Squeaky door handle
- Thread starter Chumley
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil. -
Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
- Status
Carboncreator is right. I forgot about graphite even though I have a squeeze container which I use on an irregular basis. That might work. Also, did you check the High Temperature rating of the silver colored HighTemp anti-seize lubricant; the stuff which, after it is handled, makes you look like the Tin Man from Wizard Of Oz? That might also work.
Oh yes, I've had this problem on both doors. There is a spring in the handle which provides tension on the latch and holds the door closed tightly. The spring is a coil spring and rides on a washer right next to the cast iron door frame. The washer sometimes spins on the cast iron which doesn't squeak. When the washer refuses to spin against the cast iron then the coil spring must spin on the washer. The end of the coil spring sits on that washer, the end of the spring is cut such that it provides a point of screech on the washer.
Seriously, it's just like fingernails on a chalkboard. Cutting the coil spring like a valve spring on a car would have helped tremendously by providing a load across the whole washer.
You'll need to lube the interface so that you can make the washer spin again. I have dripped 90 weight gear oil into the washer with good success but messy and stinky. In desperation I have even dribbled spit into the interface and it worked surprisingly well with much less mess. Antiseize or other grease would work too but you'd need to diassemble the latch to introduce the lube.
Since the spring is compressed when the door is latched, be sure to apply this lube when the door is open and work it in.
Seriously, it's just like fingernails on a chalkboard. Cutting the coil spring like a valve spring on a car would have helped tremendously by providing a load across the whole washer.
You'll need to lube the interface so that you can make the washer spin again. I have dripped 90 weight gear oil into the washer with good success but messy and stinky. In desperation I have even dribbled spit into the interface and it worked surprisingly well with much less mess. Antiseize or other grease would work too but you'd need to diassemble the latch to introduce the lube.
Since the spring is compressed when the door is latched, be sure to apply this lube when the door is open and work it in.
So, it wasn't just my door. Took it as long as I could and then took the screw out, took handle off and, :red: sprayed some PAM on it. We'll that's what was handy and it's worked so far.
Chumley said:
Chumley, don't know if it was a good idea, but it was the only idea I had at the time. Maybe that stuff really is an all purpose spray. Doubt if WD40 would do as well on my skillet
Ya know. The Pam might not be such a bad idea!
Hear me out on this.
Pam is canola oil. When seasoning cast iron cookware I coat them in oil (I use shortening) and subject them to steady high heat until the oil burns off and leaves a smooth, consistent, and slippery layer of carbon behind. No reason that the nice even coating of canola oil on those parts, when heated, didn't so the same thing and essentially turn into a layer of carbon not far from being related to the original posters good suggestion of graphite.
I am willing to bet that in this instance, the carbon left behind by using Pam will continue to work as a better agent for promoting smooth and soundless sliding than the materials left behind by other oils with a higher melting point (gummy varnish) or the "who knows what" left behind by wd-40 or similars.
GOOD Choice on the PAM!
pen
Hear me out on this.
Pam is canola oil. When seasoning cast iron cookware I coat them in oil (I use shortening) and subject them to steady high heat until the oil burns off and leaves a smooth, consistent, and slippery layer of carbon behind. No reason that the nice even coating of canola oil on those parts, when heated, didn't so the same thing and essentially turn into a layer of carbon not far from being related to the original posters good suggestion of graphite.
I am willing to bet that in this instance, the carbon left behind by using Pam will continue to work as a better agent for promoting smooth and soundless sliding than the materials left behind by other oils with a higher melting point (gummy varnish) or the "who knows what" left behind by wd-40 or similars.
GOOD Choice on the PAM!
pen
- Status
Similar threads
