STOVE PIPE DIAMETER

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

Broncobear

New Member
Mar 11, 2022
1
Ventura, CA
I have an old wood burning stove that I'd like to disassemble, powdercoat, reassemble, and install.
It has an 8" outlet. I plan to use 8" damper at base, and run 8" stove pipe to about 24" below the ceiling.
I have a 10" insulated thru-ceiling outlet to outside above roof. Double wall to 24" below ceiling. An 8"-10" increaser/adapter will be attached below it. Also, I'm looking for the 3" gold balls that go on the top surface, front corners, please post if available.
Will opening the last section at top 2" larger from 8" to 10" be OK for flow?

20220311_130620[1].jpg

20220311_130620[1].jpg
 
I have an old wood burning stove that I'd like to disassemble, powdercoat, reassemble, and install.
It has an 8" outlet. I plan to use 8" damper at base, and run 8" stove pipe to about 24" below the ceiling.
I have a 10" insulated thru-ceiling outlet to outside above roof. Double wall to 24" below ceiling. An 8"-10" increaser/adapter will be attached below it. Also, I'm looking for the 3" gold balls that go on the top surface, front corners, please post if available.
Will opening the last section at top 2" larger from 8" to 10" be OK for flow?

View attachment 293396

View attachment 293396
Honestly I wouldn't spend the time or money on a Franklin stove like that. They are pretty low quality and extremely inefficient
 
Powder coat? I hope that's a typo. I don't know how hot that stove would run, but it would likely smoke the powder coat.
 
Powder coat? I hope that's a typo. I don't know how hot that stove would run, but it would likely smoke the powder coat.
There are powder coatings that could stand up to the temps but they are very expensive. Largely because the parts then need to be fired at such a high temp.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Isaac Carlson
Most high temp ceramic powder coats are designed to reflect heat. I suppose that's why you see some jacketed stoves with the outer jacket powder coated. Off the shelf powder coats are good to 200-300 degrees. In any event I would guess you would be pushing the cost of a newer stove having it done. I think a set of headers cost $300-400 to ceramic coat. Trouble with that stove is you have maybe $50 in scrap. Add in the cost of powder coating and you have a $1000 stove worth $50 in scrap.
 
There are powder coatings that could stand up to the temps but they are very expensive. Largely because the parts then need to be fired at such a high temp.
Seems like paint would be the logical choice, or stove blacking. You could add a baffle and air tubes and maybe have s decent stove. I don't know how tight those doors close.
 
Seems like paint would be the logical choice, or stove blacking. You could add a baffle and air tubes and maybe have s decent stove. I don't know how tight those doors close.
They don't close tight at all there also isn't much room in the top for a baffle and tubes
 
These things usually leak like a sieve. It's designed more as a fireplace than a stove. There are much better old stoves worth investing time and money in if the goal is to add secondary combustion.
 
begreen has got a point. and the stove pictured is white meaning it has been continually over fired meaning the metal is very brittle