Step By Step instructions to Building your own Fisher Style Home Made wood/ cook stove.
Before you go any further if this stove is going to be in a residence you may want to check with your insurance to make sure they will still cover you with a homemade stove installed. Some will some will not with out a UL tag.
All the following work needs to be done by an experienced welder who knows proper welding and cutting techniques and have and use all the required safety equipment.
The photographs are not showing building a complete stove, they are staged to show each step clearer.
1. First you need to decide the size stove you need. How many square ft. are you wanting to heat? Size does matter and to big of a stove is not practical. It causes you to run the stove choked down causing it not to burn clean and producing creosote.
a. Double door baby style about 1500 square ft.
b. Double door Grandma style about 1750 square ft
c. Double door Grandpa Style about 2500 Square ft
d. Double door Great Gma Style about 3000 Square ft.
2. Once you have determined the size you will have to get the appropriate parts made for the stove you want. Parts lists are available for each model stove.
3. Take the top and ash pan flat steel to a fabrication shop probably where you buy the metal and let them bend a top and ash pan with the provided dimensions.
4. First thing that is best to do is to get everything prepped to build your stove. It will make it easier.
5. Cut the legs there should be 2 -24” and 2- 30” legs using the 3/16 x 1 ½ x 1 ½ angle iron.
6. Cut the 3 brick clips and 2 baffle supports using the same angle iron.
7. Assemble the front. Pay special attention to keeping this flat, it will make the final appearance of your work look a lot nicer.
a. On a flat welding table, clamp the bottom piece of the front. (if the parts for your stove show 2 widths use the wider one on the bottom)
b. Using a framing square clamp and tack both sides of the front.
c. Now tack the top. Check to see that the total width of the front is the same width of the bottom.
d. Turn the front over and weld up solid the front on both sides.
e. On one side grind the weld smooth. Do not over grind for this is the side that will be out and visible.
f. Using the 1” x1/2” channel cut the appropriate channel front. It will need to be cut on a 45 degree angle so it will allow the door to shut. Also you will want to tack the front together on the inside of the channel taking care to keep the front square.
8. The sides will now need to be prepared, this is the one step where people have the hardest time and make the most mistakes. Locate the 2 sides of your stove. Lay one on the welding table with height of the side going away from you. This will be 24” on all the stoves but the smallest Double door stove.
9. Get the top that has been bent and place this on the side like it will be assembled. Let the back of the top stick over the side ¾ - 1”, this should allow about 2”- 21/2” sticking out in front. The top of the 24” side should be under the top as it will be welded. Now it is time to check and mark the sides for cutting. If the top is bent correctly this is not a problem. The top ledge and bottom ledge should be parallel. If not you will need to adjust them now. The lower shelf should me marked as the finish product will be. If the top is not exact do not worry about it. But you will need clamps latter on when the top is installed to for a proper fit.
10. When you know it is right cut the sides with a torch. Then grind the slag smooth. Repeat other side taking care to make sure the over lap for the front is the same for both sides so it will be easier to weld later.
11. Set all the parts to the side and we are now ready to start assembly.
12. First grind the welding table using a grinder and get all the slag off so everything sits flat. This will also prevent the top from getting scratched when it is turned upside down. The welding table needs to be flat for the next steps to work and your final product to look the best.
13. take 2 shims ¼” and place them on the welding table. Then place the bottom on these shims. You want the bottom placed like you are looking at the stove. You can determine this by the depth of the sides.
14. Now take the back of the stove and set it on the welding table and slide it to the bottom they will be the same width. The height is the same as the sides. Tack the back to the bottom in 2 spots do not over tack.
15. Take the left side torched piece towards you, and split the difference at the bottom with the back this allows for some to stick out front making the corner welds easier. Tack the side in one spot to the bottom and towards the rear. Tacking to close to the front makes installing the front difficult. Repeat this for the Right side.
16. At this time you can straighten the back to fit the sides, if the sides and back are on a flat table just move in place for the next step.
17. Now you can take the back and tack the back and the sides together 2”-3” down from the top edge. Where the inside corners are formed in the back left and back right weld them up solid at this time.
18. Take 2 fire brick and stand them up in the back. Place the rear brick clip on the brick raise the clip ½” and slightly at an angle then tack. Repeat both sides.
19. If the surface of the sides that were torched are not even grind them smooth at this time. Wear hearing and eye protection
20. You may need to slide the stove to the front of the welding table at this point.
21. Get the front you have pre assembled and with the ground side towards you tack the front to the sides taking care not to let the front stick up higher than the sides.
22. Take the baffle and raise it above the rear brick clip 1 ½” and point it toward the corner in the top where the lower shelf will be.
23. On both sides of the baffle tack on the 2 clips and weld the baffle, the clips and brick clips to the stove a series of 2” welds on the clips and baffle are adequate. At this time weld the front to the sides all the way to the bottom.
24. The channel front needs to be installed now. Take the channel and equally space it all the way around the front opening and tack it. Weld the sides and bottom of the channel to the front, do the welding inside the stove for a neater appearance and so it will not interfere with the door.
25. At this time check to see if all the steps have been completed.
26. Now set the top on the stove. Equally space the sides generally around 7/8” of an inch. Check the fit. If all is good or it can be clamped tack the top to the back of the stove, making sure the top is down on tight on the back.. Tack on the inside of the stove so it does not interfere with the legs later. If the top needs clamping now is the time to do it. Bring it down tight and tack.
27. Now turn the stove on its top, remove the spacers at this time and install the 2 -24” front legs tack to the top and to the bottom edge of the sides. Do not weld to the side or the front. Repeat for the 2- 30” rear legs.
28. Now weld the top continuous on all 4 sides and over the legs.
29. Weld the bottom on all 4 sides continuous and step up and weld the legs to the bottom edge of the sides and front or back.
30. With the stove still on its top reach inside the stove and weld the top to the back and sides to prevent leakage. Weld approximately 3” in each direction in all 4 corners.
31. Now weld the top of the door channel to the top of the front.
At this point you are done with the box.
Take extreme care and remove the stove from the welding table. It is best with 2 people.
Now we will start the final steps to finish the stove. These steps are for those who bought the doors, hinges and handles.
1. Get a 2x4 and lean the stove back to where the back of top is resting on the 2 x4. This will allow you to pick it up easier later.
2. Take 4 popsicle sticks or something similar and place in the 1” channel.
3. Now place the doors squaring them up where it will look the best and operate properly. It is best to push them to the sides and then bring them back in to allow for clearance so you will not have to adjust them later. You should have about a 1/8” crack between both the top surfaces of the door.
4. With the doors in place set the hinges on the front facing towards you under the door hinge. Cut if needed so they stick out no more than ¼” – 3/8”. This is for appearance only. Now with a soap stone mark the hole through the door onto the hinge. Mark each hinge and its location on the stove for they will probably all be slightly different.
5. Drill the hinges with a 3/8 drill bit.
6. Install the hinge pins through the door and through the hinge. Take care not to raise the door at the hinge. If it does grind the bottom of the hinge to fit and remain on the popsicle sticks. Check to see that the doors are still in even all the way around,
7. Tack the hinges to the stove front on the bottom of the hinges taking care to be sure they are perpendicular to the stove front.
8. Remove the doors and weld the hinges all the way around. Be sure not to build it up to much on top so it will not interfere with the door operation.
9. Reinstall the doors and install the ash pan under the door. Weld it directly to the front of the stove. Be sure to lower it enough that the door will clear it and it is parallel with the bottom of the doors. This is a final step and you will be looking at this every day.
10. Now take the left handle and install it through the door. Weld it to the stove using the same method used for the steel stove build it up on and over the handle and door . It is best for the handle to angle back about 45 degrees so the working handle matches and functions properly.
11. Where the right door is located go straight up to the top and mark the top with soapstone.
12. Open the doors and install the triangle piece to the door channel.
13. Install the long handle thought the door and place a ½” ID washer over the handle. Tack in 4 places around the handle and washer.
14. Set the stove back up and using a pipe and torch heat the long handle inside the stove until red and with the handle at a 45 degree angle to the right, bend the locking side of the handle up toward the top so it will lock onto the triangle piece welded to the channel. If you miss it reheat and do it again.
15. Now clean the door channel of oil and welds and install gasket cement and gasket. Shut the door and lock while it is wet so it fits to the door. You may need to bounce it on the gasket for a better fit. Open the doors and clean off the extra gasket cement.
16. If the stove is going to be top vent measure from the top to the back of the stove and add 3/8” and mark the top. Place your vent pipe on top and mark around it centered from side to side and on the first mark..
17. Torch the opening, take care not to over cut and make it harder to weld up.
18. Install the Pipe in the hole and tack it where it sticks up 1 ½” up from the top and weld it up.
19. Using a grinder and sander remove all sharp edges on the top, ash pan and hinges and any where else needed. Buff the top using a sander. Remove all slag from around the vent pipe and hinges for a better appearance. Carefully check the edges for they still can be sharp.
20. You can check the corners with air at this time at the top. If it leaks air it can leak smoke. If you hear air weld again until it stops.
21. Using a non oil base cleaner wipe the stove down to remove any oil that may be in the metal. For the best appearance sand blast but this option may not be available. 409 or fantastic works fine.
22. Brick the stove. Using stove brick 9”x 4 ½” x 1 ¼”. Install brick in the back first, then the sides and then the bottom. It looks better to stager your joints on the bottom but not important. It is not necessary for an extremely tight fit since the ash will fill any cracks on the first burn and you may have to replace brick one day. For best results leave 1” of ash in the bottom when cleaning out to protect the brick.
23. Paint the stove. Stove Bright paint is the best choice and it comes in many colors. On the first burn it will cure and produce an odor and smoke. It is best to burn it outside for the first burn or at least when you can open the doors. It will set off a smoke detector.
You have completed you stove.
The old clearances for this style stove were 36” from a combustible and a floor protector under it, extending past 8” on the sides and back and 16” in the front. Now it will be up to you to properly install this stove using a class A chimney and components. If the stove was constructed properly it will not give you any problems. Incorrect installations will be the main factor in any problems with any wood stove.
Items available for a limited time and at an additional cost.
1. Doors
2. handles
3. Hinges and hinge pins
4. Part sheets.
5. Sheets to bend the tops correct.
6. Brick (UPS does not work well with brick it needs to be put on a freight line)
7. Paint
8. Gasket and Cement
9. Full threaded bolts
Items you will need to find at a local wood stove shop
1. Spring handles for the doors.
2. Draft caps. The original stoves had 3” black pipe caps with a bolt welded inside. The problem with this is if it is not welded in the center it will be out of round, and not be in balance as it goes in or out.
3. If you can get the brick locally it would be better for you also.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Before you go any further if this stove is going to be in a residence you may want to check with your insurance to make sure they will still cover you with a homemade stove installed. Some will some will not with out a UL tag.
All the following work needs to be done by an experienced welder who knows proper welding and cutting techniques and have and use all the required safety equipment.
The photographs are not showing building a complete stove, they are staged to show each step clearer.
1. First you need to decide the size stove you need. How many square ft. are you wanting to heat? Size does matter and to big of a stove is not practical. It causes you to run the stove choked down causing it not to burn clean and producing creosote.
a. Double door baby style about 1500 square ft.
b. Double door Grandma style about 1750 square ft
c. Double door Grandpa Style about 2500 Square ft
d. Double door Great Gma Style about 3000 Square ft.
2. Once you have determined the size you will have to get the appropriate parts made for the stove you want. Parts lists are available for each model stove.
3. Take the top and ash pan flat steel to a fabrication shop probably where you buy the metal and let them bend a top and ash pan with the provided dimensions.
4. First thing that is best to do is to get everything prepped to build your stove. It will make it easier.
5. Cut the legs there should be 2 -24” and 2- 30” legs using the 3/16 x 1 ½ x 1 ½ angle iron.
6. Cut the 3 brick clips and 2 baffle supports using the same angle iron.
7. Assemble the front. Pay special attention to keeping this flat, it will make the final appearance of your work look a lot nicer.
a. On a flat welding table, clamp the bottom piece of the front. (if the parts for your stove show 2 widths use the wider one on the bottom)
b. Using a framing square clamp and tack both sides of the front.
c. Now tack the top. Check to see that the total width of the front is the same width of the bottom.
d. Turn the front over and weld up solid the front on both sides.
e. On one side grind the weld smooth. Do not over grind for this is the side that will be out and visible.
f. Using the 1” x1/2” channel cut the appropriate channel front. It will need to be cut on a 45 degree angle so it will allow the door to shut. Also you will want to tack the front together on the inside of the channel taking care to keep the front square.
8. The sides will now need to be prepared, this is the one step where people have the hardest time and make the most mistakes. Locate the 2 sides of your stove. Lay one on the welding table with height of the side going away from you. This will be 24” on all the stoves but the smallest Double door stove.
9. Get the top that has been bent and place this on the side like it will be assembled. Let the back of the top stick over the side ¾ - 1”, this should allow about 2”- 21/2” sticking out in front. The top of the 24” side should be under the top as it will be welded. Now it is time to check and mark the sides for cutting. If the top is bent correctly this is not a problem. The top ledge and bottom ledge should be parallel. If not you will need to adjust them now. The lower shelf should me marked as the finish product will be. If the top is not exact do not worry about it. But you will need clamps latter on when the top is installed to for a proper fit.
10. When you know it is right cut the sides with a torch. Then grind the slag smooth. Repeat other side taking care to make sure the over lap for the front is the same for both sides so it will be easier to weld later.
11. Set all the parts to the side and we are now ready to start assembly.
12. First grind the welding table using a grinder and get all the slag off so everything sits flat. This will also prevent the top from getting scratched when it is turned upside down. The welding table needs to be flat for the next steps to work and your final product to look the best.
13. take 2 shims ¼” and place them on the welding table. Then place the bottom on these shims. You want the bottom placed like you are looking at the stove. You can determine this by the depth of the sides.
14. Now take the back of the stove and set it on the welding table and slide it to the bottom they will be the same width. The height is the same as the sides. Tack the back to the bottom in 2 spots do not over tack.
15. Take the left side torched piece towards you, and split the difference at the bottom with the back this allows for some to stick out front making the corner welds easier. Tack the side in one spot to the bottom and towards the rear. Tacking to close to the front makes installing the front difficult. Repeat this for the Right side.
16. At this time you can straighten the back to fit the sides, if the sides and back are on a flat table just move in place for the next step.
17. Now you can take the back and tack the back and the sides together 2”-3” down from the top edge. Where the inside corners are formed in the back left and back right weld them up solid at this time.
18. Take 2 fire brick and stand them up in the back. Place the rear brick clip on the brick raise the clip ½” and slightly at an angle then tack. Repeat both sides.
19. If the surface of the sides that were torched are not even grind them smooth at this time. Wear hearing and eye protection
20. You may need to slide the stove to the front of the welding table at this point.
21. Get the front you have pre assembled and with the ground side towards you tack the front to the sides taking care not to let the front stick up higher than the sides.
22. Take the baffle and raise it above the rear brick clip 1 ½” and point it toward the corner in the top where the lower shelf will be.
23. On both sides of the baffle tack on the 2 clips and weld the baffle, the clips and brick clips to the stove a series of 2” welds on the clips and baffle are adequate. At this time weld the front to the sides all the way to the bottom.
24. The channel front needs to be installed now. Take the channel and equally space it all the way around the front opening and tack it. Weld the sides and bottom of the channel to the front, do the welding inside the stove for a neater appearance and so it will not interfere with the door.
25. At this time check to see if all the steps have been completed.
26. Now set the top on the stove. Equally space the sides generally around 7/8” of an inch. Check the fit. If all is good or it can be clamped tack the top to the back of the stove, making sure the top is down on tight on the back.. Tack on the inside of the stove so it does not interfere with the legs later. If the top needs clamping now is the time to do it. Bring it down tight and tack.
27. Now turn the stove on its top, remove the spacers at this time and install the 2 -24” front legs tack to the top and to the bottom edge of the sides. Do not weld to the side or the front. Repeat for the 2- 30” rear legs.
28. Now weld the top continuous on all 4 sides and over the legs.
29. Weld the bottom on all 4 sides continuous and step up and weld the legs to the bottom edge of the sides and front or back.
30. With the stove still on its top reach inside the stove and weld the top to the back and sides to prevent leakage. Weld approximately 3” in each direction in all 4 corners.
31. Now weld the top of the door channel to the top of the front.
At this point you are done with the box.
Take extreme care and remove the stove from the welding table. It is best with 2 people.
Now we will start the final steps to finish the stove. These steps are for those who bought the doors, hinges and handles.
1. Get a 2x4 and lean the stove back to where the back of top is resting on the 2 x4. This will allow you to pick it up easier later.
2. Take 4 popsicle sticks or something similar and place in the 1” channel.
3. Now place the doors squaring them up where it will look the best and operate properly. It is best to push them to the sides and then bring them back in to allow for clearance so you will not have to adjust them later. You should have about a 1/8” crack between both the top surfaces of the door.
4. With the doors in place set the hinges on the front facing towards you under the door hinge. Cut if needed so they stick out no more than ¼” – 3/8”. This is for appearance only. Now with a soap stone mark the hole through the door onto the hinge. Mark each hinge and its location on the stove for they will probably all be slightly different.
5. Drill the hinges with a 3/8 drill bit.
6. Install the hinge pins through the door and through the hinge. Take care not to raise the door at the hinge. If it does grind the bottom of the hinge to fit and remain on the popsicle sticks. Check to see that the doors are still in even all the way around,
7. Tack the hinges to the stove front on the bottom of the hinges taking care to be sure they are perpendicular to the stove front.
8. Remove the doors and weld the hinges all the way around. Be sure not to build it up to much on top so it will not interfere with the door operation.
9. Reinstall the doors and install the ash pan under the door. Weld it directly to the front of the stove. Be sure to lower it enough that the door will clear it and it is parallel with the bottom of the doors. This is a final step and you will be looking at this every day.
10. Now take the left handle and install it through the door. Weld it to the stove using the same method used for the steel stove build it up on and over the handle and door . It is best for the handle to angle back about 45 degrees so the working handle matches and functions properly.
11. Where the right door is located go straight up to the top and mark the top with soapstone.
12. Open the doors and install the triangle piece to the door channel.
13. Install the long handle thought the door and place a ½” ID washer over the handle. Tack in 4 places around the handle and washer.
14. Set the stove back up and using a pipe and torch heat the long handle inside the stove until red and with the handle at a 45 degree angle to the right, bend the locking side of the handle up toward the top so it will lock onto the triangle piece welded to the channel. If you miss it reheat and do it again.
15. Now clean the door channel of oil and welds and install gasket cement and gasket. Shut the door and lock while it is wet so it fits to the door. You may need to bounce it on the gasket for a better fit. Open the doors and clean off the extra gasket cement.
16. If the stove is going to be top vent measure from the top to the back of the stove and add 3/8” and mark the top. Place your vent pipe on top and mark around it centered from side to side and on the first mark..
17. Torch the opening, take care not to over cut and make it harder to weld up.
18. Install the Pipe in the hole and tack it where it sticks up 1 ½” up from the top and weld it up.
19. Using a grinder and sander remove all sharp edges on the top, ash pan and hinges and any where else needed. Buff the top using a sander. Remove all slag from around the vent pipe and hinges for a better appearance. Carefully check the edges for they still can be sharp.
20. You can check the corners with air at this time at the top. If it leaks air it can leak smoke. If you hear air weld again until it stops.
21. Using a non oil base cleaner wipe the stove down to remove any oil that may be in the metal. For the best appearance sand blast but this option may not be available. 409 or fantastic works fine.
22. Brick the stove. Using stove brick 9”x 4 ½” x 1 ¼”. Install brick in the back first, then the sides and then the bottom. It looks better to stager your joints on the bottom but not important. It is not necessary for an extremely tight fit since the ash will fill any cracks on the first burn and you may have to replace brick one day. For best results leave 1” of ash in the bottom when cleaning out to protect the brick.
23. Paint the stove. Stove Bright paint is the best choice and it comes in many colors. On the first burn it will cure and produce an odor and smoke. It is best to burn it outside for the first burn or at least when you can open the doors. It will set off a smoke detector.
You have completed you stove.
The old clearances for this style stove were 36” from a combustible and a floor protector under it, extending past 8” on the sides and back and 16” in the front. Now it will be up to you to properly install this stove using a class A chimney and components. If the stove was constructed properly it will not give you any problems. Incorrect installations will be the main factor in any problems with any wood stove.
Items available for a limited time and at an additional cost.
1. Doors
2. handles
3. Hinges and hinge pins
4. Part sheets.
5. Sheets to bend the tops correct.
6. Brick (UPS does not work well with brick it needs to be put on a freight line)
7. Paint
8. Gasket and Cement
9. Full threaded bolts
Items you will need to find at a local wood stove shop
1. Spring handles for the doors.
2. Draft caps. The original stoves had 3” black pipe caps with a bolt welded inside. The problem with this is if it is not welded in the center it will be out of round, and not be in balance as it goes in or out.
3. If you can get the brick locally it would be better for you also.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
