stuffing an appalahian 32BW into a factory fireplace

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mildwild61

New Member
Sep 29, 2014
9
havelock nc
New here to this forum although i gathered a lot of valuable information here. So here it goes. Decided to ditch my old preway manufactured fireplace- 8 inch flue and install an appy 32bw insert instead. But as always there is a safety issue. The fireplace is a faux brick on top of sheetrock on top on wood studs and the hearth is a brick paver on a wood platform . 8 inch double lined galvanized pipe. So, should i tear it all out and start anew, go with a zc insert like a nappyz26 or reinforce what i have
 

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This is a total no-go. :ZZZIt is not a safe installation. The insert should not be installed in this area. Don't proceed. It is not a valid alcove even for a freestanding stove.

Replacing the whole shebang with a modern EPA insert is a much, much better plan. This may require replacing the chimney pipe as well.
 
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thanks for the advice. I couldn't make the numbers with combustible/noncombustible work either. Besides it will look good in my 3 car garage. Now on to the next question. The preway just gobbled up wood. I could go with a more efficient factory fireplace for under 2 grand with a blower of course. My second option is to go with an EPA certified unit that I could connect the blower to my existing ductwork and heat the whole house. Of course this would be supplemental heat as needed. Got any suggestions in either category and what kind of btu range should i be looking at. Running a 2 ton package heat pump system for the house thanks.
 
Normally the fireplace heat venting is ducted independent of the central heating system.
Tell us what you are heating, how large an area? open or closed-off floor plan? cathedral ceilings?
 
thank you for your interest. I have a 1300 sq ft brick rancher, 8 foot ceilings with fireplace at far end of 14 x 22 living room with my return duct for my heat pump ceiling mounted in hallway about 27 feet away from fireplace a straght shot at that. My old Preway wasn't putting out enough heat to make it that far. At the least I need a fireplace that will put out enough heat for my central air system to circulate it throughout the house. Thanks
 
Sounds like you would do well with a freestanding stove with the ZC area completely cleared and turned into an alcove if it's wide enough. The stove would have to have close clearances and be alcove approved. How tall is is the chimney? And how wide is the current opening where the Preway was?

Or you could install a modern EPA fireplace with about a 2 cu ft capacity. There are several good units on the market made by Kozy, RSF, BIS, etc.. Most of these fireplaces can be ducted to get heat to the other end of the house.
 
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Thanks for your interest. Someone has offered me a deal on a Napoleon NZ26 pipe and all from their new home. Turns out they only wanted a fireplace for aesthetic purposes not for heat for $2600, 1.7 cubit foot firebox. Does this sound like a viable alternative?
 
The Z26 is a small unit, but should perform much better than the old Preway. The price is ok, but not great for a used unit. How much use has it seen? It's good that they include the chimney pipe.
 
A "budget" ZC fireplace would be the Flame Monaco with a 2.5 cu ft firebox.
 
Then it's a good price if they throw in the pipe but will be a bit undersized for overnight burns. During the day when you can reload it often it may be ok.
 
Chimney from top of unit to above roof line is about 16 feet as it stands now. Yes the Flame Monaco looks attractive with the bigger firebox, I guess time you add in the pipe firebox etc., you're looking at 3200- 3500' Of course, keep in mind our lowest winter temp here is usually in the teens thanks guys
 
That's a good chimney height for an EPA fireplace. If the goal is just to put a good dent in the heating bill and not burn 24/7 the Nap will work. If the goal is to totally heat with the fireplace 24/7 then I would invest in the Flame or similar unit. To ensure success either fireplace is going to need several cords (3?) of fully seasoned wood to get through the winter. These units need dry wood to heat well.
 
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