This is a follow up on previous thread (2009) about my Energy Harvesters cast iron stove.
Previous thread:
Hi Ratman,
I've burned my Energy Harvesters Stove hard every winter since 1983 to heat my basement workshop and keep the floor upstairs warm so my Sweeties toes don't turn blue. I guess I burned it too hard because the baffle began to disintegrate and a piece fell off this past winter. Its surface, exposed to direct flame, looks a little like a miniature dried up salt pan. Didn't know cast iron could do that. Anyway, I want to replace the baffle, ideally with an identical part, but if not then with a steel frame to support split firebrick (suggestion made by a moderator on an earlier thread). You mentioned a stove re-builder - could you give me a contact name? Thanks a lot for the link to the patent.
Fred
Update: I really liked that stove and didn't want to replace it. I was lucky to find an identical stove for sale in another state and to avoid shipping charges on 220 lbs, had the seller send only the baffle which fit after a bit of filing. Long story short - it's been fine since then. I've been careful not to over-fire but recently the stove turned into a roarer with the same inlet air settings that hadn't been changed for maybe a decade. Reduced the primary air inlet and still too fierce. Replacing the door gasket didn't help either. Checked the bottom for burn-through but didn't see any. So finally thought about the wood. (Aside: Since my sweety died I've been spending most of my winter hours in the shop and being less cold tolerant with every passing year have been burning more.) So last year I stored an additional cord in the basement to be sure it was really dry for this year. Eureka! That wood (oak) was light and as dry as HD lumber. Lesson learned - just hope I haven't destroyed another baffle.
Be well, Fred
Previous thread:
Hi Ratman,
I've burned my Energy Harvesters Stove hard every winter since 1983 to heat my basement workshop and keep the floor upstairs warm so my Sweeties toes don't turn blue. I guess I burned it too hard because the baffle began to disintegrate and a piece fell off this past winter. Its surface, exposed to direct flame, looks a little like a miniature dried up salt pan. Didn't know cast iron could do that. Anyway, I want to replace the baffle, ideally with an identical part, but if not then with a steel frame to support split firebrick (suggestion made by a moderator on an earlier thread). You mentioned a stove re-builder - could you give me a contact name? Thanks a lot for the link to the patent.
Fred
Update: I really liked that stove and didn't want to replace it. I was lucky to find an identical stove for sale in another state and to avoid shipping charges on 220 lbs, had the seller send only the baffle which fit after a bit of filing. Long story short - it's been fine since then. I've been careful not to over-fire but recently the stove turned into a roarer with the same inlet air settings that hadn't been changed for maybe a decade. Reduced the primary air inlet and still too fierce. Replacing the door gasket didn't help either. Checked the bottom for burn-through but didn't see any. So finally thought about the wood. (Aside: Since my sweety died I've been spending most of my winter hours in the shop and being less cold tolerant with every passing year have been burning more.) So last year I stored an additional cord in the basement to be sure it was really dry for this year. Eureka! That wood (oak) was light and as dry as HD lumber. Lesson learned - just hope I haven't destroyed another baffle.
Be well, Fred
