With all the power issues you will need a surge protector or UPS that can handle the stove. You will have electrical problems with out them. Do not just plug them into the wall.
Surge Protector on every stove
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Yep, what Eric said!
I'm very glad I have a surge protector on my stove. While the power never actually went out last night, it blinked off/on at least 4-5 times in about a minute.
If you don't have one, get one before you fry your control board.
Here's one similar to what I got:
www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2454736
I'm very glad I have a surge protector on my stove. While the power never actually went out last night, it blinked off/on at least 4-5 times in about a minute.
If you don't have one, get one before you fry your control board.
Here's one similar to what I got:
www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2454736
I agree! Get that stove protected!
The weather is terrible here with high winds/rain/ice and the UPS on my stove
has been getting quite a workout off and on all nite.
At the risk of jinxing myself, my stove has been running without any hiccups so far.
The weather is terrible here with high winds/rain/ice and the UPS on my stove
has been getting quite a workout off and on all nite.
At the risk of jinxing myself, my stove has been running without any hiccups so far.
Can you explain what those of us without a UPS can do? Will a regular old 15A power strip surge protector suffice?
I've been in this same house for 47 yrs and can count
on one hand the amount of times we've lost power so
it's not a huge concern here but regardless....
I use this Belkin. http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-12-Outlet-Protector-Ethernet-Protection/dp/B000HPX46U
One in the living rm, one in the home office.
a UPS in most cases will provide power to your stove while
giving you ample time to shut it down properly. A good surge
strip should in most cases protect your stove electronics in
a power outage but your stove will obviously shut down
when you lose power.
on one hand the amount of times we've lost power so
it's not a huge concern here but regardless....
I use this Belkin. http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-12-Outlet-Protector-Ethernet-Protection/dp/B000HPX46U
One in the living rm, one in the home office.
jtcm05 said:
a UPS in most cases will provide power to your stove while
giving you ample time to shut it down properly. A good surge
strip should in most cases protect your stove electronics in
a power outage but your stove will obviously shut down
when you lose power.
zeta said:
Must be nice. We lose power all the time. The last big one was for 4 days during the summer. The well pump needs electric to work so without electric we have no water or heat (except for the wood stove) The diesel generator came out to play and served us well. That might not work in very cold temps if the fuel gels. Looking for a small gas generator around 1000-1500 watts just for one of the pellet stoves.
Eric
Thanks for the tip, I have Belkin suppressors on everything else, but didn't dawn on me the stove control board. I would hate to try to find a replacement control board for my 10+ old obsolete stove. Let alone that inflamed price because it's obsolete.
BTW; a real suppressor will have a small silver UL tag on it .
BTW; a real suppressor will have a small silver UL tag on it .
- Dec 6, 2008
- 134
kinsman stoves said:
Well, first of all let me say I do have a surge protector on mine, just in case. HOWEVER, is it necessary? I don't know, Maybe we should have a poll. Remember, a surge protector work ONCE. Then it's dead, no reset, no fix, replace only. Won't get any power through it, ever again. It's how they're designed. SO, OK, the poll, how many have ever had one clamp up? I'd do it myself, but I don't know how.
Lance1 said:
The one from Radio Shack I mentioned above is UL listed, and protects to 1260 Joules (minimum for a pellet stove should be 1000).
Although it doesn't look like much, we discussed it's specs a month or two ago, and it's really a nice unit, and pretty effective for the price. Here's the specs:
Protected line, neutral and ground (L-N-G)
Clamping volt: 330V
Joules: 1260J
Peak voltage: 6000V
Spike capacity: 60000A
Ground LED indication (green)
EMI/RFI Filtering up to 40dB
And BTW, those long white ones people buy for their computer/printer/cable modem/etc, are CRAP.
hossthehermit said:
Not exactly true, yes a good surge protector is only good for one bad power surge but it also clamps voltage when it gets to high and some will help boost the voltage up for brown outs. A lot of people don't know that it is the little surges or brown outs that will kill electronics. It won't do it right away but over time it wears down the electronic components and then they start to get weak and after awhile they will fail.
I have a UPS for my MAC; the stove cost a little more than what what I paid for the computer. It's a worthwhile investment of $45.00 to to get an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) for the stove considering the cost and inconvenience of replacing the control board. Especially when the outage is likely to occur in the dead of winter. I already know that the stove will seep smoke into the house upon unplanned shut-down. The UPS we have for MAC has a nice loud alarm that sounds within 10 minutes of losing battery back-up... I would get the same model for the stove so I'd know to shut it down properly before we get smoked out.
Power surges are a daily event in most homes. A surge event is an increase or a decrease in line voltage. Large well pumps, furnaces and AC units starting and stopping all cause power surges in a home electrical system. This is on top of actual utility events (brownouts etc).By our Ontario Electrical code the voltage entering a service may fluctuate by as much as 5% and be acceptable (120 +/- 5% = 126 / 114). So if your at the 5% and a surge happens it has the ability to be higher just in daily household living. Over time sensitive electronics can be affected.
The problem for many older houses is in order for a surge protector to work you need a system ground. I'm not familiar with the home systems in the States but many older homes here were simply a 2 wire system with no ground. In the event of a surge the voltage exceeding the clamp setpoint diverts through the ground.
When buying a surge protection device look for a Underwriters Laboratories (UL)(ULC) or a Canadian Standards Association (CSA) label to ensure you have an approved device as there are overseas imports available at the local 'buck shops'.
The problem for many older houses is in order for a surge protector to work you need a system ground. I'm not familiar with the home systems in the States but many older homes here were simply a 2 wire system with no ground. In the event of a surge the voltage exceeding the clamp setpoint diverts through the ground.
When buying a surge protection device look for a Underwriters Laboratories (UL)(ULC) or a Canadian Standards Association (CSA) label to ensure you have an approved device as there are overseas imports available at the local 'buck shops'.
I know this is an old topic, but I just thought I would renew it with an experience I just had. Based on this chain and the fact that I repair computers and have seen what power surges do to them, I put my stove on a surge protector. The other night, weather was clear, the power went out "nasty". The lights got bright, dim, bright, on/off, over a 30 minute period the lights started do weird things and I heard electronic noises that I knew were bad. It turned out a transformer caught fire at the sub station. In the morning, I had to reset 6 circuit breakers to get power back on for everything. The stove started then died. It turned out the $9 surge protector from Home Depot had given its life for the the stove. I replaced it and all was good. The surge protector was dead. I decided to open the surge protector just to see what had happened inside. The circuit board and capacitors on it were BLACK!
$9 for a surge protector that saved me a lot of money I'm sure. Money well spent.
$9 for a surge protector that saved me a lot of money I'm sure. Money well spent.
Attachments
![[Hearth.com] Surge Protector on every stove](/talk/data/attachments/16/16422-83b57b2fb11a1cec369fba72bb6e98ca.jpg?hash=0yvV5ZgwyC)
![[Hearth.com] Surge Protector on every stove](/talk/data/attachments/16/16423-e623a3ca0d5df35afdc4395dddca3aa6.jpg?hash=1jr9Um9zDi)
![[Hearth.com] Surge Protector on every stove](/talk/data/attachments/16/16424-87df45993212da8e804c48f35f581ef5.jpg?hash=Uw4282jVfc)
Most manuals (in small print) the company wants you to use a surge protector.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surge_protector
A line stabilizer/conditioner is a device that does "low voltage regulation with
spike bar noise and spike suppression" . Look at the TRIPP LITE line.
The one I use is rated at 800 watts.
The first one is a "one shot" protection
The second is reset able.
My 2¢
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Surge_protector
A line stabilizer/conditioner is a device that does "low voltage regulation with
spike bar noise and spike suppression" . Look at the TRIPP LITE line.
The one I use is rated at 800 watts.
The first one is a "one shot" protection
The second is reset able.
My 2¢
The First Thing I bought Before I fired up The Stove Was A good ups with sinewave, surge, brownout protection, Worth Every Dime especially Considering the cost of a motherboard/electronics so I took the upfront hit and it also great when I have a power outage because it gives me Ten Minutes To fire up the generator, Priceless....
Attachments
![[Hearth.com] Surge Protector on every stove](/talk/data/attachments/16/16426-0498556340aa61d5ad44c95e9c9890c2.jpg?hash=4QaKMR37Yk)
![[Hearth.com] Surge Protector on every stove](/talk/data/attachments/16/16427-b4830d944682ed87aaf6bcca167f3451.jpg?hash=vxOLYQ-6Qp)
![[Hearth.com] Surge Protector on every stove](/talk/data/attachments/16/16428-77b3c4ad669f534f57484b77fad15fcd.jpg?hash=775yTX1HOu)
I use both, have the UPS protected with the surge protector as well... Nice set up BreckP, how long does that run your stove???
![[Hearth.com] Surge Protector on every stove](/talk/data/attachments/16/16433-5dacafc6d467c90bb29f7883b2e65d4b.jpg?hash=WpWC4GD-1q)
![[Hearth.com] Surge Protector on every stove](/talk/data/attachments/16/16434-e04b5c9371eab2c57654db2491c359db.jpg?hash=ozSyp1SV0a)
![[Hearth.com] Surge Protector on every stove](/talk/data/attachments/16/16435-22c773a304e23e29afe6f0ea8ec36e62.jpg?hash=Ovo7WpeAtW)
![[Hearth.com] Surge Protector on every stove](/talk/data/attachments/16/16436-dbd64443a48b2ae07568943761e4fc6f.jpg?hash=UmqgjwAZ5Y)
Every piece of electronics worth over $200 should be plugged into one of these.
http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=LE600
Not only a surge protector but line conditioner which is key. Sells for about $45
http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=LE600
Not only a surge protector but line conditioner which is key. Sells for about $45
I purchased Online At
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/
They Dont have that model but they have alot of comparable units, They Were the best price At the time, Between the generator, The Cable Required to connect the generator to the outside wall connector, Wasnt as bad as you might think, I went to reliance website and they show how to wire the whole setup to your exiting service. With a little patience you can save the cost of installation, which can vary, Electricians are worth everydime if you dont feel up to the challenge.
here is the cost of the wall kit with box from the same company that i have in my pics
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Reliance-Controls-20216AK/p1118.html
Then you can get something similar to this briggs and stratton model
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Briggs-&-Stratton-30439/p2686.html
YOU ARE ALSO GOING TO NEED THIS OUTSIDE BOX
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Reliance-Controls-PB20/p1085.html
HERE IS THE EXACT KIT I PURCHASED
(broken link removed to http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/images.php?products_id=1124)
The Coleman in my pics has a really great subaru engine so it was a great buy, I paid back then 699.00
Quiet compared to other models, Coleman is a great brand, briggs and stratton as well.
cabling at home depot 45.00
power kit 265.00
Keeping the wife, kids, warm happy and connected to their toys, PRICELESS !!
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/
They Dont have that model but they have alot of comparable units, They Were the best price At the time, Between the generator, The Cable Required to connect the generator to the outside wall connector, Wasnt as bad as you might think, I went to reliance website and they show how to wire the whole setup to your exiting service. With a little patience you can save the cost of installation, which can vary, Electricians are worth everydime if you dont feel up to the challenge.
here is the cost of the wall kit with box from the same company that i have in my pics
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Reliance-Controls-20216AK/p1118.html
Then you can get something similar to this briggs and stratton model
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Briggs-&-Stratton-30439/p2686.html
YOU ARE ALSO GOING TO NEED THIS OUTSIDE BOX
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/Reliance-Controls-PB20/p1085.html
HERE IS THE EXACT KIT I PURCHASED
(broken link removed to http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect.com/images.php?products_id=1124)
The Coleman in my pics has a really great subaru engine so it was a great buy, I paid back then 699.00
Quiet compared to other models, Coleman is a great brand, briggs and stratton as well.
cabling at home depot 45.00
power kit 265.00
Keeping the wife, kids, warm happy and connected to their toys, PRICELESS !!
Orange Crush CJ-7 said:
I purchased the Harman Battery Backup 512H when I bought our stove, I drilled a hole in the floor to my basement ran an electric line up to the stove, and use my E-Z-GO golf cart to power my stove, you do have to rewire the cart to 12V... We had a power outage in late Jan. and this set up ran my stove from 07:45- 17:30, almost 11 hours until I got in from work and started my generator
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