Stove Pad

[TimberGhost]

I was pricing pads to put under my woodstove and they seem very expensive for what you're getting. Is there something else I could use? It will be setting on a rug. Not trying to cut corners or be cheap just looking for alternatives! Thanks!

 

[Pagey]

Make sure you check the manufacturer's documentation to see if your stove requires only "ember protection" or a specific R-value.

 

[Highbeam]

Of course, you can make your own. Cost will be very low but you lose the perfect construction and often the portability of the premade pads. You can certainly build or set your pad on carpet but be warned, that carpet might never recover from being smashed so hard for so long.

So many possibilities with tile, slate, glass, metal. Raised hearth, low hearth, flush with flooring, whatever.

 

[firefighterjake]

+1 to Highbeam . . . build your own . . . save money and you can take pride in your work. They are surprisingly easy to build . . . even for a novice DIYer.

 

[Highbeam]

If you later decide it sucks, build another. Setting tile is a valuable skill and the only way to learn is with experience.

 

[BobUrban]

Cut out the carpet under the hearth pad and build one. Very inexpensive, a miriad of options and your carpet will not survive the footprint even if you don't cut it out. You are building a fire inside your house - might as well do it right.

Do a search here for hearth photos - lots and lots of options.

 

[Highbeam]

The only trouble with cutting out the carpet is that now you have that ragged edge sticking up, maybe you didn't cut it right, maybe the dog got a hold and pulled it up. The correct way is to have a carpet layer come in and apply tack strip and cut the carpet but that's expensive.

I would just put a portable pad (homemade or not) right on the carpet. If you are building a permanent hearth then hire the carpet guy. There is no safety hazard associated with carpet under the hearth.

 

[fossil]

What appliance is it you're planning to install, and what does the manufacturer say about hearth protection required beneath the appliance? Let's get that basic information out here and go from there. Rick

 

[dylskee]

If you later decide it sucks, build another. Setting tile is a valuable skill and the only way to learn is with experience.

I said the same exact thing to my wife, with materials I will be at about $80.00 and if it looks like crap it will do for a year until I make another one and this time with a little help.......

 

[charly]

I said the same exact thing to my wife, with materials I will be at about $80.00 and if it looks like crap it will do for a year until I make another one and this time with a little help.......

My cut used brick is what drove my hearth build up, but that's the look I wanted as there is brick already on the back wall, of course the new brick won't match the brick that's been on the back wall exactly , but will still look fine. I probably could have gotten full brick cheaper but didn't want all that weight.

 

[borderbows]

Just finished mine this weekend. Mine is free floating (not anchored to the floor) it consists of 2 layers of Hardibacker laminated with tile thinset, 3/8" bed of thinset and porcelain tiles. I bordered it with a 3/4" quarter round solid oak molding to match existing hardwood floor. Granted I am a building contractor and have been doing this stuff for almost 30 years but, I figured it may give you some thoughts. Measurements for mine are 60" wide x 44" deep to meet specs for my stove. Hope this helps.

 

[borderbows]

Oh ya... Pic might help eh?

 

[borderbows]

Cost for all materials was $140.00. Cheers.

 

[TimberGhost]

Cost for all materials was $140.00. Cheers.

Thanks for the replies! I guess I should have mentioned this is not for a nice home, but for my old cabin which I'm temporary living in. And where I'm putting the stove is only temporary also till I get to rework the fireplace sometime next year. It's a Lopi Endeavor and the guys at the stove store said a stove board underneath would be fine. So basically I'm looking for an alternative to just stoveboard. A plain stoveboard costs about $67.00 which seems expensive. I've already spent a small fortune on the triple wall pipe and other parts.

 

[charly]

Question: Can I just apply mortar to the back of my bricks and apply them to my cement board so I can see my layout lines, instead of on the board as well?

 

[begreen]

TimberGhost, what stove is this for? That is going to determine what is required. Don't go cheap on protection, some stoves need a lot, some just minimal.

Charly, is this for the 5700? It needs a minimum of R = .59. Brick is .45, Durock NextGen is .39, so you are good. Can you use a string on nails to provide a temporary string line guide?

Note that 2 layers of hardibacker is going to provide low R value insulation. If the insert or stove requires greater than R = .4 this would be insufficient.

 

[charly]

TimberGhost, what stove is this for? That is going to determine what is required. Don't go cheap on protection, some stoves need a lot, some just minimal.

Charly, is this for the 5700? It needs a minimum of R = .59. Brick is .45, Durock NextGen is .39, so you are good. Can you use a string on nails to provide a temporary string line guide?

Note that 2 layers of hardibacker is going to provide low R value insulation. If the insert or stove requires greater than R = .4 this would be insufficient.

Your a busy guy! No it's for my Fireview. Specs said 3/4 ply, 1/2 inch Durock and tile or brick. 5700 is going to be a future garage heater. I have lines already drawn out . Loose laid some brick with spacers down the sides and made my marks. Then squared up things by transferring one side measurements to the other. Didn't want to get done and see everything going at a slight angle. Guess I'll just trowel a center strip of mortar between the lines and then spread it carefully with my notched trowel, not letting it quite touch the lines. First time laying stone, should be interesting. I just won't get ahead of myself mixing too much or spreading too much out on the board until I get a system down. I want to have time to level the bricks as I go as well. I guess the mix is the important part.