SS Liner and Insulation

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chopper698

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Feb 25, 2007
29
I have a small Jotul 602 I put in my fireplace last year. I went with a block off plate and 6"stove pipe up to the first flu tile. This summer
I want to replace the stove pipe with a 6” stainless liner so it is 6"all the way up. With just the stove pipe up to the first flu tile, the draft was to strong
because of the big diameter of the chimney 8x8. The chimney has two seperate flu’s one for the stove and one for my furnace that run through the center of the
interior of my house. I would like to know if I need to insulate the new liner and do I still need the block off plate being that the top of the new ss liner has a plate
that that gets siliconed and screwed down to the top of the chimney?
 
How tall is the chimney? It could be the height that is causing the strong draft. If it is, the liner probably won't help. Do you have a draft damper on the flue? I had to have one on our 602, otherwise it wanted to burn hot and fast.
 
Throw a draft damper in to cut down the air flow. I had to do this when I lived on the highest section of Portland Maine. My chimney was a 200 year old double brick lined monster with a 12"X 12" flue and my stove had a 6" pipe. I had a Jotul combie at the time and the simple draft damper installed as the first piece of stove pipe solved the problem, and I never had a problem again. I ran this stove hot twice a day and there was never any creosote when I cleaned the chimney yearly. I think the chimney length above my stove was 25'. This worked fine for me. Plus in addition to living a a high elevation the Atlantic ocean was only 500 yards from my house.
 
My chimney is about 25ft and i do have a dampner just past the 90 out of the stove.
 
I suspect that you may just need to keep an eye on it. 25' of 6" insulated pipe is probably going to draw really well. Damper the flue damper all the way closed after the stove and flue are hot and use larger splits.

How are the burn plates and upper baffle in the Jotul? Is there any warping and do they all fit tightly together? If not, that can cause the stove to be harder to control, especially if there isn't a snug fit at the back of the stove.
 
Yes they all fit snug and I even cut a piece of 1/4'' steel to fit the back wall as a precaution. I was told they always crack back
there when its overfired.
 
chopper698 said:
Yes they all fit snug and I even cut a piece of 1/4'' steel to fit the back wall as a precaution. I was told they always crack back
there when its overfired.

Sounds good, you may be doing the best that can be expected. I bolted in a steel plate in back of my stove after rebuilding it. It really helps.
 
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