Seasoning enamel insert

[wizards8507]

Hello again and thank you all for being so helpful with past threads. Our HI300 was installed yesterday and I'm looking for some operational guidance as I break it in, as the manual seems to be contradictory in places. On one hand, I'm supposed to take a few days to burn "moderate" fires in order to season the cast iron and enamel. On the other hand, I'm supposed to burn with the damper rod wide open for 45 minutes every morning to prevent creosote buildup. Is there a fine line I'm trying to walk these first few days, or do I just need to accept that the seasoning process requires a burning methodology that wouldn't otherwise be a best practice when it comes to creosote?

 

[rwhite]

Follow the "break in" instructions for a few days then move to regular operations.

 

[jatoxico]

Yes ^. Creosote forms when the flue gases cool and condense in the system so the more heat you send up the flue the less likely you are to create creosote. When the primary is open, the max amount of air is being let into the stove which sends more heat up the chimney.

For break in build small airy fires to keep overall temps moderate and let a lot of heat up and out by keeping the primary air more open than not. Once broken in, reducing the primary air during normal operation will cause the stove itself to retain more heat and consume less wood. But this sends less up the chimney which increases the chance of creating creosote in the flue. So the manual is suggesting running with the primary open for awhile to heat up the flue and to burn off any creosote formed when the primary was shut.

That's all well and good but the best way is to always use dry wood and not damper down the fire excessively. That way you don't create too much creosote in the first place. It's a balancing act that changes with weather conditions and other factors. If you don't have one get a thermometer so you can monitor your stove top temp.