Stove Pipe Help - 2 1/2 Story Through Attic

[dskansas]

This is my first post so be easy on me please....lol. I've searched the forum and have seen a lot of tips and good advice but nothing specific to my setup. So here is what I am facing and would appreciate any and all advice:

Stove: Going to pick up a gently used Woodstock Fireview this weekend. Has all new gaskets and newer SS catalyst.

House: Recently purchased 2 1/2 story 1887 Victorian. Has two coal burning fireplaces but the chimneys have been knocked down below roof level inside the 1/2 story attic. They are still intact and in great condition from there to the fireplaces. They are not lined.

Climate: Southcentral Kansas

Plans: Place Fireview in front of coal fireplace and run stove pipe up through existing brick chimney and out the roof. This particular room would exit straight through the ridge if that is what I wanted. I do know i could box it in and go that route but they want entirely too much for the ridge flashing to accommodate that. Easier and cheaper to do a couple of 15 deg bends and go out through the roof.

I would like to use single wall stove pipe from the Fireview up through the chimney until the chimney stops in the 1/2 story attic. From there I am thinking of going to double wall through the rest of the open 1/2 attic and through the roof and 2 ft above the highest point.

Keep in mind that each of the first two floors have 10 ft ceilings and the 1/2 story is about 8 ft to where I am going to exit the roof so I am trying to keep costs down while still being safe.

Let me know if I am on the right track or not, what you have done or would do, pipe dia for that long of a run, etc....

I used an existing wood stove in my country house the past 22 years so I know what and how to burn just not sure on exactly how to set this one up.

Thanks in advance,
Dennis

 

[DAKSY]

The chimneys should be inspected by a Certified Sweep before you start. You need to determine if what's left of them is safe to use. If they are, you will have to run a Stainless Steel liner (NOT SINGLE WALL PIPE, per se) up thru the existing flue to the top of the masonry chimney. At that point you will have to use a Liner to Class A Adapter which will need to be anchored to the masonry somehow. From there you can run the Class A thru the flashing on the roof. The offsets will need to be supported with stapping or bracing. The pitch of your roof will determine how much Class A will be visible above it. You may need additional bracing, depending on that amount.

 

[dskansas]

Bob, thanks for the reply. So what is the advantage of the liner over sections of pipe other than being flexible and having no seams? Also what diameter of the stainless liner would you recommend for the Fireview stove and a run of around 25 ft?

 

[DAKSY]

A liner is MEANT to be installed in a terra cotta lined chimney. Normal 22 gage connector pipe is designed to be exposed to the air & not confined in a small space. It won't stand up to the heat. If the diameter of the Fireview flue collar is 6" then that is what you want to run.

 

[dskansas]

Got it, thanks! I'll start shopping around for 6" SS liner or liner kit that will work for my setup. Then I will go from that to a Class A adapter at the top of the chimney in the attic space and from there use Class A chimney pipe to go out the roof and 2 ft above my peak and cap it off. Thanks again for the info and being a patriot guard. I'm recently retired after 27 years of Army National Guard.

 

[DAKSY]

Got it, thanks! I'll start shopping around for 6" SS liner or liner kit that will work for my setup. Then I will go from that to a Class A adapter at the top of the chimney in the attic space and from there use Class A chimney pipe to go out the roof and 2 ft above my peak and cap it off. Thanks again for the info and being a patriot guard. I'm recently retired after 27 years of Army National Guard.

Thank YOU for YOUR service & MY freedom!

 

[dskansas]

It was a true privilege and my honor to be able to serve.

 

[bholler]

I agree with everything dansky said but would like to add that you need to make sure the flues are cleaned well to get as much of the coal residue out it is very acidic and can eat stainless. And you should insulate the liner as well most old chimneys have very poor clearance to combustibles on the outside of the masonry so it is much safer if you insulate the liner. Also have you confirmed that there is room in the chimney for a liner many old coal fireplace flues were very small and it might be hard to fit a liner.

 

[dskansas]

I agree with everything dansky said but would like to add that you need to make sure the flues are cleaned well to get as much of the coal residue out it is very acidic and can eat stainless. And you should insulate the liner as well most old chimneys have very poor clearance to combustibles on the outside of the masonry so it is much safer if you insulate the liner. Also have you confirmed that there is room in the chimney for a liner many old coal fireplace flues were very small and it might be hard to fit a liner.

The space I have to work with inside the existing chimney is right at 9" x 9". I've taken out the damper after I decided I would never use it as a fireplace so it's pretty much a straight shot up the chimney. What would you recommend I use for the insulation? Loose fibreglass? Thanks!

 

[DAKSY]

The space I have to work with inside the existing chimney is right at 9" x 9". I've taken out the damper after I decided I would never use it as a fireplace so it's pretty much a straight shot up the chimney. What would you recommend I use for the insulation? Loose fibreglass? Thanks!

Most installers use a foil faced wrap, which is held in place with a wire mesh. The problem with older chimneys is the uneven edges & globs of protruding mortar make it almost impossible to get an insulated liner down through them without compromising the insulation. Other folks use a poured slurry of Thermix or a similar product AFTER the liner is in place, the problem with this method is that it's difficult to ensure that recommended the 1" of insulation between the liner & the chimney is achieved. You need a reputable chimney sweep to clean & inspect your chimneys, & he will probably have a preferred method of insulating liners...

 

[bholler]

the insulation wrap should get covered in a stainless mesh to protect it. We generally do not pour insulation for small liners in fireplaces because it would be more difficult to go back to a fireplace later if anyone wanted to. that and it is hard to seal the bottom well enough to stop all insulation leakage

 

[dskansas]

Looks like the Thermix might be the cheaper route to go. According to the calculation chart I used online I would need just short of three bags. I know I can come up with some rings every so often to keep the liner centered as best I can and get 1" to 2" of insulation around it. If it ends up getting to be too much of a pita I will go with the foil faced wrap. Thanks again guys!

 

[bholler]

we do thermix all the time but it is hard and takes experince to keep it centered but if you are going to use rings it should be fine

 

[dskansas]

Ok guys, decided to just use the insulation wrap so I'm good to go there. Plus I am going to get the 6" liner kit that will have everything I need up to where I connect the chimney pipe. I do have one last question though. Since my chimney liner and brick will stop about 3 ft from where it goes through the roof peak in the attic, do you recommend double wall from there on to the chimney cap, double wall from there to just before it exits the roof and triple wall on out, or triple wall all the way. We are talking around 6 ft total.

Thanks!

 

[DAKSY]

You'll need an item similar to this at the top of your masonry:

(broken link removed)

From there you run Class A chimney, thru the roof flashing & a storm collar to the cap.
You need to get the adapter plate, storm collar, cap & Class A chimney from the same manufacturer.
The flashings are pretty generic.

 

[dskansas]

Well I was looking at a kit like this one that appeared to have everything but the Class A chimney pipe.

(broken link removed to http://www.woodlanddirect.com/316Ti-Chimney-Champion-Easy-Flex-Chimney-Liner-Kit-3in?gdftrk=gdfV23673_a_7c1677_a_7c8224_a_7c2529980&gclid=CMOj-cn7i8ECFYZzMgoduFYA5g)

 

[DAKSY]

It doesn't have the anchor plate. It has a plate to secure to the top of the masonry. The liner is attached to that & then the small liner cap is mounted on, usually with a twist-lock mechanism. The anchor plate has the liner attached to the bottom of it, but the top of it is a receiver for the first section of Class A.

 

[dskansas]

I'm tracking now. Thanks again and I apologize for my ignorance on the subject.

 

[dskansas]

You'll need an item similar to this at the top of your masonry:

(broken link removed)

From there you run Class A chimney, thru the roof flashing & a storm collar to the cap.
You need to get the adapter plate, storm collar, cap & Class A chimney from the same manufacturer.
The flashings are pretty generic.

Oh and links to each one of these would be great so I can make absolutely sure that I'm comparing apples to apples. Thanks!

 

[DAKSY]

OK. You already have the Anchor Plate.
Here's the rest:

Class A
(broken link removed)

In order for me to determine EXACTLY what you need, you will have to tell me the pitch of the roof & how far below the underside of the roof the masonry ends.

Flashing
(broken link removed)

Again, the pitch of your roof will determine which one you need.

Storm Collar
(broken link removed)

Cap
(broken link removed)

Roof Brace Kit
(broken link removed)

This may be required if you extend more than 5 feet out of the roof. Again, dependent upon the pitch.

That is what you need, but not necessarily from this particular manufacturer. Shop around and see what kind of pricing hearth shops & big box stores will give you. The Woodmans site has pricing so you can comparison shop...

 

[dskansas]

OK. You already have the Anchor Plate.
Here's the rest:

Class A
(broken link removed)

In order for me to determine EXACTLY what you need, you will have to tell me the pitch of the roof & how far below the underside of the roof the masonry ends.

Flashing
(broken link removed)

Again, the pitch of your roof will determine which one you need.

Storm Collar
(broken link removed)

Cap
(broken link removed)

Roof Brace Kit
(broken link removed)

This may be required if you extend more than 5 feet out of the roof. Again, dependent upon the pitch.

That is what you need, but not necessarily from this particular manufacturer. Shop around and see what kind of pricing hearth shops & big box stores will give you. The Woodmans site has pricing so you can comparison shop...

This is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks a bunch! The roof is a 12/12 pitch and the masonry is currently inches below the peak but I plan to knock it down a couple of feet so I have room to feed the liner down from the attic. I can't imagine trying to do that at the edge of a 2 1/2 story Victorian with a 12/12 pitch roof. That is why I am going to hire out the installation of the flashing, storm collar, cap and outside Class A pipe.

Here is what I found with a quick search for a 12/12 flashing. http://www.woodstoves-fireplaces.com/security-6-8/12-12/12-peak-flashing/

 

[bholler]

What ever you do just make sure all of the class a components are the same brand. Well i guess the flashing doesnt really matter if it is the same but all other components need to be the same

 

[dskansas]

What ever you do just make sure all of the class a components are the same brand. Well i guess the flashing doesnt really matter if it is the same but all other components need to be the same

I sure will. I'll get the anchor plate, Class A pipe, storm collar, and Cap all from the same company. I don't think I will need the roof brace kit since it will just be about 2 ft above and 2 ft below the peak. Orschelens is fairly close and has everything for a reasonable price.

 

[dskansas]

Hey guys what about the Tee-Connection from the stove to the liner, does it have to be anything special? Single wall, double wall, triple wall insulated?

 

[bholler]

That depends on your clearance to combustibles it is usually singe wall though. If it is easily accessible black pipe is ok if not use stainless