Stove overheat then not receiving power to control board :(

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That looks like a fried auger motor but what caused the frying?

Get the folks that are responsible for the warranty work to handle the mess.

ETA: Posting back and forth here over long time spans isn't going to be an easy way to find the cause of your problem. There are many questions we will need answers to, for example:

Have you bypassed the high limit switch?
Have you removed any of the wiring in the stove and then reconnected it? If so which wires?
Have you replaced any components on the stove with other than stock parts? If so which parts?
How do you do your stove cleaning?
What is the order and type of vent parts starting at the stove adapter and ending at the termination cap?
If there is a horizontal run in the venting what is the rise per foot?
We can take things back to the installation and come forward but the back and forth must be faster than 12 days between responses.
 
So I took the auger motor out and i don't know much about motors but the melted tape and burn marks seem to be what is causing the problem. What do you guys think?View attachment 66216View attachment 66217

Hi Krattigan

I would check the auger by rotating it by hand. If the auger sticks or snags, that can kill an auger motor. So check the auger flight tube to make sure it is clean and clear and smooth. Then check the auger itself to assure there is no carbon buildup or metal burrs from manufacturing flaws!
 
Thanks everyone,
I did manually turn the auger and cleaned it....seemed fine.

Have you bypassed the high limit switch? no
Have you removed any of the wiring in the stove and then reconnected it? If so which wires? when the hopper switch is removed is doesn't blow a fuse but the auger also doesn't work as a wire from the auger goes to that hopper switch.
Have you replaced any components on the stove with other than stock parts? If so which parts? control board. stove is new NOV 2011
How do you do your stove cleaning? every week. clean vent every ton /1/2. fan etc...very clean..
What is the order and type of vent parts starting at the stove adapter and ending at the termination cap? straight horizontal vent very simple.
If there is a horizontal run in the venting what is the rise per foot? only 3 feet total
We can take things back to the installation and come forward but the back and forth must be faster than 12 days between responses. sorry for the delayed response I went out west for a week:) (alot warmer out there)
 
Thanks everyone,
I did manually turn the auger and cleaned it....seemed fine.

Have you bypassed the high limit switch? no
Have you removed any of the wiring in the stove and then reconnected it? If so which wires? when the hopper switch is removed is doesn't blow a fuse but the auger also doesn't work as a wire from the auger goes to that hopper switch.
Have you replaced any components on the stove with other than stock parts? If so which parts? control board. stove is new NOV 2011
How do you do your stove cleaning? every week. clean vent every ton /1/2. fan etc...very clean..
What is the order and type of vent parts starting at the stove adapter and ending at the termination cap? straight horizontal vent very simple.
If there is a horizontal run in the venting what is the rise per foot? only 3 feet total
We can take things back to the installation and come forward but the back and forth must be faster than 12 days between responses. sorry for the delayed response I went out west for a week:) (alot warmer out there)

Sounds like the wiring going through the hopper switch and the high limit snap disc to the auger is incorrect or you have a damaged snap disc, hopper switch, or shorted out auger motor. If you have a multimeter you can check each of those parts.

ETA: Even that short 3' horizontal section needs at least a 1/4" per foot rise. Two things can happen when the rise isn't there, the ash builds up faster and under a number of conditions the stove can overheat.
ETA2: I'm out of here until tomorrow sometime.
 
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