Staple up radiant floor heat

[Grover59]

I am going to go ahead with the radiant floor heat, my house is about 1000 sq ft and I can get at all of the floor from the cellar very easy. I have done some reseach and read what I could find on this forum on radiant floor heat, however I would like any ideas or hints from those people who have been there and done that specifically on staple up method.

What size pipe? I have been told 1/2 inch easy to work with so long as I don't go any longer then 250 ft per loop.

Steve

 

[Highbeam]

How thick is the subfloor that you are stapling against?

 

[jklingel]

"I have been told 1/2 inch easy to work with so long as I don’t go any longer then 250 ft per loop." That is what a plumber friend had us do on our house. I think you also need to keep the water below 140 degrees, maybe less. Be sure to check w/ someone on that, and use the PEX pipe that is coated for heating, not domestic hot water pipe. I would guess your staples should almost penetrate the floor; the longer the better, IMO, and use plenty of them.

 

[Grover59]

How thick is the subfloor that you are stapling against?

The subfloor looks to be about 1 3/8" plywood, I have carpet in the bedrooms, livingroom and linolium in the ketchen and bathroom.

Steve

 

[sparke]

Hello Maine!

Go to Winslow supply. They will give you all the info you need. I put up some radiant under my bathroom floor. My plumber got heat exchangers made of aluminum. They came from Winslow Supply or FW Webb(also in Winslow).

 

[Grover59]

Hello Maine!

Go to Winslow supply. They will give you all the info you need. I put up some radiant under my bathroom floor. My plumber got heat exchangers made of aluminum. They came from Winslow Supply or FW Webb(also in Winslow).

I will check that out, Thanks

Steve

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

The extruded aluminum heat transfer plates are definitely the way to go. Pricey, but they let you run lower water temperatures, which means you can run longer off your storage tank between fires.

Joe

 

[atlarge54]

The local installer here recommended using a reflector under the tubing to "drive" the heat up especially where carpet was involved. I used 1/2" foiled foam board or the shiny bubble wrap stuff depending on location. I made my own alum. absorber plates from 6'' alum. flat stock cut to 4' lengths and bent in a homemade wooden jig. Staples might be just fine but I used 3/4" galv. drywall screws. Don't hesitate to spend $30 on a Milw. Hole Hawg drill bit. A 1/2" right angle drill helps a lot also (I got a used one on ebay). You won't regret the effort. Good luck

 

[Grover59]

I will definately use the alum plates, and the foil reflector.

 

[Tony H]

You might want to verify the thickness of the subfloor 1 3/8 is unusual unless you have hardwood over the sub and are measuring both. Much more common would be 3/4 or 11/16 in newer construction.

 

[Grover59]

You might want to verify the thickness of the subfloor 1 3/8 is unusual unless you have hardwood over the sub and are measuring both. Much more common would be 3/4 or 11/16 in newer construction.

Yes you are right I was measuring the whole floor.

Steve

 

[Grover59]

I have been shopping for the stuff to do this project, I have found most all that I need on ebay, my question is what should I expect to pay for the alum plates you staple to the floor. I have found them on ebay for 1.99 for one that is 2 feet long.

Steve

 

[atlarge54]

I looked at the aluminum plates on ebay, the 2' units for $2 look a little overpriced the extruded 4' units for $7+ might be worth the extra (Brownie rec.) If you're using 500' you could make your own. When I made mine a 50' coil of alum was about $10 and it took about 15 to 20 minutes to cut and bend a roll. My jig was made of scrap plywood some 1x4's an old door hinge all assembled with drywall screws. Even if it takes all day (and it shouldn't) $400 is a fair days labor. Are you planning to use fiberglass between floor joists, you might overheat your basement if you don't. How's the tank project doing? Oh yeah what are you some kind of commie pinko? A lousy 1000 sq ft home, thats almost un-American. Boy I sure hope it's not paid for too. Just kidding.

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

The 2-footers are a lot of work. Even 4-foot sections get tedious.

Joe

 

[mikeyny]

I have heard that if you do radiant floor heat in an older home you should verify that there are no petroleum products under any of the flooring, like tar paper. Some rosin paper has tar in it also. The claim when you warm up the floor you may get an smell from the stuff under the floor. Also anyone doing it in a concrete slab should let the concrete cure for 6 months to a yr. before turning it on. Otherwise the entire floor will crack badly due to curing rapidly. I have seen this happen before.
Mike

 

[rsnider]

go to (broken link removed) and this will give you all the info on how to install radiant floor heat with pics. you can print the whole site. lots of good info on how to install and problems to avoid. i would not start buying things until you read this website alot of what you are talking about is covered on this site. hope this helps. ryan

 

[Grover59]

I will check out making my own it woud for sure save me some money, and I could make them as long as I want, as Joe said the 2 footers could be a pain in the butt. I am asumming you just buy like alum flashing ?

Steve

 

[rsnider]

www.radiantdesigninstitute.com

 

[Grover59]

Another question, areas where the tub is and the sink in the bathroom is it really necessary to put the floor heat in those areas or could I just bypass them? I can get at it however I would like to keep that plumbing accesable.

Steve

 

[BrownianHeatingTech]

Another question, areas where the tub is and the sink in the bathroom is it really necessary to put the floor heat in those areas or could I just bypass them? I can get at it however I would like to keep that plumbing accesable.

You can skip them. I wouldn't necessarily worry about skipping the sink, because it is small. And it can be nice to have a little warmth under the tub. But you can skip them if you like. Definitely skip right under the toilet, so you don't melt/soften the wax ring.

Joe

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

This is probably obvious but . . . make any tile a seperate zone. We made the whole master suite one zone, and either the bedroom is too hot or the bathroom floor is too cool.