Stainless T connector

[clark77]

So I picked up a forever flex 6" stainless quick T connector this weekend in preparation for the jotul f55. This will attach to my existing 6" stainless flex liner. I just stopped by my local dealer and he had one in stock. Boy that wasn't cheap.
Anyway, without having the stove here I'm trying to figure out clearances and it seems that I'm going to have to cut down the horizontal section of the connector by a few inches.
So how should this stainless piece be cut so that I get a good straight edge? I've never had to cut stainless before.
Also, since I don't have the stove here, how far does the stainless pipe go into the rear exiting flue of the stove? I'm guessing 1-2 inches but does someone have a better guess or know how much? I would have to assume that each stove is about the same or the same.
I'm also thinking of installing a key damper in the horizontal section before the install. I have very good draft and figure now would be the best time to install as any. I was at Lowe's over the weekend and they had a cast iron damper there for $7. Any thoughts on doing it now or later?
Thanks for your help.

 

[mopar440_6]

The installers who just put in my liner cut the snout of the connector with tin snips. They measured the length and made a dashed line of marks about 3/4"-1" apart the whole way around the pipe. Then they just cut in from one end until they got to the marked line and cut around the pipe. Then they crimped the end of the snout so the black pipe would fit over it.

 

[clark77]

I think the black pipe is a lot easier to cut then stainless.

 

[Oldman47]

Wait until you have the stove on site so that you can do a dry fit and be sure exactly where you want to cut. If you make an actual connection and find the stove is so many inches from where you want it, that will tell you how much to remove.

 

[bholler]

I think the black pipe is a lot easier to cut then stainless.

they are about the same to cut

 

[clark77]

I'm pretty sure I'll have to cut between 2 and 5 inches off. Otherwise it will hit the back of my fireplace.
Just was thinking that I could probably use a metal blade in a jig saw. That should be a clean cut. Just don't know how well the metal blade well hold up on the stainless.
A buddy of mine suggested using a cur off wheel on a grinder. That to me will be tough to keep a nice line.

 

[Oldman47]

You need to decide if it is 2 or 5 inches or something in between. That is why I suggested the dry fit. If that tells you 3 1/2 inches you will then know exactly where to cut and can mark it.

 

[jrems]

I tried a jig saw and even holding it down well caused the pipe to deform and shake like hell when cutting it. A cutoff wheel on a grinder will work much better. Don't work the grinder around the pipe, put the grinder in a vice and rotate the pipe. Put two strips of painters tape around the pipe with a 1/8" gap where you will cut. It will be very easy to see and get it straight. Don't overthink it. At least 3/4" will be inserted inside the stove so no one will see any slight imperfections.

 

[Dune]

I tried a jig saw and even holding it down well caused the pipe to deform and shake like hell when cutting it. A cutoff wheel on a grinder will work much better. Don't work the grinder around the pipe, put the grinder in a vice and rotate the pipe. Put two strips of painters tape around the pipe with a 1/8" gap where you will cut. It will be very easy to see and get it straight. Don't overthink it. At least 3/4" will be inserted inside the stove so no one will see any slight imperfections.

A cut off wheel in a right angle grinder is certainly the way to make this cut (after the stove arrives)
However, I am very concerned about the safety of a cut off wheel exposed in such a way.
No, this is a very dangerous suggestion.
A right angle grinder with a handle and a guard is almost as safe as a circular saw. Both hands are protected by their position.
If no guard and/or handle, then it is an unsafe tool and should not be used.

 

[Dune]

So I picked up a forever flex 6" stainless quick T connector this weekend in preparation for the jotul f55. This will attach to my existing 6" stainless flex liner. I just stopped by my local dealer and he had one in stock. Boy that wasn't cheap.
Anyway, without having the stove here I'm trying to figure out clearances and it seems that I'm going to have to cut down the horizontal section of the connector by a few inches.
So how should this stainless piece be cut so that I get a good straight edge? I've never had to cut stainless before.
Also, since I don't have the stove here, how far does the stainless pipe go into the rear exiting flue of the stove? I'm guessing 1-2 inches but does someone have a better guess or know how much? I would have to assume that each stove is about the same or the same.
I'm also thinking of installing a key damper in the horizontal section before the install. I have very good draft and figure now would be the best time to install as any. I was at Lowe's over the weekend and they had a cast iron damper there for $7. Any thoughts on doing it now or later?
Thanks for your help.

Eliminate the guess work and wit for the stove, especially since the part was expensive.
What you are trying to do makes no sense.

 

[begreen]

The trick is knowing the proper tool to make the cut and the proper way to use it. Aviation snips come in 3 colors, red, green and yellow. The yellow snips are for straight cuts only. If you try cutting off a section from a round pipe with them you will get nothing but a jagged bunch of fishhooks. To cut it correctly you need to use either the red or green snip. Which one depends on which direction you are cutting. If you are going clockwise around the front edge of the pipe use the green snip. In this case you want the scrap to curl away from the snip on the right hand side of the snip. Done right this is a one minute operation.

Here's a tutorial:

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[clark77]

Eliminate the guess work and wit for the stove, especially since the part was expensive.
What you are trying to do makes no sense.

What doesn't make sense. The horizontal portion is to long and it needs to be shortened. I looked on their website and I can't find a shorter extension piece. They do make longer ones but that won't help me. So I'm trying to find out the proper way to cut stainless steel by asking you guys. I don't want it to look like a hack job. I've never cut stainless before and was asking for pointers.

 

[Dune]

What doesn't make sense. The horizontal portion is to long and it needs to be shortened. I looked on their website and I can't find a shorter extension piece. They do make longer ones but that won't help me. So I'm trying to find out the proper way to cut stainless steel by asking you guys. I don't want it to look like a hack job. I've never cut stainless before and was asking for pointers.

What doesn't make sense is not waiting until the stove is there to cut the pipe. In theory there is no difference between theory and practice. In practice there is.

 

[Oldman47]

Stainless is basically just steel. Cut it like any other steel and you will be fine.

 

[clark77]

I'm asking now so I can get whatever I need now before the stove arrives. I'm trying to keep my down time without a stove to a minimum. Thanks for the video. I believe I have a pair of either the red or green snips.
I thought stainless was much stronger than regular sheet metal. Good to know it can be cut with snips. Thanks for your help guys.

 

[bholler]

We many times use a cordless grinder wit ha thin diamond masonry cutting wheel in to cut stainless But we will many times also just cut it with snips. I would strongly recomend against a jig saw they make pretty rough cuts that like to cut you if you are not careful. So does the grinder but you can smooth it out after the cut

 

[clark77]

We many times use a cordless grinder wit ha thin diamond masonry cutting wheel in to cut stainless But we will many times also just cut it with snips. I would strongly recomend against a jig saw they make pretty rough cuts that like to cut you if you are not careful. So does the grinder but you can smooth it out after the cut

ok thanks. just was throwing out ideas before to hear your thoughts.
i just got a call from the dealer and my stove is in and can be picked up. now i just need to find time around my work schedule to go get it

 

[begreen]

Besides the tips shown in the video, put a drop of oil on the cutting edges of the snip jaws. That will make it cut easier.

 

[clark77]

great thanks.

 

[clark77]

thanks for all the help with this. I was able to pick the stove up yesterday and get it all installed. I picked up the stove at 10am and I had it in place all piped up by 1pm. I had to only 1 inch off of the horizontal stainless part of the T connector and I was able to get a super clean cut with a pair of tin snips. I did a bunch of research and watch youtube videos on the proper way to use aviation snips. you definitely can find anything on youtube for instructional purposes.
I also had to cut about 6 inches off of my stainless liner and that was a little more challenging due to its location and the ribs in the liner. but after moving the stove a few times back and forth to measure things up, everything came out nice.
then the time consuming part started...I fabed up a sheetmetal block off plate. that took me until about 6pm but that included a trip to lowes to get the roxul fire insulation.
i'll post up some pics after I get my phone.
so since the stainless is not magnetic, how do you suggest I monitor flue temps without using a ir gun? just seems lke a pain to keep grabbing the gun and reaching into the fireplace to shoot the pipe. right now I have a thermometer on the flue collar and using the ir gun to monitor the stove top temps during break in. I didn't want to place the magnetic thermometer on the stove top during break for fear of it making a mark on the top during the curing process.

 

[clark77]

 

[begreen]

Looking good. Time to get those break in fires done. It's getting cold outside.

 

[clark77]

I am. I was able to get the 200 and 300 burns in last night ( I finished the 300 at 2:30 am) and I am just letting the stove cool from the 400 degree burn. Stove top is still over 140 so a couple more hours to cool to room temp.
We had our fire alarms go off in the middle of the 400 burn. Had to open windows and air things out. Was real nice since it was 15 degrees out at the time.
Will this happen again after I hit 500+ temps?

 

[clark77]

 

[kennyp2339]

looking good clark, that stove is going to get a good workout this weekend