Storage as Hydraulic Separator vs. True Primary Secondary

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rkusek

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Mar 19, 2008
589
Nebraska
[quote author="kabbott" date="1257034934"][quote author="Gooserider" date="1257033746"][quote author="huskers" date="1257030226"][quote author="Gooserider" date="1257026498"]
On the subject of plumbing for loops that flow in opposite directions, there was a thread a while back with a lot of debate about how best to do it. It seems the easiest / simplest / least expensive solution that developed was to just have one length of pipe with two pumps in it that face opposite directions, and wired so that only one pump could run at a time... According to Taco tech support, obviously as long as one doesn't use flow checks, the flow resistance of a non-running circ is essentially negligible, so you just run one circ to pump into the tank for charging, and the other to pump out of the tank for discharging... It avoided the relatively high cost of the multi-way valves (in most cases the pump was less), and was a simpler thing to plumb than any of the loops with check valve approaches.

Gooserider[/quote]

Thanks for the tip, I will search for that link. I was so focused on the pumps with the inline check valves, my mind didn't consider that option. So when boiler is hot the tank will be charging, when the boiler circ is off (ie. boiler less than 140*) and the temp at top of storage is adequate (probably 120* or greater) I could extract from the tank. When both of these are too cool then nothing will run and no reason to care about unwanted ghost flows. The key would be that the house loads would get first crack at the boiler water in the primary loop, then the barn's unit heaters, and finally storage.

I was going to use my 700' of 1.5 underground pex between home and barn as my primary loop but sending the hotest water from the boiler to the house first via pex makes me wonder if that is a good idea in the case of an overheat situation. I would not want to have to replace the underground pex! Plumbing to storage first would alleviate some of this concern, but probably give me cooler water at the water to air HX in the plenum when boiler is running. Question is how much cooler would it be. Unless I misunderstood, Heaterman did not see a problem with the "large" primary loop when we talked about it. Don L's system uses a small primary loop driving 2 more "primarys" but he has 3 locations to deal with. I could add a small primary loop in the barn and have another "primary" in the home similar to Don's but not sure if that is necessary. Anyone have thoughts on this? The basement of the home is located about 15 feet in elevation above the boiler and storage. This shouldn't affect pumping on a pressurized system but I wondered about expansion tank and air separator locations. I just want to do it right the first time.[/quote]

What I've heard of being done in some cases is to use the storage tank as a sort of giant sized hydraulic separator... Put a pipe at the top and bottom of each end of the tank (once plumbed together, stacked tanks can be considered as one big tank...) and pump hot in the top at one end, using the boiler pump and pull it out at the other with the house loop pump... If the house is pulling as many BTU's as the boiler is making, the water essentially goes straight across the top of the tank w/ minimal mixing. If the house is pulling less, the surplus automatically charges the tank. You could do the same thing with a big tee fitting at the top and bottom, but IMHO flowing through the tank might be better.... Essentially what this does is separate the house and other loads from the boiler - all the loads or the boiler sees is the tank. Aside from possibly taking a little longer to get heat when doing a total cold start, I think this is a really good way to deal with pressurized storage, as the tank gets the hottest water, but simply passes it on to the load when needed. You can then do copper or black iron between the tank and boiler, and pex from the tank outlets on. It also means that the loop from the boiler to storage should be short and low head so that one could use a small pump (I'd look at one of the temp responsive ECM pumps as that would allow ultra simple return protection as well)... Since the house loop then no longer has to deal with pumping through the boiler, (and the storage tank has virtually zero flow resistance) it might also be possible to downsize the house pump (and again look at some sort of speed control on that pump)

What I would do for expansion and air venting is put the main expansion tanks on the hot side boiler - storage loop, along with an air / dirt separator. I would put a second separator and possibly a small expansion tank at the highest point on the house loop. (The house loop could easily be a second PS loop or hydraulic separator setup depending on the nature of the house loads - but that is a totally separate design from the boiler / storage setup - essentially design it assuming you have a hot water supply and return pipe coming from "you care not where" and build around that...)

Gooserider


Gooserider[/quote]

That is the "hot" setup in my mind right now, although the "best setup" seems to change month to month with me as I learn new ideas.
Use the tank as the separator and if you have multiple pumps for loads you can use one tap on the tank and a manifold or multiple taps, one
for each pump.

Same on the charge side if you have more than one boiler. For fossil fuel boiler you can tie into the load side manifold so it will not heat the storage.

I'm sold...... now if I could only get a big tank in my basement![/quote]

Borrowed from another thread
 
Woops! I just lost what I have been writing. Well, starting all over. Thanks for feedback Goose and Kabbot. I was wondering if anyone in the Boiler Room is using this method currently. I was wondering how long it took to begin generating heat in the home after being gone 24-48 hrs.
 
Power failure/Overheat protection would seem easy to achieve with this option because of the direct boiler to storage connection and not needing an Automag or separate fin tube to dissapate heat. I believe Mole mentioned using a marine battery and 12V circ in paralled with boiler circ to handle a loss of power issue. Adding an aquastat to also activate the 12V circ would protect against overheating due to seize up or failure of the boiler circ which I believed someone on Hearth encountered last year. Mole reported he has 2 UPS devices that have failed and I myself have not had good luck with inverters, at least the el cheapo versions. A 12V Laing circ, a marine battery, trickle charger, and relay might be the more simple, more reliable, cost effective way to go to accomplish this. Preventing overheat damage to underground PEX would be easier as well since you could simply wire this circ not to run in this condition. Just let the 1000 gal of storage dissapate the heat until the boiler cools.
 
I was wondering if anyone in the Boiler Room is using this method currently. I was wondering how long it took to begin generating heat in the home after being gone 24-48 hrs.

Not uncommon in Europe. Hansson's system is hooked up like that. I've blathered on about the idea a few times in other posts on this forum. It's my plan to directly couple pressurized storage tank to the boiler, too.

If you use propane tanks with the stock piping it might take a long time to get useful heat out to the house loads. By welding in fittings at the appropriate places you can make it work with much less time lag from a cold start.
 
The 'simplest pressurized storage' sticky documents just such a system using tees near the top and bottom rather than going through the tank. As long as large diameter plumbing is used near the tank it should be hydraulically equivalent. I went with the tees to get slightly quicker response and avoid turbulence in the tank by reducing flow rates into and out of the tank. Not sure it makes much difference in actual practice.
 
nofossil said:
The 'simplest pressurized storage' sticky documents just such a system using tees near the top and bottom rather than going through the tank. As long as large diameter plumbing is used near the tank it should be hydraulically equivalent. I went with the tees to get slightly quicker response and avoid turbulence in the tank by reducing flow rates into and out of the tank. Not sure it makes much difference in actual practice.

Very true.

With a slick enough control system one could use multiple taps at different height's on the tank to send return water to so as not to send med temp water
to the cold(relative) bottom of the tank.

Maybe use a bottom tap for the return to the boiler and return medium temp water from loads at a higher point? Would also have some possibility's
with two tanks.I think this has been discussed before, any idea how effective it would. Worth the hassle?

I don't think it will qualify for "simplest" any more though.
 
I think I've seen someone mention having plumbed this way, and found that they pretty much got heat to the house as soon as the boiler started making enough heat to send anything past the return protection plumbing.

If you read the theory on how hydraulic separators work (There are some nice P&M magazine articles on it, or you can look at some of the "Idronics magazine" coverage on the Caleffi website) if the volume of water coming from the boiler is equal to the amount being pulled by the load, then there is little or no mixing in the separator, the water just flows straight across the top from boiler to house circuits.

As long as the tank is plumbed to minimize mixing from turbulence, stratification is your friend in this situation - you get hot water flowing into the top of the tank and it's going to stay there and flow across to where it will promptly get picked up by the intake for the house side. IOW, you only need to heat the first 3-4" of water in the tank...

As to putting the house return water back into the tank at different levels, I suppose it would be possible, but I really don't see a lot of advantage in doing so... Medium hot water coming into the tank (again assuming plumbing to minimize turbulence mixing) shouldn't disrupt the stratification that much, and won't do any harm to the extent that it does, as you will hopefully be heating the entire tank, or close to it, eventually in any case.

To the extent that the warm water goes straight across the bottom to go back to the boiler, this is a good thing, as it reduces the amount diverted by the boiler return protection, and gives more hot water to the main system.

Gooserider
 
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