Stovepipe-cleanout T setup question

[Abunker11]

Hi- I want to connect my stove to the metalbestos insulated pipe that once connected to my old oil furnace. Common sense tells me to come off the top of my stove vertically and then angle into the horizontal flue opening, leaving the downward facing opening for cleanout.

I guess I have a few questions related to this. One problem with this approach is that the T section is not square to the room. I have loosened the band and tried rotating it but it is made to lock together in certain positions and I don't think it can be improved...unless I could support the pipe and detach the bracket from the joists and see if there is any play that would allow some degrees rotation. There must be a better way to allow my stove to be connected so it is square to the room and without odd angles to let it meet up with the horizontal opening. Any ideas? Please see photo which hopefully shows how the T is angled as well as the brackets attached to the joists.

Another related question has to do with different ways cleanouts can work. My stove is a quadrafire 4300 and I believe I read somewhere that if the fiber blanket is removed then you can sweep your pipe directly into the firebox for easy removal of the creosote. So in this scenario using the downward facing opening would make sense. If so then I could eliminate the T altogether and therefore the off angle. I would need to angle away from the wall to give the stove some clearance but that would be fine I think.

And a 3rd question is, "what would make it easiest for a professional to cleanout?"

 

[begreen]

That spray foam insulation concerns me. Wood stove flue temps will be much hotter than an oil furnace. It looks like the joist space above the firestop might be filled with foam. Is it touching the chimney pipe? What is the path and sealing of the rest of the chimney pipe? Does it go through another floor(s)?

If you use double-wall for the connector the rear of the stove clearance is 5.5". How close it the chimney pipe to the wall? What is the wall made of?

 

[Abunker11]

The joist space is not filled with foam but I did spray in firestop foam to seal penetrations in floor/ceiling including spaces between the metal firestop and the wood where there were big gaps. I did get carried away with the fun of foaming and sealed around the pipe and then, after double checking with an inspector, removed that so no foam touches the stove pipe. I am having a DV gas fireplace installed directly above. The stove pipe is insulated metalbestos SS II rated to 2100 degrees. It has the metal firestop panel for both floor penetrations. Pictures of the 1st floor and ceiling attached. The pipe runs up through the 2nd floor also and then 6' above the roof so about 27 ft total.

The stove pipe in the basement is close to the wall. The cement foundation is 33" tall and would be about 2" from the pipe if it extended straight down.The stud wall has about 4.5 inches of clearance so I am expecting to use cement board or metal shielding on metal spacers to cover the stud wall. I have had a certified installer take a look and say it could be done safely. Thanks for the concern. What do you think?

 

[bholler]

As long as the foam is not with in 2" you are ok the stud wall being 4.5 from the pipe if you are referring to the connecter pipe will be a problem i dont know of a way to get that close

 

[begreen]

Good to know the foam is clear of the chimney pipe. For the connector 4.5" is too close, even for double-wall. You could put a double-45 elbow offset to bring it out 6". Or if the inspecting authority approves a ventilated wall shield in writing, then that should suffice.

 

[Abunker11]

Good to know the foam is clear of the chimney pipe. For the connector 4.5" is too close, even for double-wall. You could put a double-45 elbow offset to bring it out 6". Or if the inspecting authority approves a ventilated wall shield in writing, then that should suffice.

It sounds like you are saying that the existing metalbestos pipe is okay at 4.5 inches but the connector pipe would need to angle away from the wall. Maybe plan A, connecting to the horizontal opening would provide a greater margin of safety. Then the downward facing opening could remain as a clean out. I guess I need to understand the difference with the connector pipe and why even if it is double wall it needs a greater distance than the existing stove pipe.

 

[bholler]

Using the horizontal would work fine. The existing pipe is not stove pipe it is an insulated chimney which only requires 2" of clearance while bare pipe need 18" and double wall connector pipe needs 6"

 

[Abunker11]

Using the horizontal would work fine. The existing pipe is not stove pipe it is an insulated chimney which only requires 2" of clearance while bare pipe need 18" and double wall connector pipe needs 6"

Ok. Thank you for explaining the terminology. So it sounds like it would be possible and safe to add one or two 45 degree insulated chimney elbows with maybe a short straight insulated piece in between thrown in for good measure to get the stove further from the wall if needed. Hopefully they still make a product that connects to this metalbestos.

Back to one of the other questions. Does it make sense to connect so that when I sweep the chimney from above the creosote lands directly in the quadrafire stove, after I remove the fiber blanket of course? Or does it make more sense to leave the downward facing opening for cleanout purposes even if the horizontal opening of the T is 10 or so degrees off kilter from the room? It seems like cleaning directly into the stove would be simpler and neater since all the dust would be self contained.

 

[bholler]

straight up out of the stove is best when possible but you should pull the blanket and baffle first so you don't damage them

 

[Abunker11]

straight up out of the stove is best when possible but you should pull the blanket and baffle first so you don't damage them

So to sweep directly into my stove if I remove the T and connect to the next higher section I have 36" of rise to play with so I could go straight up for a foot or foot and a half. It's hard to calculate without the parts in hand to play with. But to get the proper clearance to the stud wall I will need 2 elbows. I would think it impossible to sweep through 2 90's. But 2-30degree elbows sounds plausible to sweep through. If the T opening were square to the room I would probably just connect with stove pipe to that and use the other to sweep into if I could do that without creating a sooty mess in my basement. Is there a Feng Shui thread somewhere? ha ha!