So I need an expert Grandma Fisher rear to top conversion

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Boatracer77

New Member
Nov 13, 2023
3
Georgia
Hello, and thankful for this forum and the people who are the brain trust here.

I have a shop that is 32x32 with open truss, no insulation, 10’ to bottom of truss from concrete floor, 6 feet from top of truss to roof, and I figure another 4’ to the cap of my chimney from a Grandma Fisher that appears in great condition .

Only problem is I want to top discharge it. I can handle the plasma cutting and 3” in and 3” out on the 8” sleeve (where do you buy the sleeve? or I have to roll one), but question is, should I completely remove the old sleeve when I close that off?

And, there is a deflector inside the stove that directed flame away from inside rear exit flange, but can I weld a baffle to inside as a flame shield, and what shape should it be? All the way across or just enough to shield the flame to the top flange/exit?

any advice appreciated

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BTW, straight 8” chimney, single wall, 20’ from stove to spark arrestor cap on top of roof. It will not be near anything flamable, and bought proper (I think) roof flashing and skirts.

I should also say that I want top exit because i want chimney to sit on top so it’s solid, and I got great deal on parts at Northern Tool online.

I’m the new guy so any advice is appreciated!
 
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Curious as to why you are looking to do this. These stoves perform well, as is.
 
It’s in the middle of my shop. I want a clean install (hate the elbow out back), also for structural integrity of the chimney stack.
 
It’s in the middle of my shop. I want a clean install (hate the elbow out back), also for structural integrity of the chimney stack.
It should have a tee on the back and have connector pipe hung from the chimney which is supported by the roof
 
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This stove is more efficient rear vented.

The stove doesn’t support chimney.

A Tee on the back with cap provides a clean out.

Yes, you should baffle it, but not welded in. Start here;