Stihl MS260 vs MS362 - that big of a difference?

[bens_igloo]

A few years ago I bought a used MS260 for some property maintenance. Earlier this year I bought a second saw, an MS362C-M because I'm bucking large loads of wood and that way I can get a helper!) I am simply amazed at how much faster the 362 cuts versus the 260. Both are running 16 inch bars, RS chains, very sharp. The 260 is .325, 362 has the 3/8.

Is it considered normal that the 362 is massively more powerful? On paper it is only 10cc's more, but the same cut takes easily twice as long with the 260. I thought maybe the 260 wasn't tuned properly so I got a tach and confirmed it is running at 13,800rpm with a 1:50 mix (same as the 263). Same result. On the 362 you can really feel the chain biting, but very little on the 260.

Needless to say I'm extremely happy with the performance of the 362!

 

[Tar12]

You can convert to 3/8ths chain on that 260 and you will notice a big difference in the cutting performance of that saw..I did this to both of my 260 Pros and love the results! I run full chisel 3/8ths on everything from the 260 Pros up to the 660..

 

[DodgyNomad]

362 is a good saw. I've always felt the 361/362 run a bit better than they should for the size.

 

[Allagash350]

A 362 with a 16 inch bar will rip compared to the smaller saw with the same bar.

Sometimes I put an 18 inch on my 441 and it is fast as hell.

The 362 is great with an 18 or 20

 

[bens_igloo]

Had I thought about a conversion to 3/8th a few weeks ago I might have done it. Just bought a new .325 bar and chain for it.

I really like running a 16” bar. For firewood I hardly ever run across anything bigger than 24-28 inches, so the 16 is fine. And it never bogs down.

I bought the 362 very slightly used with a 25” bar and chain but it was too big for my needs. Plus for some reason it always pulls to one side and stops cutting but can’t figure out the source. Bar is straight and lots of life left on the chain. It was really dull and I sharpened it but same story

 

[jwfirebird]

don't sound like they cleaned it if its fairly new. I would get new chain, and really look over the bar if not get another one of those, they have these oil ports that need to be picked toward the back, make sure those are open as well as the sprocket turn easy

 

[FLINT]

are you saying it pulled to one side with the 25" bar, or your new 16" bar?

usually pulling to one side is caused by uneven tooth sharpening. I've had chains do that before when I didn't do a great job of sharpening them evenly.

I have a 362 and absolutely love it. I run a 18" bar on it and it is an absolute beast. I agree with you that 16" is really all you need most of the time for firewood cutting. I ran a 16" bar for years on my old 028 and I cut some big old oak trees with it just fine. When I bought the 362 I figured that I probably didn't need the 20" bar that normally comes with it and figured it would probably cut better with the 18" anyways. Can't imagine what it would do with 16".

 

[bens_igloo]

are you saying it pulled to one side with the 25" bar, or your new 16" bar?

usually pulling to one side is caused by uneven tooth sharpening. I've had chains do that before when I didn't do a great job of sharpening them evenly.

I have a 362 and absolutely love it. I run a 18" bar on it and it is an absolute beast. I agree with you that 16" is really all you need most of the time for firewood cutting. I ran a 16" bar for years on my old 028 and I cut some big old oak trees with it just fine. When I bought the 362 I figured that I probably didn't need the 20" bar that normally comes with it and figured it would probably cut better with the 18" anyways. Can't imagine what it would do with 16".

The 25”. It cuts fine as it’s first penetrating, but because it pulls to a side, eventually the chain just spins and nothing happens except heat and smoke. I’ll try to give it another good filing! 16” cuts beautifully, I give it a quick file every 2 tanks of gas or so.

 

[FLINT]

Man, sounds like I wouldn't want to do that too many times with my saw. Might need a new chain. I wonder also if you need to turn your oiler adjustment up with the longer bar. Longer chain needs more oil. Oh wait. You said you sharpened the chain. Did you also file down the rakers a little. I had that happen once. I filed the chain several times without lowering the rakers so the teeth couldn't do their job. Maybe a combination of all of the above. I think I'd turn up the oil and put on a new chain. If that doesn't work, I'd forget about the 25" bar and get back to ripping with the 16.

 

[jwfirebird]

nearly impossible to get a get sharp tooth with just a file. i just take it to the the dealer and have them use the machine.

 

[salecker]

nearly impossible to get a get sharp tooth with just a file. i just take it to the the dealer and have them use the machine.

It has been proven if you know what you are doing a hand filed chain is sharper than a machine ground one.

 

[jwfirebird]

for people like me that would never get the angle right because they do 2 or 3 chains a year essentially because that's firewood season, its just easier to take them to the stihl dealer. he charges a few bucks a chain an its like new

 

[xman23]

Ben, I had a my 260 cutting crooked, sharpened the chain like I've done to many others. No good, a few more sharpening, still NG, maybe something else, bar etc. Got a new chain, it was the chain. Now if I can't get it right the first time the chain is out of here.

I use the stock .325 RS, on a 18" bar. It needs to have a real sharp chain to throw chunks. I've thought about trying a full chisel. Anyone know if the Stihl dealer stocks them? Is there a down side to full chisel chains?

 

[Tar12]

Ben, I had a my 260 cutting crooked, sharpened the chain like I've done to many others. No good, a few more sharpening, still NG, maybe something else, bar etc. Got a new chain, it was the chain. Now if I can't get it right the first time the chain is out of here.

I use the stock .325 RS, on a 18" bar. It needs to have a real sharp chain to throw chunks. I've thought about trying a full chisel. Anyone know if the Stihl dealer stocks them? Is there a down side to full chisel chains?

There is a down side to full chisel chains...if you cut in dirty muddy icy conditions a full chisel chain will dull quicker....I cut a lot of tops and they stay pretty clean and I run nothing but full chisel...even on my small saws as it cuts much faster and time is important to me.

 

[bens_igloo]

All my chains are full chisels. I give them a run of the file every 2nd tank and they cut great even after many, many filings.

 

[Jazzberry]

full chisel skip tooth for pine for me

 

[maple1]

Had I thought about a conversion to 3/8th a few weeks ago I might have done it. Just bought a new .325 bar and chain for it.

I really like running a 16” bar. For firewood I hardly ever run across anything bigger than 24-28 inches, so the 16 is fine. And it never bogs down.

I bought the 362 very slightly used with a 25” bar and chain but it was too big for my needs. Plus for some reason it always pulls to one side and stops cutting but can’t figure out the source. Bar is straight and lots of life left on the chain. It was really dull and I sharpened it but same story

Ha - I went through this with my 360 and 20" at the end of last year. Drove me nuts. I think I now know what the problem is/was but haven't gotten back to it.

Simply put, it wasn't oiling enough, which prematurely wore the drive teeth and/or bar rails. So the chain is very sloppy in the rails - and any little sideways thing will knock the teeth over and away goes the cut, into banana territory until it stops cutting. It is much more evident when felling (saw sideways) than cutting (saw upright). I think my oiler hose is cracked and that's the root of my issue - since it leaks when sitting if there is much oil in the tank. But your 25" bar needs a lot more oil, and if it isn't turned up all the way, it won't have enough. Might even not be enough if it is turned up.

So, check your chain slop in the rails.

 

[lindnova]

There is a big difference between 260 and 362. A 260 is great for brushing, limbing and small stuff. A 362 is better for everything else.

I ran a 260 for a few years cutting 10 cords a year. My 362 was a welcome addition long overdue - then I got a 461. If you cut bigger wood and have a good back/ability to handle it go big.

 

[bens_igloo]

Two weeks ago we had an ice storm so I had a bunch of cleanup to do in the yard.

I filed down the rakers on the new chain on the 260 (full chisel, .325). Just two strokes of the file. Boy what a difference. It's obviously not as fast as the 362, but at least they behave similarly now: biting in the wood and taking out good size shavings. I know I didn't file them down too much because the 260 is in no way bogging down.

I do find it odd that from the factory the .325 chain didn't bite nearly as much as the 3/8 chain on my 362, which was also new. It seemed like the saw wasn't working hard at all.