Stove pipe routing question.

[MAD777]

I'm considering the following setup for my 1st floor, corner installed woodstove, with top exit and up through a chase in the 2nd floor to the roof.

Any problems with two 45° bends, resulting in an 'S' curve, going from the stove top to the ceiling nearer the wall? Double wall pipe, BTW.

That would make the chase in the corner of the 2nd floor much smaller and allow what I think is a more efficient draft by exiting the top, rather than back of the stove and, avoiding any 90° bends.

I'm starting construction of a new house and this is my first woodstove.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[begreen]

Top exit is good. An offset using 45s is fine. That said, if this is new house construction, look at tweeking things to avoid the offset if possible.

What stove is going in? The new stove will need fully seasoned wood. If hardwood that can mean 2 yrs after it has been split and stacked.

 

[MAD777]

The stove is a Woodstock Ideal Steel Hybrid.
While I have a bit of wood stockpiled already, it will be only enough for some supplemental heat this year.
I do have a significant supply of wood for the future to minimize my propane bills. But I must wait patiently for that.
Being a skeptic, the only way I would buy "seasoned" wood is to check the actual load with a moisture meter.

 

[begreen]

It's worth considering rear-vent to an elbow or cleanout tee for the stove. With a 2 story flue there should be plenty of draft and it would neaten/simplify the installation.

Stay skeptical on purchased wood. If the wood is advertised as seasoned, it's a good idea to check some splits off the truck before it is unloaded.

 

[MAD777]

Let me thank you and everyone here for an amazing education on woodstoves and their use!
I've been more than lurking, I'm reading every post for a year!

I will consider an out the back with a 90 or a Tee. It will look better aesthetically, in my opinion.
My hesitation to go that route stems from me wanting the more efficient top exit.

But, as you say, I'm going to have a very long, interior chimney. So, draft shouldn't really be a problem, theoretically.
Perhaps too much draft and I'll need a damper.

I have a local stove shop that will do a professional install. They have three sweeps on staff.
I will discuss the pros & cons of my particular installation with them.

I am recently retired, so my main occupation will be to stockpile firewood. That should keep me active!

 

[begreen]

Ask Woodstock, but I don't think the rear-exit will affect efficiency with decent draft, especially if double-wall stove pipe is used.

 

[MAD777]

I'll talk with them. Yes, it's 6" double wall stove pipe and Class A double wall through the 2nd floor chase and out.

The elbow behind the stove would be more attractive. Multiple visible bends won't fit the modern style of of the house.

I scanned the internet looking for the dimensions of a 6" double walled elbow, but couldn't find it. I suspect that the elbow will be my critical clearance point and therefore dictate the hearth size. That particular stove can be quite close in a corner installation.

Thank you!

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[bholler]

I'll talk with them. Yes, it's 6" double wall stove pipe and Class A double wall through the 2nd floor chase and out.

The elbow behind the stove would be more attractive. Multiple visible bends won't fit the modern style of of the house.

I scanned the internet looking for the dimensions of a 6" double walled elbow, but couldn't find it. I suspect that the elbow will be my critical clearance point and therefore dictate the hearth size. That particular stove can be quite close in a corner installation.

Thank you!

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

You want a tee not an elbow on the back of the stove. It allows some space for dirt to fall and collect before it starts to restrict things.

 

[begreen]

Most stove pipe and chimney catalogs have product dimensions. Here are DuraVent DVL tee dimensions.

The tee may need an adapter. If so, that will add 4" depth. Ask Woodstock which double-wall stove pipe connects directly to the stove or get the ID and OD of the rear flue collar from them.

 

[MAD777]

You want a tee not an elbow on the back of the stove. It allows some space for dirt to fall and collect before it starts to restrict things.

Ahhh! That makes perfect sense.
It's the little things that count!

I think I'll size the hearth for the Tee plus the connector. That way I'm good to go.

Is it a good idea to go ahead and get the connector with the damper in it to begin with? I think my chimney length from the stove top to the cap will be about 25 feet.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

 

[bholler]

Ahhh! That makes perfect sense.
It's the little things that count!

I think I'll size the hearth for the Tee plus the connector. That way I'm good to go.

Is it a good idea to go ahead and get the connector with the damper in it to begin with? I think my chimney length from the stove top to the cap will be about 25 feet.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

At 25 feet you probably wont need a pipe damper and they make it a pita to clean from the ground. So personally i wouldnt do it.

 

[MAD777]

I cannot express how grateful I am for this forum and you guys. It has given me the confidence to go with a wood stove. I've studied the forum for a year, knowing how important the information here is. Without it, I would probably end up burning my house down!

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk