I've got a Stilh 034 super that runs great with a 20 inch bar. I came across two bows, one about 2 inches larger than the other, and it won't turn the chain on the bigger bow. The chain is loose and can turn easily by hand. The motor bogs down and won't turn the chain. There doesn't appear to be anything wrong with the bow and oils well. I should not have to adjust the carburetor going from a bar to a bow correct?
Stihl saw problem
- Thread starter Toddw
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Carb adjustment shouldn't be required due to changing a bar. Can I assume that this is what you mean when you say "bow"?
![[Hearth.com] Stihl saw problem](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/127/127130-0864c1ffb63750b5338b01b4239cf859.jpg?hash=I8d6aqvZJS "[Hearth.com] Stihl saw problem")
Yes. I'll correct myself, it will eventuLly get the chain going if I hold the throttle but if I touch a log it will bog down. The bow that does work we'll looks like yours but the larger now is a little squared off at the two outer corners, for lack of better terms. In other words it will cut a larger log. I haven't tried flipping it over yet as someone else suggested. It's almost like there's too much drag.
Bows are not very common in todays world. Is it possible that you got a couple of heavily used ones? Maybe they are wore to the point the the drive link is dragging in the bar slot. Just throwing ideas, cuz it is hard to diagnose without seeing or feeling it.
Check for pinch points and uniformity of the rails and slot. Check the drive links on your chain - are they proper for your clutch? Do they match to your regular bar and chain?
You either having something dragging on the bow/chain or you have a weak clutch, but if the motor is stalling, chances are your clutch is still good.
May I ask your intentions for the bow saw - they were fairly specific in their uses.
Check for pinch points and uniformity of the rails and slot. Check the drive links on your chain - are they proper for your clutch? Do they match to your regular bar and chain?
You either having something dragging on the bow/chain or you have a weak clutch, but if the motor is stalling, chances are your clutch is still good.
May I ask your intentions for the bow saw - they were fairly specific in their uses.
I use it to cut up a tree that's already down. I have another saw with a bar to cut the tree down with. The bow saves my back.
Use massive doses of caution. Those things were notoriously dangerous even for experienced users.
So you have used these (particular) bars in the past? Or did you just pick them up?
So you have used these (particular) bars in the past? Or did you just pick them up?
I haven't thought about the chain itself. I had the chain cut for the bow at a Stihl dealer so I assumed it was the right chain. I haven't thought about the links vs the clutch. The chain feels good on the bow by hand but that doesn't mean it's good.
I just picked them up used from another Stihl dealer. I'm aware of the danger and use with upmost caution. I lock the chain any time I gave to move. Thanks.
That is a good practice, but not really the dangerous part. They were notorious for jumping around and kickback. Full disclosure - I have not used one. The info I am regurgitating was from and old timer and what I have gleaned elsewhere.
Thanks for your concern. I'll be as careful as I can when I use it and watch it closely. I'll also check the gap again. I can't feel any drag when I turn it by hand.
Another test is to heavily coat the bar with bar oil from the jug. Take the chain for a spin. Does it improve or not?? The results can be telling.
They were originally used as a pulp and brush bar. The idea was that with little to no bar, pinching was less frequent. It was kinda a fad. I am not positive about it but I think they outlawed making them.
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