Summit/Alderlea Rail Insulation

[madison]

I have obtained a replacement baffle with new rail insulation.

The baffle rail insulation has a scored line along the length of the insulation (see attached picture) and am now wondering how this insulation is supposed to be inserted in the rails.
1. Behind the rail channel and up along the side of the stove body? As shown in the attached picture
2. Or behind the rail channel and "hinged/folded" over the top of the rail channel, and the baffle would lay on top of the insulation. In which case there would be a couple inches of insulation hanging out into the stove under the baffle.

Thanks

 

[madison]

I assume this is the correct placement of the rail insulation? There is about a 1/2 inch space between the side of the baffle and the insulation.

 

[Hogwildz]

I believe the insulation get bent like a 90 where the split is "L" shaped. I'll have to look at the old Summit in the barn to see which way it is set in there. As long as you are filling the gap on both sides of the baffle you should be fine. As is in the photo looks fine.

 

[madison]

Thanks Hog, there is more like 3/4 " space between the sides of the baffle and the insulation which I have pushed up flush against the stove wall.

I wouldn't know how to pull it back down to fill that gap all the way back the sides? The slit in the insulation seems like they intend it to get bent. The only thought I had is it gets bent 90 degrees on top of the rail, then the baffle would rest on top of the insulation sitting on the rail... But then getting the baffle retaining pin into the hole would be a bit difficult.

 

[Hogwildz]

The baffler def does not sit on the insulation. I am trying to remember, but that ain't going so well. I almost swear the insulation was bent like an "L" with the bottom of the L facing inward on each side to rest against the sides of the baffle, the upward part of the L goes up the side wall of the firebox. The only other way I can imaging is turning the upward part of the L downward to slip into the gap between the firebox wall and the side rails the baffle rests on. I'll try and get out to the barn and see if it is still intact in the ol Summit. The new one is being used at the moment.

 

[Hogwildz]

OK you're in luck, and I don't have to go to the barn
. See attached photo I had from a prior cleaning.
The L is as such...upside down with the bottom part against the stove wall and the top lays over the top of the baffle. You don't want to compress the insulation, or you will end up with the gaps at the baffle sides. A small gap wont matter.

 

[madison]

thanks a ton hog . i jammed the insulation down into the channel along the rail. i figured that slit for a hinge was there for a purpose.

thanks again!

 

[begreen]

Looks like the slit / hinge may be for the newer models if you compare A versions with C versions. In the A version it is flat against the baffle, but in the C model it shows it bent with a 90º angle.

 

[Hogwildz]

Looks like the slit / hinge may be for the newer models if you compare A versions with C versions. In the A version it is flat against the baffle, but in the C model it shows it bent with a 90º angle.

My A model was the same as my B model

 

[begreen]

My A model was the same as my B model

Yes. I think it was with the C model that they made baffle mods.

 

[Hogwildz]

They also made mods to the baffle between the A & B. 2 additional front to back sets of jet holes on the bottom, the got rid of the insulation blanket and went to an insulation board, and I think they added stiffeners inside the baffle to help reduce sag, but now they bow up and crack at one of the center front jet holes, and the rear of the belly sags some still. Still functions just fine.

The also shrunk the top protector plate down to a much narrower size, and added a deflection wing to it just in front of the outlet. I changed back to my original A model protector plate, and the stove top was getting too hot where the wing was slowing down the exhaust flow, plus less than full protection of the stove top plate is not my idea of improvement. The boost baffle was a bit tighter also, and we know that is no good, so some of the edges need to be ground down to allow for expansion.

Dual fans are much easier to maintenance & clean, and will be much easier to service should the need rise.

 

[begreen]

The boost air on my stove comes through the front EBT. It's been taped off closed for years. This plus shutting down the air much earlier than I used to has made the stove very predictable. There is no baffle sag going on year 10.

 

[madison]

Thanks both Hog and Begreen.

Not sure what version I have except that I believe it was built in ~ 2007 - so I assume A. Baffle was slightly cracked down the middle and slightly warped upward. It took quit a while to get the replacement multiple attempts over a couple years. But eventually got the replacement last year, under warranty - only had to pay about 60 bucks for shipping. Finally swapped it out this fall.

I ended up sliding the insulation slightly behind the rail so that the slit/hinge was facing up into the top corner of the stove body. Then with a struggle got the new baffle up and in so it was pinching the hinged portion of the insulation to the top of the interior of the stove.

Interesting to note the difference in the heat shield images between Hog's summit and my T6. Hog's has some spoiler/deflector where ours does not.

Begreen did you use epoxy to fill the small hole in the EBT baffle? Duct tape (or does it get too warm for that?) or what ?

Thank you

 

[Hogwildz]

YOu have the insulation set in right. I felt up and around and the insulation is just as you have set it in. I swapped out the smaller heat shield with the "spoiler" and put the older larger shield in it's place. Yes a 2007 is most likely an A model. I think PE is only doing a one time baffle replacement now. And the limited lifetime warranty is actually a ten year warranty now. Kinda crappy to do, but it is what it is. I think they got by with many occasional burners, and didn't have any issues until serious 24/7 burners came in droves. Either way, it forces them to improve the product.

 

[begreen]

Thanks both Hog and Begreen.

Not sure what version I have except that I believe it was built in ~ 2007 - so I assume A. Baffle was slightly cracked down the middle and slightly warped upward. It took quit a while to get the replacement multiple attempts over a couple years. But eventually got the replacement last year, under warranty - only had to pay about 60 bucks for shipping. Finally swapped it out this fall.

I ended up sliding the insulation slightly behind the rail so that the slit/hinge was facing up into the top corner of the stove body. Then with a struggle got the new baffle up and in so it was pinching the hinged portion of the insulation to the top of the interior of the stove.

Interesting to note the difference in the heat shield images between Hog's summit and my T6. Hog's has some spoiler/deflector where ours does not.

Begreen did you use epoxy to fill the small hole in the EBT baffle? Duct tape (or does it get too warm for that?) or what ?

Thank you

Our T6s are definitely A models.
I used metal foil tape. The EBT doesn't get that hot, but duct tape would not be advisable. Something like this would work. Your hardware store may have it in smaller rolls. You might also be able to use a flat magnet to cover the hole. Our stove has no need for boost air for starting. It draft well and our wood is dry. And usually after Nov 1st it's running 24/7 anyway.
(broken link removed)

Our stoves have a flameshield (#3) like the Summit. I just dug up the original Alderlea manual. Here's the parts diagram which may help you.

 

[madison]

Thanks Hog and Thanks Begreen for sharing your knowledge and experience.

Interesting Hog regarding the modification of an existing warranty. I would add I completed the warranty registration and have never received a single communication from the company regarding the change in warranty, or for that matter any other type of communication that I did not initiate myself.

.... Exact opposite of all the politician brochures and calls this time of the year.

 

[mcstatz5829]

Thanks both Hog and Begreen.

Begreen did you use epoxy to fill the small hole in the EBT baffle? Duct tape (or does it get too warm for that?) or what ?

Thank you

Why cover the hole?

 

[begreen]

Why cover the hole?

The early EBT design supplemented boost air thermostatically. We have good strong draft. I found that it was delivering too much air at the bottom of the fire at the wrong time, when secondary combustion was at its peak. The stove top temp would head north of 700º with every fire. This is because the thermostatic coil on the EBT was opening up the air when the bottom of the stove got warm. In the next generation Summit and T6 PE changed the design of the EBT to be barometric and moved it to the secondary air supply. That was a major improvement both to burning efficiency but also to really extending the burn time which is what EBT stands for.

Our stove does not need boost air when burning good dry wood. It starts quickly and easily. Otherwise I would have rigged up a manual valve for the EBT so that I could have boost air for starting, then close it off.