Stove is in.... But not working correctly?

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Scrib

Member
Hearth Supporter
Feb 9, 2009
60
NW Indiana
So they stove (P68) started up fine and burned well. It was set at Room temp, feed rate four, temp 75 degrees. Now it has basically shut down, blower is still on and I can't get it to come back on. I've turned the dial to stove temp, with no luck. Turned the dial up to 90 degrees on room and stove temp, no luck. Moved the temp sensor no luck.

I have not heard the auger turn on and feed pellets since it's initial feeding.

Not good. Thoughts?
 
u unplug it? im not too sure on what ur stove looks like ...mine gives me a problem i unplug it resets it ...maybe?
 
Scrib said:
So they stove (P68) started up fine and burned well. It was set at Room temp, feed rate four, temp 75 degrees. Now it has basically shut down, blower is still on and I can't get it to come back on. I've turned the dial to stove temp, with no luck. Turned the dial up to 90 degrees on room and stove temp, no luck. Moved the temp sensor no luck.

I have not heard the auger turn on and feed pellets since it's initial feeding.

Not good. Thoughts?

I would suggest one of two options:

1. Call your dealer

2.Read your manual
 
Forgot to mention... They installed an OAK but didn't have any flex pipe for the outside component. So the stove is just pulling air from the inside. Doubt that matters.
 
try unplugging it, wait 10 secs, then plug it in again, but put the stove in room temp mode, about 1/2way between L and H, 90 degrees, feed rate at 3.5..............see if it restarts itself. If it doesnt, and the distribution blower runs without a fire, its a ESP probe issue....not really sure which blower you speak of though. Distribution, or combustion? Also, I wouldnt pay the money for an OAK without hooking the thing up....you can get a regular passthru thimble for 1/4 of the price.
 
Check to make sure OAK inlet pipe is clear to stove. Since they did not have the flex pipe they may not have removed the shipping material that is sometimes placed in there. There is a metal check plate in there that should be free to swivel. Also, move pellets out of the way in hopper and make sure the slide plate is not stuck open, jammed with with pellets. There is also a low draft sensor in the hopper, make sure it is connected to rubber tubing beneath, you will have to take rear panels off for this to see. Make sure ash hopper door is closed tightly. Other than trying to reset by unplugging like others suggested, not sure what else you can do, other than search this site for answers, and then call dealer on Monday. Good luck, quite the bummer to have problems right off the bat. Also check your control board and watch the indicator lights to see if they come on as per manual.
 
Unplugging The AC cord, as was suggested, to reset the control board was a good idea. One other thing that comes to mind, could it have shut down because the room temperature was reached? It would have been in auto to have shut down when room temperature was reached. Could the stove have possibly been put in manual after it had shut down?

Double check the stove. Make sure make sure the igniter switch is in auto. I don't know how the P68 doors work, but they have to be shut for the stove to feed pellet, and for the igniter to work. That would include the ash pan door, it has a separate ash door, right?

You can use the test function to further diagnose the trouble.
 
So I unplugged it and turned it to stove mode at 75 degrees and it's working just fine. So I'm guessing it has something to do with the ESP. I just switched it over to room mode at it's feeding just fine so it could have been a fluke. I moved the prove off the floor and it's sitting behind the unit currently.

My dealer did just call me (7pm central), and walked me through a couple of things. Mighty impressed given the time of day.

A nice 72 on the themostat on the first floor and actually 72 in our bedroom upstairs which is the further room away from the stove.

Minus what seems to have been an initial "glitch", I'm very impressed.
 
Good news for sure, hope its just a one time event.
 
Something is odd... On Room Temp, the stove seems to hum along just fine and then will seemingly slow its feed as it seems it thinks it's reaching the temp setting. However instead of acting in a way where when the room cools off and restarting itself, it just goes off completely. I have the ESP hanging right behind the stove (as most others seem to be doing).

Does the Room Temp setting tend to have the stove shut itself off for long periods? The odd thing is that I can't seem to get it going again when it goes into this shutdown mode.

No flashing lights, plenty of pellets.
 
Scrib said:
Something is odd... On Room Temp, the stove seems to hum along just fine and then will seemingly slow its feed as it seems it thinks it's reaching the temp setting. However instead of acting in a way where when the room cools off and restarting itself, it just goes off completely. I have the ESP hanging right behind the stove (as most others seem to be doing).

Does the Room Temp setting tend to have the stove shut itself off for long periods? The odd thing is that I can't seem to get it going again when it goes into this shutdown mode.

No flashing lights, plenty of pellets.

If the ignitor is in auto, the flame will eventually go out if the room temp is reached, and then come back on when the room temp requires it. (Page 15, 4th paragraph in your manual) If you put the ignitor in manual after start up the flame will always stay on, it will just go to a low flame, enough to stay lit. That's how I run mine, less wear and tear on ignitor, but more pellets burnt.
You say you have your ESP probe out? I hope you mean the temp probe, if your ESP probe is outside the exhaust pipe you'll have all sorts of problems, not to mention exhaust in the house. I'm sure you mean the temp probe. If your having trouble in room temp, try stove temp for a while, see what happens.
 
...and the stove hasn't fired in over an hour and is near-cool to the touch. In fact that furnace has kicked on in the house.
 
Make sure the thermocouple is still attached on back of stove for thermostat. Try unplugging again and restarting. Looks like you will be talking with your dealer again tomorrow. What did he tell you the first time he called? Try any of those tips yet?
 
Sadly I've tried everything. The stove is cool to the touch now and just won't start back up. I left it unplugged for a good 15 minutes and tried to get it going. The combustion fan just blows. No feeding, nothing.

This stinks.

bungalobob said:
Make sure the thermocouple is still attached on back of stove for thermostat. Try unplugging again and restarting. Looks like you will be talking with your dealer again tomorrow. What did he tell you the first time he called? Try any of those tips yet?
 
Scrib said:
Sadly I've tried everything. The stove is cool to the touch now and just won't start back up. I left it unplugged for a good 15 minutes and tried to get it going. The combustion fan just blows. No feeding, nothing.

This stinks.

bungalobob said:
Make sure the thermocouple is still attached on back of stove for thermostat. Try unplugging again and restarting. Looks like you will be talking with your dealer again tomorrow. What did he tell you the first time he called? Try any of those tips yet?

That sounds more like the vacuum switch than anything else. Try tapping the switch or jumping it.

Jay
 
Where would the switch be located?



jtakeman said:
Scrib said:
Sadly I've tried everything. The stove is cool to the touch now and just won't start back up. I left it unplugged for a good 15 minutes and tried to get it going. The combustion fan just blows. No feeding, nothing.

This stinks.

bungalobob said:
Make sure the thermocouple is still attached on back of stove for thermostat. Try unplugging again and restarting. Looks like you will be talking with your dealer again tomorrow. What did he tell you the first time he called? Try any of those tips yet?

That sounds more like the vacuum switch than anything else. Try tapping the switch or jumping it.

Jay
 
In the back of the stove. kinda looks like a tin can.

Harmon calls it the low pressure switch.

Could just be your draft setting is too low.

jay
 

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Well, here's the thing.

As I mentioned earlier in this thread, they were out of flex pipe to connect to the OAK. I know they punched out the area where the OAK pip connects to the stove.

So I thinker with this? How would I adjust my draft setting?

jtakeman said:
In the back of the stove. kinda looks like a tin can.

Harmon calls it the low pressure switch.

Could just be your draft setting is too low.

jay
 
Took a quick look in the manual. This is what i'm assuming.

FEEDER DOES NOT FEED
1. No pellets in hopper.

2. Firebox draft may be too low for low draft pressure switch in feeder circuit to operate. Check for closed doors, loose or missing gasket on doors or hopper lid, or a faulty pressure switch.

3. Feed motor will not run until the ESP control senses 165 deg. F. Maybe you did not put enough pellets in the burn pot before manually lighting the fire.

4. Something is restricting flow in the hopper or causing the slide plate to stick.

5. Feed motor has failed.

I'm hoping its one of those in #2. Check page 20 in the manual. It explains the draft adjustment.
jay
 
ok, so the stove shuts itself down when it gets the room to temperature (which its supposed to), and then wont restart itself? Im leaning toward a bad or dirty igniter, a screwy ESP probe (pretty likely), or a faulty gearmotor. When its SUPPOSED to start (the combustion fan starts), does it feed pellets as well, or do we just have the combustion fan coming on? If its not feeding pellets, then obviously theres nothing there to burn, so no fire, but you'd be getting a status light blink error. The vac switch does control whether the feeder feeds or not, but if its working and then stops? No. Vac switch issues are quite rare, actually.
 
Lousyweather said:
ok, so the stove shuts itself down when it gets the room to temperature (which its supposed to), and then wont restart itself? Im leaning toward a bad or dirty igniter, a screwy ESP probe (pretty likely), or a faulty gearmotor. When its SUPPOSED to start (the combustion fan starts), does it feed pellets as well, or do we just have the combustion fan coming on? If its not feeding pellets, then obviously theres nothing there to burn, so no fire, but you'd be getting a status light blink error. The vac switch does control whether the feeder feeds or not, but if its working and then stops? No. Vac switch issues are quite rare, actually.

ESP probe you would get a blink error. low draft switch might not get an error.

From what he's saying is it just has the fan running, ESP probe the stove would start and then go out and give a blink code.

jay
 
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