Should I upgrade?

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It could be raised a little bit, but I would rather not bust out any more bricks than I have to. Yeah, the tree is actually touching the stove. I let the kids put it up. Haven't been using the VC, so no worries. Will be moving it this weekend, cold weather heading our way so I will be firing it up.
If it was me I would raise the thimble 3 feet or so and then your choices are open. I have done it many times it really isn't that big of a deal.
 
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If it was me I would raise the thimble 3 feet or so and then your choices are open. I have done it many times it usually isn't that big of a deal.
What he said! Your gama opens up to all stoves.
 
If it was me I would raise the thimble 3 feet or so and then your choices are open. I have done it many times it really isn't that big of a deal.
That would be the path if nothing would work with the current setup. Was trying to keep price down. There is a block off up closer to the ceiling where a stove pipe entered the chimney a looooong time ago, but I think its too close to the ceiling. What is the common clearance needed from pipe to ceiling?
 
That would be the path if nothing would work with the current setup. Was trying to keep price down. There is a block off up closer to the ceiling where a stove pipe entered the chimney a looooong time ago, but I think its too close to the ceiling. What is the common clearance needed from pipe to ceiling?
18" I would just cut a new hole in 2 to 3 feet down from the ceiling unhook the tee about pull the liner up and hook it back up. Then close the lower hole.
 
If there's a change in political parties in D.C. come 2020 and a "Green Deal" implemented, I wouldn't be surprised if the Feds start doing some energy related rebates again, like was done 10 or so years ago.

Slowly buying your freedom from you with those carrots. The green new deal will ban all stoves eventually.
 
Slowly buying your freedom from you with those carrots. The green new deal will ban all stoves eventually.
No it will not
 
That would be the path if nothing would work with the current setup. Was trying to keep price down. There is a block off up closer to the ceiling where a stove pipe entered the chimney a looooong time ago, but I think its too close to the ceiling. What is the common clearance needed from pipe to ceiling?
You can use shielding to reduce ceiling clearance, but the setup you have now is nice..no pipe to look at. But if you decide to go up to the thimble, you could get painted pipe.
I like the woodstocks I've run..solid engineering and build quality. But there are also some non-cat options that rear-vent..cast iron or plate-steel Jotuls, for starters..
What is the distance from top of hearth surface to center of thimble?
Did you measure this yet? If you're lucky like I was with the Keystone and Dutchwest 2460, the rear-vent flue centerline is the same height.
 
You can use shielding to reduce ceiling clearance, but the setup you have now is nice..no pipe to look at. But if you decide to go up to the thimble, you could get painted pipe.
I like the woodstocks I've run..solid engineering and build quality. But there are also some non-cat options that rear-vent..cast iron or plate-steel Jotuls, for starters..
Did you measure this yet? If you're lucky like I was with the Keystone and Dutchwest 2460, the rear-vent flue centerline is the same height.
It's 29" up to center. The hole is quite big so i could go up or down a couple inches. I also like the look of no pipe.
 
That would be the path if nothing would work with the current setup. Was trying to keep price down. There is a block off up closer to the ceiling where a stove pipe entered the chimney a looooong time ago, but I think its too close to the ceiling. What is the common clearance needed from pipe to ceiling?
18" for single-wall but double-wall ceiling clearance can be 6-9" depending on the brand. What is the current distance from the top of the old upper thimble?
 
18" for single-wall but double-wall ceiling clearance can be 6-9" depending on the brand. What is the current distance from the top of the old upper thimble?
10" from ceiling.
 
It's 29" up to center. The hole is quite big so i could go up or down a couple inches. I also like the look of no pipe.
Sounds like you have leeway to work with. I think you could do a double-elbow jog with elbows to offset up to the hole, if the flue outlet of your chosen stove was too low. However, that would push the stove out further into the room, and it doesn't look like you want that...and it wouldn't look as clean.
What size stove do you need? What is your square footage and room layout? Open layout where it's easier to move heat?
 
Sounds like you have leeway to work with. I think you could do a double-elbow jog with elbows to offset up to the hole, if the flue outlet of your chosen stove was too low. However, that would push the stove out further into the room, and it doesn't look like you want that...and it wouldn't look as clean.
What size stove do you need? What is your square footage and room layout? Open layout where it's easier to move heat?
Would like one that's rated for 1500-2000 sqft. It is in one of 2 living rooms, area is open between the 2 living rooms and dining room. Not needed for main heat source, just to supplement the wood furnace(house is long and skinny).
 
(house is long and skinny).
Have you read about moving heat to areas away from the stove with small 8" fans on the floor in hallways or whatever, moving cool, dense air along the floors and into the doorway of the stove room, enhancing the natural convection loop that is already trying to move heat out of the stove room? You might be surprised how much heat you can move, and you might be able to cut furnace use quite a bit, which may save quite a bit of wood..
 
BTW, where in WI are you? My bro and SIL are in Hubertus, and also heat with wood. ==c My Buddies from my days in WI are around the Milw, Oconomowoc and Madison areas.
 
10" from ceiling.
Then double-wall connector would work. The lower hole would need to be bricked closed. Is there a stainless liner in the chimney? If not what is the tile liner size?
 
BTW, where in WI are you? My bro and SIL are in Hubertus, and also heat with wood. ==c My Buddies from my days in WI are around the Milw, Oconomowoc and Madison areas.
Southern wi just south of madison.
 
Then double-wall connector would work. The lower hole would need to be bricked closed. Is there a stainless liner in the chimney? If not what is the tile liner size?
Currently has 8" steel. If i went with a top vent flue stove i plan to replace it.
 
Currently has 8" steel. If i went with a top vent flue stove i plan to replace it.
You'll need an easy-breathing stove if you wanna try to get away with leaving the 8" in there. The Keystone actually has a 7" flue outlet but breathes well on the 7-6" adapter on a 6" liner at 16' stack height. I don't know if the Keystone or Fireview would be big enough for your space. The WS hybrids would, but I don't know how well they breathe..or other rear-vent stoves for that matter.
 
I think the 8" won't pull as well as 6" would.
 
If it's not urgent and money is an issue, you may want to bid your time and wait for a wood stove replacement program. For example, an old one in WI is mentioned at: https://www.gagnonclayproducts.com/introducing-the-wisconsin-wood-stove-exchange-program/ . If there's a change in political parties in D.C. come 2020 and a "Green Deal" implemented, I wouldn't be surprised if the Feds start doing some energy related rebates again, like was done 10 or so years ago.

I used a California program to replace my 1980s VC Vigilant, but I had to wait a few years for a worthwhile program to come around.

That said, the old Vigilant could certainly crank out the heat (and eat wood), if I needed to warm the house up quickly. Not so much with the more wood-efficient new stove.
Been doing some thinking, leaning towards the top flue stoves due to limited rear flue options. Will upgrade the chimney to 6" liner. Saw the Myriad 2, thinking that will fit the bill. On sale now for $711. Cant beat that!
 
The Myriad II is the unshielded model. It will definitely put out some heat. Watch the clearance requirements.
 
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The Myriad II is the unshielded model. It will definitely put out some heat. Watch the clearance requirements.
Got plenty of room all around. Also like the N-S loading.