sorry to hear about your troubles with scan60 stove.

In my case I was lucky to find out about the crack during cleanup which I perfored prior to heating season.
As a temporary solution I used fire cement to fix the crack.

As I mentioned my stove has cracks on two more panels , so I will be looking for a complete scamol panels replacement set this summer.
I am not sure how expensive this could be. That's why I am trying to find out information about using alternatives like M-boards.

I like the stove. I burn every day (all day) in the winter and it's my sole source of heat for a 1250 sq ft. ranch style 3br 2ba house.

I've done some research. You can get original Skamol panels from Jotul/Krog Iversen/via your local SCAN dealer. You can also get them in large 3ft. pieces. They come in many different densities. I'm still trying to find out what the exact density is in the SCAN60 panels. I'm pretty sure it's
not the most dense available. So, I bought some VIP-900 1" (High density) and I used my router to shave off 3/16", and I'm going to fabricate the
#6 & 8 panels out of VIP-900. I'm hoping that these will not crack.

• V-1100 (375)
• V-1100 (475)
• V-1100 (600)
• V-1100 (700)
• VIP-900 / Skamolex HD
• VIP-12

It is possible that we'll see a recall on the SCAN60/61 to fix this issue permanently. Those pins don't plug into the side of the stove, like one
of the previous posts mentioned. They are only held in by #6 & #8 Skamol and they have most of the weight of the top baffle/damper piece,
which is one of the larger pieces, if not the largest. It's bad design. A guy that I talked to at Skamol thought so too.

Chances are very good, that if you do replace those with original pieces, they will crack again right where the pins are.

- Red

 

[dfloeter]

Resurrecting an older train of thought. Following the above ideas I bought a sheet of 1 inch material from Skyline Components and made replacements for the two top pieces with drilled pin holes. Comparing to Skamol, this material is lighter, softer and therefore easier to work with but substantially less durable. Maybe due to the softness this stuff won't be as brittle? Time will tell.

I do wonder you Redtail came out with his VIP-900. My sheet of 1x24x36 only cost about $100 with shipping versus $800 for the full set of panels from Jotul via my dealer so I felt this was worth the risk. Time will tell.

 

[Kiwi Firemaster]

A couple of options from my R&D. Castable ceramics do come in insulating types. I paid $85 for 25 Kg (55lb) here in New Zealand but I would be you could get it cheaper in the US. If going the kaowool option you can buy a hardener for the wool itself. If going that route or using the panel I would suggest troweling on a thick layer of refractory mortar to increase the durability. Just give the mortar plenty of time to dry.

 

[dfloeter]

Thanks KF. I will look into skim coating with the appropriate mortar. So far so good with what I have done but the truly weak part is depending on the board to support the pins. If the mortar is solid and strong enough, I could drill out the pin holes oversized and cast holes within the area. With the new material being 1/4" thicker than the original Skamol, I did have to rip a bit off both ends of the two horizontal pieces to fit between the new. The Skamol cut very easily on the table saw. The Skyline Compononents board cut like butter with a Japanese pull saw and a coping saw for the pipe clearance slots. Pretty simple.