Stovepipe won't fit through Thimble/opening....

[irva]

Hi Group,
I just started installing a newly ordered Stainless Steel Chimney Liner Kit last Friday, but then ran into a problem.
I got the 15' section of S.S. Liner Pipe, down the chimney, from the roof, along with the vertical section of the connector Tee on the bottom.
The problem occurred, when I tried to "slide the horizontal 10 inch section of the connector Tee through the Thimble/opening, to connect into the bottom, vertical Tee connector, in the chimney".
The old/original (circa 1930) clay pipe/tube with thin metal ring on the inside wall of this Thimble is 1/8" smaller than the 10" horizontal section of pipe, that I am trying to "just slide in".
So it does not slide in...
Now, I could grind/chip/cut out the inner wall of the Thimble, enough to get this pipe to go in.
- I'm not all that comfortable with having to do this.
COULD I cut the 10" horizontal pipe down the middle, then slip this just inside the same pipe, then JB Weld the seam (like welding it up) to seal it, from all the hot smoke/gasses.

This WOULD work, wouldn't it???

I'm stuck here, guys, and am reaching out for any other good/safe ideas, on how I can get this installed A.S.A.P.

We're supposed to receive 8+ inches of Snow tomorrow, then single digits overnight, later in the week.

Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

CTwoodnutt - Peru, Maine

 

[begreen]

Is this thimble going through a wall or out in the open on an unenclosed chimney face? If the latter the best fix might be to remove the clay thimble. The JB Weld fix is not good. This pipe will get very hot. It will also expand and contract. That almost guarantees a failure. Imagine a failure occurring when a hot fire from a fresh load of wood is burning.

Pictures are welcome and may offer other options.

 

[irva]

Is this thimble going through a wall or out in the open on an unenclosed chimney face? If the latter the best fix might be to remove the clay thimble. The JB Weld fix is not good. This pipe will get very hot. It will also expand and contract. That almost guarantees a failure. Imagine a failure occurring when a hot fire from a fresh load of wood is burning.

Pictures are welcome and may offer other options.

Hi Begreen - No, I don't have a digital camera or smartphone. (I could take a photo on my Canon A-1 FILM camera, then send in photos in a month) but that's not an option).
This Thimble is going through a brick chimney, in the living room.
It's a sealed brick chimney, no fireplace etc.
I suppose I'll have to grind, chip. cut out the required 1/8" of material from the inside wall of the Thimble.
Ahh, Baa-Humbug!
But, if that's the only way to get the stove installed, that's what I'll have to do.

CTwoodnutt

 

[bholler]

Hi Begreen - No, I don't have a digital camera or smartphone. (I could take a photo on my Canon A-1 FILM camera, then send in photos in a month) but that's not an option).
This Thimble is going through a brick chimney, in the living room.
It's a sealed brick chimney, no fireplace etc.
I suppose I'll have to grind, chip. cut out the required 1/8" of material from the inside wall of the Thimble.
Ahh, Baa-Humbug!
But, if that's the only way to get the stove installed, that's what I'll have to do.

CTwoodnutt

What is around the thimble going through the wall? What is the wall made of?

 

[bholler]

You just need to remove the crock but you also need to be sure you have proper clearances.

 

[irva]

What is around the thimble going through the wall? What is the wall made of?

Brick.
It's the brick chimney, in my living room.
Brick & cement.

 

[irva]

You just need to remove the crock but you also need to be sure you have proper clearances.

Yes, all my clearances are good.
I'm near nothing combustible.
How would you remove the crock (Thimble, right?).
Chisel and hammer?

 

[bholler]

Yes, all my clearances are good.
I'm near nothing combustible.
How would you remove the crock (Thimble, right?).
Chisel and hammer?

Yes hammer and chisel. Do you have 12" of solid masonry around that thimble?

 

[irva]

Yes hammer and chisel. Do you have 12" of solid masonry around that thimble?

YES,I do.
What's your thoughts?

 

[begreen]

If the brick exposed and at least 12" away from any wood or combustible then maybe just use a cold chisel to carefully remove the clay thimble. Then hook up the snout and use some stove gasket rope to fill the gap.

 

[bholler]

YES,I do.
What's your thoughts?

Then just take the clay out and slide the stainless through. Then cement it fast

 

[irva]

Then just take the clay out and slide the stainless through. Then cement it fast

Sounds good!
What type of cement do you recommend I use?
Regular cement/sand mix?
How about that fire proof stuff that comes in a 'calk tube'"
I used some at a Connecticut neighbor's house, to seal any holes in his floor, around the copper hot water/heat pipes in his newly built house. (I don't remember the name of the stuff.

 

[bholler]

Sounds good!
What type of cement do you recommend I use?
Regular cement/sand mix?
How about that fire proof stuff that comes in a 'calk tube'"
I used some at a Connecticut neighbor's house, to seal any holes in his floor, around the copper hot water/heat pipes in his newly built house. (I don't remember the name of the stuff.

No firecaulk is not high heat it just stopps drafts. Any mortar or furnace cement will work. But make sure you have that 12" of masonry between it and any combustible materials.

 

[SteveKG]

I think my Bosch rotary hammer drill with a chisel bit would probably do it without much effort. Perhaps HD rents them? The chisel bit is only a few dollars. I used this set-up to break out some granite from a large rock and also to remove some concrete from a floor in my greenhouse.

The chisels come in different widths. I believe I have one an inch wide and one about a half inch. You'll have a bit of dust to clean up, but you'd have that doing it by hand, too.

 

[bholler]

I think my Bosch rotary hammer drill with a chisel bit would probably do it without much effort. Perhaps HD rents them? The chisel bit is only a few dollars. I used this set-up to break out some granite from a large rock and also to remove some concrete from a floor in my greenhouse.

The chisels come in different widths. I believe I have one an inch wide and one about a half inch. You'll have a bit of dust to clean up, but you'd have that doing it by hand, too.

We have 3 different sizes of bosch impact hammers for stuff like this

 

[simple.serf]

A month to get film developed?! Try 30 minutes! (Seriously, I love my Canon FD cameras...all of them...an Original F1 is next on my list)

Bosch hammer drill. If Home Depot won't rent you one, check out the commercial tool rental places, like United Rental. I've rented smaller specialty tools from them before.

 

[bholler]

A month to get film developed?! Try 30 minutes! (Seriously, I love my Canon FD cameras...all of them...an Original F1 is next on my list)

Bosch hammer drill. If Home Depot won't rent you one, check out the commercial tool rental places, like United Rental. I've rented smaller specialty tools from them before.

I really dont t hink it is eorth renting anything to take a crock out. 5 mins with a hammer and chisel and it will be done.

 

[begreen]

A month to get film developed?! Try 30 minutes! (Seriously, I love my Canon FD cameras...all of them...an Original F1 is next on my list)

Bosch hammer drill. If Home Depot won't rent you one, check out the commercial tool rental places, like United Rental. I've rented smaller specialty tools from them before.

I have an original F1, low miles. It's sitting on the shelf. PM me if interested.