Sweep with a steel brush on stainless?

[Wade A.]

Failure to plan ahead has come home to roost for me, I'm afraid. Due to a shipping snafu I don't care to bore you with, I'm only holding a 6" steel bristled brush and my stainless chimney is overdue for a sweep. I'd usually not care too much if I waited, but the prediction is snow tonight, and kids out of school tomorrow. Sure would be nice to burn. I was on the roof this morning and I think that my residue has put me past the critical point and I shut it down. So, I'm really wanting to hear from anyone who has strong opinions about the advisability of using a steel brush on stainless.....and I'm talking about only doing it this one time.

 

[pen]

Personally, I'd run it down the pipe to get it going. HOWEVER do not force it through a bend or other area.

I'd then spend the 15 bucks on a poly to have as well.

Many people use nothing but steel brushes on stainless and never have a problem, as a personal preference, I choose to err on the side of caution as I can't imagine how it would be replacing it.

pen

 

[Wade A.]

Thanks for the quick reply Pen. It is a straight shot, no bends, and I am going to get a poly brush and retire the other one. The 15 bucks I spent on the steel brush I'll chalk up to "stupidity tax." I hate doing a job without the right tool, but things have been pretty crazy around my house. (The wife did a barrier crash test last week at 40 mph) She' is fine, but she totaled out our VW TDI....loved that engine and only 70k miles on it! Yeah, car shopping, insurance settlements, etc. Cuts into a man's time to do "real" work, you know?

 

[BrotherBart]

Use the steel one and get'er done.

 

[Wade A.]

Thanks Brother Bart for helping snap me to.

Where are you in NOVA? I'm a Virginny boy myself...Fairfax and Augusta Counties.

 

[DonNC]

One thing Id do though if you use the steel one is to run it all the way out the bottom before you come back up. I figure the change of direction will be the most traumatic on the liner.

Just a thought
²

 

[Wade A.]

That makes sense Don, yes. That would be no problem to do. My top section of Duravent chimney is also easily accessed and I can remove it with a twist,and sweep it a lot easier down on the ground, pushing the rod all the way through.

 

[BrotherBart]

Thanks Brother Bart for helping snap me to.

Where are you in NOVA? I'm a Virginny boy myself...Fairfax and Augusta Counties.

Down around Nokesville. Worked in Mclean for a lotta years. Originally hail from Texas.

 

[Wade A.]

God bless anyone who commutes on the Georgetown Pike! I worked in the District from 1980-84, commuting from Great Falls. When I left, I felt like I'd been let out of jail!

Thanks for all the time you put into moderating this forum Bart. The property and casualty insurers of the world salute your efforts, and all who post here.

 

[RNLA]

The liner all be it thin material will take lots of abuse. Do the complete run then return as the other guy said. I have several years of metal fab experience with stainless and I think your only worried about puncture of your liner. Steel in it's self will not hurt the liner unless it is the really thin liner that looks like heavy dryer vent. Then in that case you might still be OK to go the entire run before you change directions. All you are doing is knocking off the big stuff, you're not preparing for surgery! :-/

 

[Wade A.]

RNLA......so I guess I should return that endoscope I leased?

Really, that is a great observation. We all (me?) can get a tad obsessive at times.

 

[Wade A.]

Thanks for all the advice y'all. Went home last night and knocked it out. Sweepings were fine, dry and glittery, just the way I like to see 'em. Maybe a 1/2 cup from a 16' stack. This was after four months of burning, and based on my inspections, I didn't think I'd find more, but I was made anxious about it yesterday morning. I was up early and got it blazing and then heard a knock on the door. It was a neighbor who said she saw "fire" coming out from around my cap. Well, that certainly got my attention! I thanked her and stood in the yard and looked for a good while.....no, nothing but hot air. No change in the firebox either. I chalked it up to to the fir needles I was burning for tinder, probably lofted a few up there and scorched off some loose chips or something. Still, it preys on your mind.

I had to dissaemble the Jotul Castine to open up the flue. It wasn't too bad a job.... if you've ever had to change the sparkplugs on a transverse engine before! I wanted to take the top plate bolts out. My wrists are just a little too wide to be able to reach up over the manifold and still turn my hand over when needed. I thought I might just raise that up, but I was too lazy to get a prop, and just muddled through. I know that I didn't need to bolt the top plate back on when I finished, but some part of me just doesn't want to leave that like that.

All in all, not a bad job for the peace of mind it gave me. Burn On Garth!

 

[southbalto]

Plough....

from a thread started by Cycloxer:

"Also, in Europe the top cover is not secured to the stove - it simply rests on top of the stove with gravity. I guess there is some regulation requiring access to the flue w/o tools. So, you could remove the two 10mm bolts on eithe side if you so desired to make access even easier. I prefer to have my stove top secured and I don’t find it that difficult to disassemble - a couple minutes of effort."

 

[SteveKG]

Using a steel-bristled brush a few times won't destroy your pipe.

 

[Wade A.]

Me neither SoBalto, for the security you get. Hate to think what would happen if somebody bumped it hard while I had a 700 degree blaze going, or even if I got too horsey putting in a large split.

I'm looking at my forearms as I type this, and I definitely have a souvenir of turning those 10 mm bolts though. Well, if it were easy....right?

Thanks again to everyone who posted.