Single wall snap-lock pipe question.

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Nov 19, 2015
58
Salem, NY
For those of you who choose welded or double wall this may seem like a foolish question. I'm looking to hear primarily from those who use single wall snap-lock pipe.
I've purchased a 2' length and a 1' slip connector to cover about 29". The slip connector is labeled to fit inside the pipe, but it seems like the snap lock will leave a significant gap on both sides of the seam. What do you do to smooth out the snap-lock seam and reduce leaks? I've read some people recommend a screw in the seam somewhere in the middle of the pipe, which I think is more as insurance against a blowout. I've also seen recommendations to crimp the ends of the seam with a pair of pliers (I'm thinking toothless parallel jaws would be best). I'd love to hear what everyone else does for a smooth install and to reduce the amount of furnace cement, high temp sealer, goop required.
Also, I'd like to know if a screw in the slip connector is reccommended. I have a drip tee on the back of the stove and an elbow at the thimble, so it's a pretty rigid install. Do I need a screw to lock the telescoping section?
 
You will have a gap at the slip, that's one reason most won't use it. You also shouldn't need cement in the joint. Kinda defeats the purpose of having a slip doesn't it?
 
Mines all snap lock with no telescoping section. It was a nightmare making it all fit right but it just takes time. I have zero gaps anywhere. Bend the tubed once put together as close to round as possible. I put a screw just off seam where it looked like I had a 1/8 " gap and it closed right up. I used no cement at all and get no smoke or air drawing in with plenty of updraft.

[Hearth.com] Single wall snap-lock pipe question.
[Hearth.com] Single wall snap-lock pipe question.[Hearth.com] Single wall snap-lock pipe question.
[Hearth.com] Single wall snap-lock pipe question.

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I picked up a latex sealing product from Rutland rated for 800F and supposedly removable. Hadn't decided if I was going to try putting it on the outside of the slip, or just the crimped joints. Maybe if the pipe fits together well I'll return the sealant.
Perhaps I should use one screw near the seam to lock the slip connector and close whatever gap appears?
 
I used the cheap single wall snap lock in the barn. The slip section as well as every other joint, has the issue of a gap where the snap lok is. I fingered some regular hardening stove cement over the gap and yes, screw the slip section at the overlap to secure it from slipping. Every joint gets three screws. None of the screws were near the snap lok seam.
 
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