Splitter lost power

[Mikeb543]

My 5hp gas splitter has lost power. Splitting fine and then it loses power and will not drive through the wood. The cylinder will come down against the wood and the engine revs but no power. I’ve replaced the pump and the control valve. Am I missing something or should I continue and replace the cylinder.

 

[Highbeam]

Hydraulic oil level and condition, hydro filter?

 

[Mikeb543]

Sorry. It has New fluid and filter also.

 

[maple1]

Kinda sounds like cylinder seals.

So new valve, pump & oil/filter. What prompted all of that work? The 'no power' thing? Or did the 'no power' thing just kind of start happening after something else was done or happened first?

 

[Mikeb543]

Kinda sounds like cylinder seals.

So new valve, pump & oil/filter. What prompted all of that work? The 'no power' thing? Or did the 'no power' thing just kind of start happening after something else was done or happened first?

 

[Mikeb543]

These were my attempts to solve the “no power” issue.

 

[maple1]

There's a way to check. I haven't done it before so not 100% I get this right - but, I think you'd extend the cylinder all the way (or against a round if it won't push into a round) & shut it down. Unhook the non-cylinder end of the hose that is hooked to the front of the cylinder (if you followed what i said there), and stick the hose end into a bucket. Start the engine & nudge the lever ahead (with the engine not revving very much). If the engine bogs or loads up & the cylinder doesn't move and nothing comes out the hose then your seals are OK. If it doesn't, and the cylinder doesn't move, and oil squirts into the bucket - then you have bad seals.

 

[salecker]

There's a way to check. I haven't done it before so not 100% I get this right - but, I think you'd extend the cylinder all the way (or against a round if it won't push into a round) & shut it down. Unhook the non-cylinder end of the hose that is hooked to the front of the cylinder (if you followed what i said there), and stick the hose end into a bucket. Start the engine & nudge the lever ahead (with the engine not revving very much). If the engine bogs or loads up & the cylinder doesn't move and nothing comes out the hose then your seals are OK. If it doesn't, and the cylinder doesn't move, and oil squirts into the bucket - then you have bad seals.

This test will tell you if your cylinder is leaking.You should also install a gauge to see what PSI the pump is putting out.

 

[VirginiaIron]

This test will tell you if your cylinder is leaking.You should also install a gauge to see what PSI the pump is putting out.

Yea, maybe the relief valve has gone weak. Is the control valve squealing?

Are you splitting a different species of wood?

Install the gage and adjust/replace if necessary.

 

[Corey]

Sheared pin or loose fitting on the engine/pump coupling? Low hydraulic fluid? Dirty pump inlet screen? ...just trying to throw a few ideas out.

 

[Knuckles75]

Stupid question, what type of coupler? I had a TB Woods and it looked fine, but when the ram hit the wood, it shifted and wasn't driving the pump anymore. When I reversed the ram, it caught just enough to draw the ram back, so with no load, it acted normal. Of course, I found this after spending $300 on a new ram... Lol...

 

[Corey]

There will typically be a 'lovejoy' or 'sure flex' coupling between engine (motor) and the pump... or similar configuration 'no-name' coupler. Of course, each side of the coupler typically has a set screw and keyway to keep it aligned and tight on the shaft. Keys can shear, screws can loosen, teeth can shear off the 'sureflex', etc - but the end result is that the splitter can move when the ram is free, but the moment actual pressure is needed, the coupling slips - even though it typically looks OK from the outside.