Stovepipe Connection Question

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mtudee

New Member
Dec 10, 2019
7
michigan
So I currently have a Dutchwest federal airtight in my walk-out basement (connected to an external masonry chimney) that I want to replace the single wall stovepipe with double wall as it gets some creosote build up (chimney itself generally does not). Currently my piping is as follows: The stovepipe goes up 24", there is a 90 degree elbow, then a ~17" T section that ends a few inches into the wall. Inside the wall, connected to that is another ~16" section of single wall black stovepipe that goes to the insulated stainless liner in my masonry chimney. The wall is interior brick surround, pour concrete, and then the brick chimney, so there is nothing flammable to worry about.

This seems like a really odd through-wall setup, with a connection in the wall (pieces not screwed together, just slid together). Any suggestions on how to make this wall piping/adapter connection better?

Thanks,

Andrew
 
33" of horizontal pipe is going to slow flue gases a lot. If it is in direct contact with the stovepipe then the masonry may be robbing heat too. This can build up creosote quickly.

Can you post some pictures of the setup?
 
Here are some photos. Chimney is 20' tall, draft hasn't been much of an issue once I get it started.

IMG_20191210_162410.jpg IMG_20191210_162453.jpg IMG_20191210_162525.jpg IMG_20191210_162519.jpg
 
That is pretty greasy looking pipe. Sealing up air leaks will help. Is the pipe inside the chimney a smaller diameter, like 6"? Does the cap on the tee right before the thimble sealed tightly?

What temperature is the stove normally run at?

Does the stove have the rear heat shield attached? If not, the wall clearances appear to be inadequate.
 
Everything is 8" pipe. It's a cat stove, if the cat is engaged it's gets up to a good temp, say 1000-1200. If not engaged the cat temp probe is 500-600.

The cap on the T seals well. I measured clearances and they are within spec, but everything behind the stove is brick over cement so nothing combustible.

Mostly I am wondering if I can run double wall all the way to the connection at the chimney liner, and if so would it just fit together? I've found some though-wall masonry adapters, but they are too short and wouldn't reach.

Thanks for your help.

Andrew
 
Everything is 8" pipe. It's a cat stove, if the cat is engaged it's gets up to a good temp, say 1000-1200. If not engaged the cat temp probe is 500-600.

The cap on the T seals well. I measured clearances and they are within spec, but everything behind the stove is brick over cement so nothing combustible.

Mostly I am wondering if I can run double wall all the way to the connection at the chimney liner, and if so would it just fit together? I've found some though-wall masonry adapters, but they are too short and wouldn't reach.
You should connect stainless to the tee snout and bring it out of the wall. Why do you have that tee at the wall?
 
You could do this with a double-wall connector but in that short run I don't think it will make a lot of difference, especially if the flue temps leaving the stove are very cool.
 
You should connect stainless to the tee snout and bring it out of the wall. Why do you have that tee at the wall.

So you are saying install a stainless pipe from the liner in the chimney through the wall to the inside of the house? Then run my stovepipe to to that?
 
So you are saying install a stainless pipe from the liner in the chimney through the wall to the inside of the house? Then run my stovepipe to to that?
Yes that is how it should have been done from the start. It is actually required
 
Ok, i'll look into that. this is how everything was setup when I purchased the house. Should that be an insulated stainless pipe then?
It doesn't have to be insulated but I typically stuff insulation around it