I currently have an outside chimney that is 25 ft tall. It has the red clay tile brick linning and has been inspected by a chimney sweep a few weeks ago and he said it looked like it has been hardly used at all.I am going to put a free standing wood stove in my basement hopefully before next winter. I have seen a lot of writing in here about stainless steel chimmney liners. My question is do I need one to use a wood stove or is my current red tiles good. I just would like some of your thoughts on it. Thank you
stainless steel chimney liner
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what size are the flue tiles?
If the flue tiles are sized right and they are in good shape there is no reason not to use them. A stainless liner will work better but clay lined chimneys can work very well too.
If the flue tiles are sized right and they are in good shape there is no reason not to use them. A stainless liner will work better but clay lined chimneys can work very well too.
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CaptSpiff
Minister of Fire
By the way, what was that chimney used for before?
So while I agree with bholler that it's OK to use the existing clay tile liners if the size is not too big (square inch wise), but I'm still a fan of running an insulated 6" liner whenever able. This is especially if the tile flue is oversized, like from an old FP. The new stoves don't put nearly the heat & exhaust gas volumn up the flue, and sometimes the water condenses on the tile half way up and just runs down the inside. Once the flue is SS lined & insulated, the thin walls heat up fast all the way to the top, and most of your mosture is expelled out the top. Cleaning becomes easier too, with much less soot or creosult problems. If any, it'll likely only be toward the last few feet near the top.
What did your Chimney sweep say about the top of your chimney? Used or unused the crown usually takes a beating and you should include any repairs up there in your cost picture. I was shocked by some of the conditions on youtube:
This metal top & drip edge design may be over the top, but no chimney flue top should ever be naked.
my 2 cents worth.
So while I agree with bholler that it's OK to use the existing clay tile liners if the size is not too big (square inch wise), but I'm still a fan of running an insulated 6" liner whenever able. This is especially if the tile flue is oversized, like from an old FP. The new stoves don't put nearly the heat & exhaust gas volumn up the flue, and sometimes the water condenses on the tile half way up and just runs down the inside. Once the flue is SS lined & insulated, the thin walls heat up fast all the way to the top, and most of your mosture is expelled out the top. Cleaning becomes easier too, with much less soot or creosult problems. If any, it'll likely only be toward the last few feet near the top.
What did your Chimney sweep say about the top of your chimney? Used or unused the crown usually takes a beating and you should include any repairs up there in your cost picture. I was shocked by some of the conditions on youtube:
This metal top & drip edge design may be over the top, but no chimney flue top should ever be naked.
my 2 cents worth.
CaptSpiff
Minister of Fire
Those were not that bad actually I see way worse regularly. I absolutely agree that an insulated and correctly sized ss liner is much better but that does not mean that you cant use a good clay lined chimney at all.
I just called my building inspector to find out what he would be looking for if I installed a new SS liner in my old Clay liner for a new Woodstove install. I told him I probably had no room for insulation but would at least try to fit 1/4" blanket. He said "no need to insulate. Just make sure you are following all the stovemaker's installation guidelines".
I was afraid he was going to start reading UL-1777 paragraphs at me!
I was afraid he was going to start reading UL-1777 paragraphs at me!
smokedragon
Minister of Fire
It is not against code, and as long as you aren't going from a 6" diameter to a 13"x13" clay flue, it is safe. The real issue I have with using masonry liners is
1 - they typically tend to be much too large, causing a space where the hot flue gasses expand (read that as cool if you remember your basic chemistry) rapidly. Rapidly cooling flue gasses cause creosote to condense.
2 - If you have a chimney fire, every mortar joint in a masonry chimney becomes an escape point for that fire. Many times chimney fires burn houses down because the fire gets out into the attic through a masonry joint.
With that said, MANY people still install wood stoves like this (and they run them year in and out with no issue).
My masonry chimney was in excellent shape when we moved in 4 years ago, but I ran a liner anyway. My reason was that if there was ever a chimney fire, a single piece of stainless with no seems would contain it (except for at the roof where the pipe exits). The added plus is that it's easier to clean and the stove draws better.
If I was really on a tight budget and wasn't sure wood burning was for me. I would forgo lining the chimney for a season or two to see if it was for me.
I knew that wood would be my primary heat for years to come, so I sprung for the liner.
My $0.02
Exactly where I am now. First two years were proving the feasibility of heating the home with the stove. This coming season will be year 3 for me. And the liner is going in as soon as I have the last fire! Excited for next year already to see the added performance.
I just checked the stove installation manual. It says:
There should be at least 2 inches of clearance between the chimney and floor joists or other combustible materials.
I think this is the sentence that forces the need for a SS liner that is insulated to UL1777 standards (if you don't meet the 2" to combustible clearance) .
There should be at least 2 inches of clearance between the chimney and floor joists or other combustible materials.
I think this is the sentence that forces the need for a SS liner that is insulated to UL1777 standards (if you don't meet the 2" to combustible clearance) .
That's what I thought, but they made no disclaimer exterior or interior in the manual. I think it was an oversight.
Well if that is what the manual says that is what you need to go by. Manufacturers instructions trump code.
If you line and insulate to UL-1777 with 1/2" blanket doesn't that eliminate the clearance issue?
Yes it does as long as the liner is ul listed and you are using a ul listed insulation it will pass code. Unless either the stove manufacturer or the liner manufacturer says otherwise. The liner should not say different if it is ul listed though.
Sounds like I'm back to ovalizing. I'd never even fit a 1/4" blanket in there. The clay measured 6.5" on the narrow side and flex pipe is 6 1/4" before even adding wrap. What a pain.
I've seen some liner manufacturers say you have to use their insulation (like selkirk).
WOW,... maybe I should'a run that thru spell-check....
Who sells the liners. Lowes / Home depot/ I am not even sure where to shop for one and have it installed
There are lots of liner manufacturers. Just google "stainless steel chimney liner" and you will get lots of hits.
Are you getting it inspected after installation?
Are you getting it inspected after installation?
Good idea, I will have to call him, that why he can do in install and inspect all in one shot.
When I asked about inspection I meant by the local building authority. Are you pulling a permit?
The sweep will know if inspections and permits are required also. They are not here but I know nothing about your area.
CaptSpiff
Minister of Fire
I've had luck with:
Chimney Liner Depot, or
Rockford Chimney Supply.
But there are many more excellent sources.
Also, I may get flamed for this but,... sometimes the existing flue is possesed by the devil himself, and refuses the 1/2" insulation wrap. In those cases I've seen people fall back to 1/4" wrap, or even a naked liner. The Lord helps those who help themselves.
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