So, BKs can't be run on high continuously?

[shredit]

New owner to a BKP here. Have never owned a catalytic stove before this one. I didn't read anything in the manual about not keeping the thermostat on high...but I've been reading quite a bit on here about only keeping it on high for those first 20-30 minutes after a reload (which the book does say to do). Where I live winters are long and cold and the stove is in a basement of an old house with poor insulation so I need the stove to be as hot as possible, but don't want to damage it. Is the high setting ONLY for reloading, or can the stove be run on high continuously?

 

[Blazing]

New owner to a BKP here. Have never owned a catalytic stove before this one. I didn't read anything in the manual about not keeping the thermostat on high...but I've been reading quite a bit on here about only keeping it on high for those first 20-30 minutes after a reload (which the book does say to do). Where I live winters are long and cold and the stove is in a basement of an old house with poor insulation so I need the stove to be as hot as possible, but don't want to damage it. Is the high setting ONLY for reloading, or can the stove be run on high continuously?

Make sure your door gasket won't let a dollar bill slip out check all four sides. If it holds turn it on high and walk away it will do the rest. Oh make sure your bypass is closed as well .

 

[kennyp2339]

You can run that stove on high as long as you like, we have members here from Alaska that do exactly that when there temps go into the negative 30's.
Just like any other woodstove you will need to check you gaskets to make sure they have a good seal, doing the dollar bill test is what is recommended.
Also if you need a ton of heat in a basement setting and your considering a princess or king, buy the blower and convection deck, turn the stove from more of a radiant stove (object heater) to a convective stove (air heater). then work on your insulation inside your home.
The BK stoves are a hardy bunch of stove, they are no different than any other unit as far as strength, if anything they are designed better due to a heavy duty heat shield to protect the cat from direct flame impingement and a t-state to keep the internals from warping, even when running high, the t-state will click over and close the air down right at the over fire threshold, thus making it safer to operate imo.

 

[shredit]

Thanks for the replies. I do have the fan system going. I was worried because I had an englander 30 and the inside was warping/coming apart at the seams. I'm already burning about 1/3 the amount of wood I was with the englander and getting the same heat but wanted to make sure I'm not damaging a brand new (expensive) stove. Thanks!

As for insulation, maybe we can open this up for discussion on that. It's a rental house that's over 70 years old. Basement is unfisnished. Stove is only a couple feet from the electric furnace. There are oversized vents cut in the floor that have no ductwork, just allows the heat from the woodstove to rise,but there is also an electric furnace with a duct work system. The house is on the historical register so I can not do any modifications. There was an existing stove hookup in the basement so I had to buy a new stove and tie into that. This house with no stove burning costs about 400 a month to heat (because of the poor insulation/windows/etc). Let me know if there's any ideas on more efficient heating besides just cranking the stove next to the furnace with the convection fan blowing towards the rest of the basement

 

[kennyp2339]

Wood furnace ducted into the existing duct work would probably be your best solution

 

[DBoon]

If you have single-pane windows, then likely 30-50% of your heat loss is through the windows. Anything that you can do (exterior storms, interior plastic) to at least get the R-value of the windows up will show benefits pretty quickly.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Weather concrete or block walls in the basement the walls are sucking all the heat out. If you can find a way to temporarily insulate the basement walls this would help. Insulation board and plywood just tacked in place should do it. That way you can remove it when you move. Just because you "can" run your stove on high continually doesn't mean you should.

 

[webby3650]

Wood furnace ducted into the existing duct work would probably be your best solution

I have a similar situation with a much newer home and good insulation. Still, the princess had to run on full blast all the time. That ain’t gonna cut it, it was obvious.. so we are using the wood furnace that was here when we bought the place. It does well. The 2 year old princess is just siting there lookin pretty.

 

[Poindexter]

I am one of the ones running my Ashford 30 on high from mid November to mid February most seasons. As long as your gasket seals are good it's no problem. If your gasket seals aren't good you will know pretty quick.

 

[shredit]

What exactly is the dollar bill test? And how will I know if I don't have a good seal?

Unfortunately I can't tie a wood furnace into the duct work. I will definitely buy some plastic and look at insulating the concrete as well. Stove seems to be doing the trick. Thermostat set on 68 but house is at 72

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Put a dollar bill between the door and stove. You shouldn't be able to pull the dollar out if it's a good seal. If the dollar pulls out easily then you should replace the gasket or adjust your door handle. Test in several different spots.

 

[Pertzbro]

Put a dollar bill between the door and stove. You shouldn't be able to pull the dollar out if it's a good seal. If the dollar pulls out easily then you should replace the gasket or adjust your door handle. Test in several different spots.

Do the dollar bill test on a cold stove.