Shelburne Help.

[tweakerdave]

I have a new Shelburne that I am having a slow burn issue.
I burn envi 8's exclusively.
I can't shut intake more than half way or I won't get any heat.
I tried to burn good seasoned wood in it and the only way I could get it to burn at a decent rate was to crack the ash pan. If I were to close the ash pan after it was going good the flames would die down to almost nothing.
Definitely an air intake issue.
I'm pulling a .10 on my Dwyer.
Everywhere I've read on here people are have the opposite problem. I thought maybe a tight house so left the window open for a bit with no flame Change .
Scratching my head on this one??

 

[begreen]

Can you describe the flue setup on this stove in detail?

 

[tweakerdave]

Can you describe the flue setup on this stove in detail?

Stove sits in front of stone fireplace like an insert.
Collar on back is horizontal. Then a 6in Tee. Appliance adapter. 6in SS liner that is about 17 up. Have a chimney cap that is 10 inches tall.
Does not share a flue.
Thanks

 

[Fsappo]

I've burned one with dry wood in a showroom, never tested the draft, but it was about 7' black pipe to the ceiling with 2-45s then about 10' of class A. Worked like every other decent EPA stove. Build a fire, get it to 5-600 surface temp, top her off, air on low and nice heat for 8 hours.

Depending on what your chimney is, you may need outside air. Cracking a window sometimes tells you whats going on, but I is not the same as hooking up and OAK.

 

[begreen]

Is there a connecting snout on the tee? If yes, does it pitch uphill toward the liner?

 

[Fsappo]

is it an outside chimney? Is the liner insulated? Does Tom Brady throw more than 2 INTS in the superbowl?

 

[Blue Mound]

We've had a Shelburne since November. I've noticed it's really sensitive to the amount of ash that's in the bottom. Once the ash level is about level with the door opening, it just doesn't seem to get enough air in there. Maybe try emptying it out, just leave a little bit in the bottom?

It also seems to throw twice as much heat out the front the moment I can get the air completely shut. Even the tiniest bit open, and it's not the same. Holding your hand in front of the glass, you can immediately feel the difference. I know you're having trouble getting even halfway shut, but if you can try running it with the air shut for a few minutes, see if it settles out.

And for what it's worth, ours is hooked up to maybe 12' of Class A, straight shot up.

We tried bio bricks in ours once (ECO bricks), and I was not impressed with the heat output.

 

[tweakerdave]

Is there a connecting snout on the tee? If yes, does it pitch uphill toward the liner?

No. Actually we shortened the snout on the tee to get it to sit back into the opening a bit.

 

[tweakerdave]

We've had a Shelburne since November. I've noticed it's really sensitive to the amount of ash that's in the bottom. Once the ash level is about level with the door opening, it just doesn't seem to get enough air in there. Maybe try emptying it out, just leave a little bit in the bottom?

It also seems to throw twice as much heat out the front the moment I can get the air completely shut. Even the tiniest bit open, and it's not the same. Holding your hand in front of the glass, you can immediately feel the difference. I know you're having trouble getting even halfway shut, but if you can try running it with the air shut for a few minutes, see if it settles out.

And for what it's worth, ours is hooked up to maybe 12' of Class A, straight shot up.

We tried bio bricks in ours once (ECO bricks), and I was not impressed with the heat output.

I'm not a

is it an outside chimney? Is the liner insulated? Does Tom Brady throw more than 2 INTS in the superbowl?

Yes ...No... and I. Don't care about sports.

 

[Warm_in_NH]

The only time I have any issues with mine is if I get into a run of less than ideal wood (the ones below the hole in the plastic, or something) and overload it on too little coals.

Your set-up sounds similar to mine, but I go out the wall into class A and straight up 12' from there with another 2' of dbl wall vertical inside, 9' of dbl horizontal and 2' of class A horizontal to the T.

Tough since your burning envi bricks, I have no experience to speak of with them. I know that good dry wood <20% in my set up has zero issues with the air being cut back, it'll draw secondaries, etc...

The factory, upon an inquiry that I had made, did say to never burn with the ash grate open, and obviously not the door either, not sure if that's affecting it. I don't ever open the grate and only use the pan as a bucket to carry the ashes that I shovel out of it outside.

I can only suggest getting some good dry wood. Buy a couple of bags of KD at the store, check it with a MM to make sure it's below 20%, and give that a try for a night, it is a wood stove after all. If you can run it with that, then you can isolate the source to a fuel issue, if not, then you may have other issues on hand, but that's the easiest place to start. This trick saved me a lot of trouble with the Oslo, thought the stove was the problem, turned out to be the fuel.

 

[DanCorcoran]

Mine goes straight up, 20' measured from the floor, so that must be about 16-17' from the back of the stove. With dry wood, I've never had a problem with draft (my chimney does conform to the 2'/10' rule above the roof).

I strongly urge you never to burn your stove with the ash grate open. You can severely damage the stove, to say nothing of danger to house and home (this is emphasized in the owner's manual as well).

 

[begreen]

That sure looks inviting and cozy Dan.

 

[tweakerdave]

Mine goes straight up, 20' measured from the floor, so that must be about 16-17' from the back of the stove. With dry wood, I've never had a problem with draft (my chimney does conform to the 2'/10' rule above the roof).

I strongly urge you never to burn your stove with the ash grate open. You can severely damage the stove, to say nothing of danger to house and home (this is emphasized in the owner's manual as well).

View attachment 152104

Nice Pic.
The ash pan open was only a test to see what was going on. I just put in 5 envi 8s with a 250 degress stove. Probably wont go over 400 to 450 with wide open air. If I did that with my Regency with a.06 draft I would send it to 600 no problem. I love the stove I just want to know why I cant get enough air into it. With a .10 draft I would think it would burn fast and hot. This stove has never been over 550 temp and I load this thing up pretty good. The second I start to close the air after about a half hour of wide open the temp barely climbs and the flames just die off. Everything indicates to not enough air. gonna try an outside air setup.

 

[begreen]

Any possibility of the liner having an air leak, tear in it or of being ovalized or badly dented?

 

[Warm_in_NH]

I wouldn't get hung up on the 550 temp, that's pretty hot for that stove, everyone I know with one seems to agree that they cruise low 450 ish, my oslo will run up by 600 all day long with crap wood.
The hearthstone is still throwing heat for hours after the last coal fades away but the oslo is stone cold.

 

[tweakerdave]

I wouldn't get hung up on the 550 temp, that's pretty hot for that stove, everyone I know with one seems to agree that they cruise low 450 ish, my oslo will run up by 600 all day long with crap wood.
The hearthstone is still throwing heat for hours after the last coal fades away but the oslo is stone cold.

here it is after 45 mins and wide open air from a 250 degree start

 

[tweakerdave]

Any possibility of the liner having an air leak, tear in it or of being ovalized or badly dented?

Any possibility of the liner having an air leak, tear in it or of being ovalized or badly dented?

Funny you Mention that. They did ovalize a bit to get through. Opening was 5.75 wide and the outside of the liner is about 6.25 or a bit larger. I do get .10 draft though. Hmmm now you got me thinking...

 

[jrems]

Hey Dave, the first thing to do is throw the Rutland thermometer in the trash. Mine was over 200 degrees off when it got hot. I'm in Danbury and work in Brookfield so I'm just a few minutes away from you. I have a shelburne too. This stove burns on the cooler side I have noticed. Cruising temps are for me are 400-500. It will throw a ton of heat at that temp. Let me know and I can stop by with some real wood and we can give it a try. Send me a message. -Jeremy

 

[DanCorcoran]

The hottest mine has gotten is 550, but that's with primary air mostly closed. Wide open, all the heat goes up the chimney. If there's a good bed of red coals, I can be on pure secondaries with primary fully closed in 45-60 minutes.

Also, the primary air enters in the center below the door, so I always keep the ashes clear in that area.

 

[cableman]

here it is after 45 mins and wide open air from a 250 degree start

Try shuting it down sooner but in very very small increments, the stove should get hotter. Ive noticed just moving the lever an 1/8th inch while im lowering it changes the flames behavior. 84 in stove room 74 next room up! Gonna get cold here tonight, im ready!

 

[tweakerdave]

Hey Dave, the first thing to do is throw the Rutland thermometer in the trash. Mine was over 200 degrees off when it got hot. I'm in Danbury and work in Brookfield so I'm just a few minutes away from you. I have a shelburne too. This stove burns on the cooler side I have noticed. Cruising temps are for me are 400-500. It will throw a ton of heat at that temp. Let me know and I can stop by with some real wood and we can give it a try. Send me a message. -Jeremy

I heard that these thermos were not that great but the guy threw it in when he delivered the stove. I had a Condar on my Regency and that was pretty close. I was actually looking at IR temp guns today to compare.
I tried really seasoned wood and got poor performance with this thing. No moisture Meter but it had been around cut and split for over 2 years.
Envi's are working ok but if I ever want to switch to wood It would be very frustrating the way this runs.
One of the guys here had a good point to go out and buy a few bundles of the kiln dried stuff to see if that makes a difference.

Thanks and maybe I'll take you up on your offer someday.
David

 

[tweakerdave]

Try shuting it down sooner but in very very small increments, the stove should get hotter. Ive noticed just moving the lever an 1/8th inch while im lowering it changes the flames behavior. 84 in stove room 74 next room up! Gonna get cold here tonight, im ready![/quote
gonna get real cold. Temps dropping like a rock plus the crazy wind. One good thing about this thing burning slow is I get long burn times.
I agree the air adjustment is very sensitive. If I have it around 375/ 400 and close it off 50% the stove Temps may rise 50 degrees but that's it and that's with a full stuffed firebox. Then it will drop off slowly. If I shut it down more it just chokes it too much.

 

[jrems]

I heard that these thermos were not that great but the guy threw it in when he delivered the stove. I had a Condar on my Regency and that was pretty close. I was actually looking at IR temp guns today to compare.
I tried really seasoned wood and got poor performance with this thing. No moisture Meter but it had been around cut and split for over 2 years.
Envi's are working ok but if I ever want to switch to wood It would be very frustrating the way this runs.
One of the guys here had a good point to go out and buy a few bundles of the kiln dried stuff to see if that makes a difference.

Thanks and maybe I'll take you up on your offer someday.
David

It does need very slow adjustments. As it's getting hot you need to slowly Cut the air back. I had crappy wood last year and used some blocks. They burned well mixed with wood but I did not like their performance by themselves. I'm using kiln dried now. If you need any pallets I have a ton at work. They are great to get the stove up to temp. If you get the stove up to 400 the blocks will burn much better. The blocks seem to be good on a hot bed of coals and cruising but it was hard to get the stove up to temp with them. A nice amount of pallet kindling can get the stove up to 400+ from room temp in 15-20 minutes.

 

[tweakerdave]

Where are you getting kiln dried cords?

 

[tweakerdave]

What are you guys using for temp gauges. Is condar still a good unit to buy?