Looking for my first saw and came upon someone who is selling one basically brand new. They say its been used for a tree from one of the recent storms and it still has the 2 year warranty. It's listed at $260 obo. My dad has a ms261 I believe with a 20 inch bar that I have used a good amount in the last 3 years. Would the 250 be fine for gathering fire wood and such? And is that a reasonable price? Obviously I would go check it all out before actually making the purchase. Thanks
Stihl ms250
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Tom123
Burning Hunk
I’ve had my MS250 since September of 2015. I cut about 8 cord with it and have had zero issues. I do all my own maintenance and found the saw to be much better engineered than the Poulan Woodshark it replaced. I do not drop big trees but love to get into logs left by the power lines etc. I was cutting some 16”-18” red oak 2 weeks ago and realized the saw was pretty much at its limit. $260 is a good price, especially if the warranty transfers. Make sure you get the STIHL yellow chain for it. The stock chain is the green (safety) chain.
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the 250 is a good saw and would make a fine firewood saw. My dad has one that I've used and I like it. It definitely does not have the power or quality of your dad's 261, but it should be perfectly fine. Its about the smallest saw that I would consider a firewood saw. Stihl sells the 250 with an 18" bar I think for marketing reasons, but I think you will get much better service out of it with a 16" bar and a good stihl yellow chain. $260 is probably a fine price, but you should always offer less. Certainly you could get it for $250 and maybe even $230. If you take care of it, the saw should cut a lot of wood and last a long time.
gfirkus
Member
I bought mine in 2006 and still have it. I’ve cut approximately 20-25 cord when I cleared for my house/yard and driveway in 2008. I started cutting 4 years ago for heating and cut another 25 cord. I had problems last year and ended up taking it in. Needed a new carb. I’ve cut a few 28”-30” oak trees with it. It takes a bit but works. The majority of the trees are 8-16” I cut. Since I’ve had it I needed the new carb ($25), used up one chain and one spark plug.
FarmerDan
Member
I got one, too! It's tough, really durable, and will take a beating due to user (whoops...) error. Like @gfirkus, I've even used it on some 30" oak with little issues. That price sounds like a great deal.
First chainsaw I ever used/had, and has performed very well. I totally am a newbie using chainsaws. A friend pointed out to me that I was using a dull chain, AND I was overtightening the chain. Mistake on my part, and the saw still is working well, despite the newbie user error.
That's a tribute to a forgiving and well-designed workhorse. New chain and proper tightening, works (even better!) while bucking oak.
First chainsaw I ever used/had, and has performed very well. I totally am a newbie using chainsaws. A friend pointed out to me that I was using a dull chain, AND I was overtightening the chain. Mistake on my part, and the saw still is working well, despite the newbie user error.
That's a tribute to a forgiving and well-designed workhorse. New chain and proper tightening, works (even better!) while bucking oak.
maple1
Minister of Fire
What all was involved in that, exactly?
I have one but don't even know what's on it. Or what is supposed to be. I got it used. The bar & chain were thrashed, and the kill switch wire was unhooked. Guy asked for $60, I handed that over pretty quick. Don't think he know about the wire, he was choking it to stop it. I took the old bar in & got one the same - but not sure it was what came on it new. Didn't even pay attention to what I was buying lol - maybe I've got that already.
maple1,
There are primarily 4 chain "sizes", which actually refer to the pitch of the chain (which in turn is the distance between 3 rivets/2). From largest to smallest they are; .404 (this is only used on the very largest saws), then "regular" 3/8 which is used on most saws over about 55 or 60cc. Next is .325 which is used on most saws between 45 - 60cc. The smallest pitch is 3/8 low profile or lo pro, or Stihl calls it "Picco". (there may actually be smaller pitch chains than 3/8 lp, but I don't have any experience with them).
The Stihl 250 comes with .325 and is about the smallest saw that comes with that pitch chain. So what Tar12 did was convert his 250s to run on 3/8 low profile chain which is a lighter chain and each tooth takes a slightly smaller bite out of the wood, so the saw can spin the chain faster and possibly cut wood faster. To convert from .325 to 3/8 low pro, you have to switch out your chain sprocket with one that will accept the 3/8 chain. The sprocket is the part of the saw that you wrap the chain around when you attach the bar and chain to the saw.
So, putting a smaller pitch chain on your saw can make it work less hard and bog less in the cut. Putting a shorter bar on can also make it work less hard and bog less. I tend to put shorter bars on my saws than most people as I cut a lot of oak, hickory and locust and generally don't cut giant trees, so I am served better with a shorter bar that won't bog down. Guys out west can run longer bars and their saws because they are cutting mostly very soft wood. I've heard of guys out west running 24" bars on a stihl 261 which seems crazy to me as I run an 18" bar on my 362 (and LOVE it).
There are primarily 4 chain "sizes", which actually refer to the pitch of the chain (which in turn is the distance between 3 rivets/2). From largest to smallest they are; .404 (this is only used on the very largest saws), then "regular" 3/8 which is used on most saws over about 55 or 60cc. Next is .325 which is used on most saws between 45 - 60cc. The smallest pitch is 3/8 low profile or lo pro, or Stihl calls it "Picco". (there may actually be smaller pitch chains than 3/8 lp, but I don't have any experience with them).
The Stihl 250 comes with .325 and is about the smallest saw that comes with that pitch chain. So what Tar12 did was convert his 250s to run on 3/8 low profile chain which is a lighter chain and each tooth takes a slightly smaller bite out of the wood, so the saw can spin the chain faster and possibly cut wood faster. To convert from .325 to 3/8 low pro, you have to switch out your chain sprocket with one that will accept the 3/8 chain. The sprocket is the part of the saw that you wrap the chain around when you attach the bar and chain to the saw.
So, putting a smaller pitch chain on your saw can make it work less hard and bog less in the cut. Putting a shorter bar on can also make it work less hard and bog less. I tend to put shorter bars on my saws than most people as I cut a lot of oak, hickory and locust and generally don't cut giant trees, so I am served better with a shorter bar that won't bog down. Guys out west can run longer bars and their saws because they are cutting mostly very soft wood. I've heard of guys out west running 24" bars on a stihl 261 which seems crazy to me as I run an 18" bar on my 362 (and LOVE it).
Admitted amateur here. I bought a ms250 two years ago. I previously owed a homelite ranger 33cc. (Don't laugh, it was free) So it was a big step up for me. It has the 18 inch bar with the .325 green chain. However, I feel that i am wielding a very powerful machine. I use it to cut firewood for home use. The largest tree was about a 22 inch sweetgum. I don't think that I have the skill to tackle much bigger trees. Last fall I bought the Stihl 2in1 sharpener. That was worth the money. My only criticism is that the air filter gets pretty dirty after a couple hours of use. So I take an extra with me when cutting. However, I sometime get dust inside near the mouth of the carburetor when I take the dirty one off. I can't live with that so I take cotton swabs to clean out any residue before putting new one on. Maybe someone can give advice on how to avoid this problem.
It sounds like you are switching out your air filter while you are in the woods? Generally you shouldn't need to do this within a single day's cutting. I'm sure it would be fine until you get home. Then I would use a blower attachment for an air compressor if you have one and blow the saw down and then you should be able to remove the air filter safely without sawdust getting into the carb.
Filtration on the Stihls are not as good as some of their competitors. One tip to reduce the potential for getting fine dust in the intake is to put a thin layer of grease on the seal for the filter. The filter should not need replacing every time you cut. At the end of tyre day you can take it off and tap it out. Put new grease on the seal and go.
A little saw dust from changing the air filter will do no damage.Just avoid a bunch falling in the carb.
Missed out on. The other one. Came across another one from a guy who is selling it for his father. I contacted stihl and the saw was produced in october 2010 so probably bought in late 2010 or early 2011. It seems to be in solid shape and says it has minimal use. He's 76 years old. I plan on going to check it out sunday. It has a 16 inch bar. How much different are the saws from 2010 till now? Here are a few pictures of it. It seems to be priced right at 225 as I see locally they are going for 360 new. Should I consider it?
I had a saw just like it from that era, worked great without any issues. Very good homeowner saw.
I don't think there's a lot of changes from then until now, if memory serves. I'd have no problem buying an "older" saw if it looks and runs out well.
I don't think there's a lot of changes from then until now, if memory serves. I'd have no problem buying an "older" saw if it looks and runs out well.
Pull the muffler if you can to check the health of the piston.Nice and shiny with horizontal machine marks is what you want to see.Anything else offer less if you want to fix it.
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