Stainless Steel Liner Install for Enviro Kodiak 1200 Insert

[amcdevitt]

Hello,

After reading for many months, I finally took the plunge and bought a Kodiak 1200 insert for my basement fireplace. I have decided to try and do the install myself and have a couple questions before I take the liner up on the roof.

One: I was given a top plate from the dealer and just noticed it is not stainless steel. It's labeled as galvalume. There is also a collar that attaches to the top of the liner made of the same material. All of the other components are stainless steel. Is this okay, or should I be using stainless steel for the top plate?

Two: Due to some mortar between clay tiles and some shifting in the clay tiles there was no way I could get a 6" or 5.5" liner down the chimney. I have a 5" liner, which I am told will not be a problem as the chimney is inside, and is 31' from the top of the tile to the top of the insert (when installed, of course). I was given a 6" to 5" to make the change from the insert to the liner. The 6" end of the reducer which fits nicely inside the collar on the insert. The 5" end also fits nicely, but fits inside the liner. I understand that with liners for wood, everything should be connected so creosote can drain down and not leak out at the joints. Do I have the wrong adapter? Does it matter if the reducer is inside the liner right above the insert?


Thanks for your input. I know it's only June, but I'm already looking forward to those cold nights when I can fire up the insert!


Andy

 

[summit]

the adaptor should fit crimps down.. while this will probably not bother anything if you go crimps up, you may get some rust and/or odor from the connection around the top of the stove after a year or two.. you should see if he can swap you for a connector that is crimped the opposite wat.... the galvalume top plate should not hurt... chances are you will probably have to replace it in about 10 yrs.. the only concern with the top plate / collar not being stainless, is that any water pooling at the top will make some rust eventually. this can discolor some of the top tiers of brick when it drips over.. the biggest thing when going from the 6" outlet to the 5" liner would be some smoke back into the house when you open the door. i have seen 6" outlets work fine on a 5" liner, but it really should be 6" all the way.. you said the tiles are shifting around alot in the chimney... what are the dimensions of the tiles? are they fairly loose? if so, it may not be a big deal to remove them with an old chimney sweep's trick;
break away any mortar holding in the top tile, reach in and pull out as many tiles as you can reach by hand. then, take a chimney brush and rod. make sure the brush is a size bigger than the tile. (for instance if you have a 7x11 tile use an 8x12 brush) push the brush into the tile about 1/2 way, then it should provide enough friction to lift the tile out. once the tile is on the roof, push the brush through it to dislodge the brush (trying to reverse it is a challange.) repeat untill they are all gone, or you reach some solid tiles. then you should be able to get a 6 liner down thru. another handy trick is to slightly ovalize the 6" round liner so it sleeves thru. you may have to oval the bottom 3' or so anyway to get it thru the damper, unless you smash the damper out.