Starting fires in new insert

[woodslinger]

I have purchased a new Regency insert but have had a little trouble with fire startup. Will this improve as the unit and firebrick cure out? Also, I have yet to master the top down fire. I am getting better but any tips would be helpful.

 

[drdoct]

Did you do a full reline of your chimney or just stick it in? The reason I ask is that the epa stoves need a good draw from the chimney since that's what's bringing in the air to the fire. You should be able to leave your door cracked a little and never have a worry as long as you've got some small stuff for it to catch and it's dry.

 

[Slow1]

I have purchased a new Regency insert but have had a little trouble with fire startup. Will this improve as the unit and firebrick cure out?

Short answer: No

Unit curing is more about drying out cement in joints, getting paint heated up to out-gas VOCs and such. It really doesn't materially change the burning characteristics of the stove... now if you are talking about a massive home built stone masonry heater with lots of mortar and such that might be another story.

Most likely the issues are Draft, Wood, or knowing how to operate the stove.

Draft: Review how the chimney was installed - was it lined properly? Insulated as needed etc? Proper height? Anything blocking it?

Wood: Is it REALLY dry enough - try some kiln dried wood as a test if you want to be sure (i.e. the expensive stuff sold in big-box hardware stores that is bone dry). If that fixes the problem then double check your wood - a moisture meter is a good investment in my opinion.

Operation: Review manufactures recommendation on how to operate controls (i.e. which way is open and closed). Don't shut down air too soon etc. As an example, the first time I built a fire in my VC I foolishly lit the fire and then as soon as it was flaming up (tinder was still just really going) I tried to engage the everburn which basically cut the draft to nothing... and I got a firebox full of smoke. Took a bit to realize I had to get stove really up to temp before adjusting any air controls downward.

 

[ControlFreak]

Keep in mind that when you light a fire in your stove, you should be starting with a significant pile of kindling to establish a bed of coals. A significant pile means about half your firebox filled with loosely stacked kindling. That kindling will develop the heat to bring your stove up to a good temperature. When the kindling is no longer creating much flame, then you can spread out the coals and lay some splits in there. Be careful not to place the flat sides of splits on top of the coals, so as to smother them. Rather, push the sharp edges of the splits down into the coals to keep them nice and red. If your splits take a while to start burning, or you have problems with keeping a flame once you close the door, then you probably have a bit too much moisture in your wood. Moist wood always needs a lot of draft to keep a flame going.

You'll need a pretty big pile of kindling for those times of the year when you're not burning continuously. I use my splitter and take some of the straighter pieces and split them up into the smallest strips of kindling I can get. It's just easier than going around scrounging for scrap construction lumber. The hardwood coals last much longer than the pine construction lumber.

 

[DAKSY]

I burned a Regency insert for a couple years & the BEST way I found to get a draft started - depending on the outside air temps -
was to wad up a couple of pieces of newspaper & jam em up on the baffles...
Have your kindling ready at the same time.
Light the wads on the baffle, close the door, leaving it slightly cracked open & you'll actually HEAR the draft start to roar...
Once you hear the draft start, light the stuff in the firebox & latch the door...