Semi-newbie upgrading from a "Franklin style" stove

[PDeck]

Hi everyone. I just joined the forum but have been reading tons of threads the last few months about pretty much anything and everything.

I'll try to be as descriptive as I can here without dragging on too much. I know the more info I give the more you can give in return.

I live in a ranch house with a finished basement (1600 sq ft each floor). My basement is where my wood stove is and the living area is approximately 1000 square feet with about 6'6" ceilings. The house came with an old Montgomery ward/franklin/whatever cast iron wood stove. I know they arent efficient and can be unsafe. I have it professionally cleaned and inspected every year and it always passes with flying colors. I burn maybe 1-3 days a week but when I do have a fire I run it most of the day, we also use it when the power is out.
The chimney pipe is single wall 8" that runs mostly outside up my house, the top is higher than my ridge line but I dont know the exact length. I burn primarily ash with maybe a little maple mixed in, I cut and split my own wood.

Anyway this weekend I'm going to look at a Regency f2400m. I like the glass door and I like that it has a door that actually latches. I'm also looking forward to longer burn times and more efficient heat. If I had something a little newer and more efficient my wood burning frequency might increase.

I know this one has been beaten to death, but the stove has a 6" flue. If I change the pipe inside the house to 6" and instead of the 90° (see pics) change to 2-45° inside the house, will I be ok with the existing 8" run that's outside?

Also any thoughts on that model Regency? The seller said it doesn't have a blower which is actually what I wanted, something that will work just the same when the power is out. I'm sure it's an upgrade from what I've got but should I be looking for something else?

Thanks everyone!

 

[begreen]

The 2400M should have 6" all the way according to the manual. Is that outdoor chimney made with class A chimney pipe or is it stove pipe instead? If stove pipe, it all needs to be replaced. The best installation will have 6" double-wall stove pipe and 6" class A chimney system going through the wall and up. The good news is that the hole through the wall is already 8" to accommodate the 6" class A chimney pipe as long as it is not triple-wall.

Using proper class A chimney will allow the chimney pipe to be much closer to the house (2"). That will reduce the long horizontal run which is another problem with the current installation.

Lastly, the 2400 is going to be more particular about burning fully seasoned wood. Feed it dry wood and you will have a nice fireview, clean glass, more heat burning less wood and a much cleaner flue.

 

[PDeck]

Thanks for the info. I was afraid I would need to do something like that. I dont know what the chimney is now, I'm assuming just stove pipe.
Unfortunately since it's not primary heat for us an entire chimney is not in the budget. I may just have to live with my current setup for a while longer.

 

[begreen]

The current setup is completely against code and uninsurable. It also looks like a creosote maker too. I am surprised that a sweep will work on it.

 

[bholler]

Hi everyone. I just joined the forum but have been reading tons of threads the last few months about pretty much anything and everything.

I'll try to be as descriptive as I can here without dragging on too much. I know the more info I give the more you can give in return.

I live in a ranch house with a finished basement (1600 sq ft each floor). My basement is where my wood stove is and the living area is approximately 1000 square feet with about 6'6" ceilings. The house came with an old Montgomery ward/franklin/whatever cast iron wood stove. I know they arent efficient and can be unsafe. I have it professionally cleaned and inspected every year and it always passes with flying colors. I burn maybe 1-3 days a week but when I do have a fire I run it most of the day, we also use it when the power is out.
The chimney pipe is single wall 8" that runs mostly outside up my house, the top is higher than my ridge line but I dont know the exact length. I burn primarily ash with maybe a little maple mixed in, I cut and split my own wood.

Anyway this weekend I'm going to look at a Regency f2400m. I like the glass door and I like that it has a door that actually latches. I'm also looking forward to longer burn times and more efficient heat. If I had something a little newer and more efficient my wood burning frequency might increase.

I know this one has been beaten to death, but the stove has a 6" flue. If I change the pipe inside the house to 6" and instead of the 90° (see pics) change to 2-45° inside the house, will I be ok with the existing 8" run that's outside?

Also any thoughts on that model Regency? The seller said it doesn't have a blower which is actually what I wanted, something that will work just the same when the power is out. I'm sure it's an upgrade from what I've got but should I be looking for something else?

Thanks everyone!

I am sorry to be so blunt but if your sweep passed that setup you need a new sweep

 

[bholler]

I would not work on that. Doing so would just open myself up to to much liability