Speaking of dampers--

[scotsman]

Ron at Woodstock thought I should have a damper so I bought one. Haven't put it in yet, but doesn't look like much of a challenge.

Question is: How do you use one? I know you use it to cut the exhaust stream down, but how does one coordinate that with the air intake at any given setting. After things get into cat range, I usually cut the air to about .75 to 1.0. Do I still do that? If so, how should the damper be positioned? As old as I am, I'm too young to remember about dampers and, although I remember seeing lots of them, have never used one. Ron said it would be worth around 100 degrees more heat output so I went with his recommendation. I'm still convinced that the stove is too small for my house, but it was the best I could do. Hoping to get the new, larger stove when it comes on the market.

'Preciate any input.

 

[NH_Wood]

I don't have a cat stove, but here's how I use my damper on the Mansfield. Damper wide open during cold start or after adding new wood to firebox. Allow wood to catch full flame for ~ 20 min, then I begin to work damper and primary air together. Typically I turn damper to 1/2 open, and primary air down to half open. If the fire begins to peter out and secondaries fail to keep rolling, I open the damper and primary air little by little till the fire and secondaries catch again (then repeat the above step after ~ 10 min more). If the secondaries roll nicely after the first reduction in damper and primary air, I wait about 10 more minutes, then I close the damper to ~ 4/5 closed and primary air to nearly closed and then monitor secondaries, and stack/stove temps. During warmer weather, I might need to open back up if the fire becomes too sluggish - during cold weather, usually set from there. Not sure if this helps, but thought I give you my 2 cents. Cheers and good luck!

 

[Rustaholic]

The ONLY time I use my damper is when the wind starts blowing too hard.
I have a good strong draft through the chimney in the center of my house.
I do not need the wind sucking all of the heat of my wood stove up the chimney.
So, I throttle the draft down a bit.
If the wind is blowing 20MPH or more I have to close the draft all the way.
It has holes in it that let plenty exhaust through.
I will not go away with the damper closed and I will not go to sleep with it closed.

 

[cmonSTART]

Leave the damper open and use the air control primarily. Once you have closed down the primary air and still need to control the stove, then start adjusting the damper. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Rustaholic]

Leave the damper open and use the air control primarily. Once you have closed down the primary air and still need to control the stove, then start adjusting the damper. Just my 2 cents.

That is not 2 cents worth.
That is Johnny-on-the-spot good advice.

 

[savageactor7]

95% of the time we burn WOT so the damper is open to load the stove. When the reloaded wood catches we'll close the damper 45°.

 

[burnt-out]

Leave the damper open and use the air control primarily. Once you have closed down the primary air and still need to control the stove, then start adjusting the damper. Just my 2 cents.

That is not 2 cents worth.
That is Johnny-on-the-spot good advice.

I agree. The only time I engage the damper is when the primary air is shut down and the stove continues to run away (too hot), which happens from time to time. If I didn't have a damper, I would have to sit back and watch my stove overheat (glow red), until the wood supply was nearly exhausted.

 

[scotsman]

Okay, thanks everyone! I'm startin' to get the idea! Maybe the draft is the deal. I can light a match and hold it 6" outside the open door on a cold stove with the damper wide open and the draft will suck the match out! When the wind starts blowin', it's even worse! 'Course, we don't consider we've got a wind until we have whitecaps on the toilet!

Slow1 was at my place yesterday for a visit with his family. Had a good visit. Looked at the stove and discussed fires, fuel (he wanted some of my old, dry cedar, and I offered all he wanted, but he wouldn't take any with him!), draft, hearth setup and plans, etc. Heck of a long way to come from Boston just to see a stove that is just like his, apparently. Didn't fire it up, 'cause the temps were in the 90s and the wind was blowing 20 to 30, which seems like 50-60 around here. They couldn't get over the wide open-ness! Wish it had been cold--we could have had MORE fun!

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Terry, I hope you and Slow1 had a good chat while he was there. Did you at least poke some wood chips into his pocket?


You probably recall using the damper in the older stoves. It is what I grew up with too. Basically, you have been given good information from other posters. I agree. This is how we used to do things when every stove had dampers in the flue plus various adjusters. Before opening the firebox door, open damper full along with draft contol. Wait a minute or two (depends on your conditions) then open the firebox door. Fill with wood and close door. When fire gets established. we used to turn the damper about half way along with closing the draft part way. Usually within 15-20 minutes we'd have the draft down to the low setting and then set the damper so it is only about 1/8 - 1/4 open. Naturally it still depends upon your wood, the weather and your flue. Also will depend if you have a full load or not.

Good luck.