Tall chimney + insert = trouble?

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Going to 5.5 may help but probably won't change much.
I agree 100% I run a stove on a 5.5" insulated liner 35' with 2 T's and 1 90 and still need a damper.
 
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I agree 100% I run a stove on a 5.5" insulated liner 35' with 2 T's and 1 90 and still need a damper.
My dealer got back to me and the Lopi technical support guy said they only test with 6” so that’s all he can recommend. I measured today and it’s going to be right at a 30’ run of liner. But the shipment got pushed back again and is now sitting at March 31st so maybe I’ll have it beginning of April, but even if I can’t use it till next winter at least it will be much prettier just sitting there than the charred and stained fireplace
 
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I ran a Lopi Freedom on a 28' 6" insulated chimney I ran it for a few months with no damper. It was hard to keep it from overfire and on windy days it seemed like it would suck the flames up to the top of the stove, the burn times maybe 6 hours. After installing the damper temps were much more manageable, the wind issue was better and burn times were 7 sometimes I could get 8 hours. I have since changed to a PE insert and a hi wind cap. The PE will overfire if quicker than the Lopi if I am not careful but I do seem to get constant 8 hour burn times.
 
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I ran a Lopi Freedom on a 28' 6" insulated chimney I ran it for a few months with no damper. It was hard to keep it from overfire and on windy days it seemed like it would suck the flames up to the top of the stove, the burn times maybe 6 hours. After installing the damper temps were much more manageable, the wind issue was better and burn times were 7 sometimes I could get 8 hours. I have since changed to a PE insert and a hi wind cap. The PE will overfire if quicker than the Lopi if I am not careful but I do seem to get constant 8 hour burn times.
So you had damper installed on your insert? If you have a picture of what this looks like I’d love to see it. I can’t find any pics of an insert with a damper online and one of the dealers in my area said he’s never seen or heard of one being put on an insert. We live in NC where the winters are mild and I’m guessing the wood stove installers and sweeps up north have a lot more experience than our guys down here lol.
 
So you had damper installed on your insert? If you have a picture of what this looks like I’d love to see it. I can’t find any pics of an insert with a damper online and one of the dealers in my area said he’s never seen or heard of one being put on an insert. We live in NC where the winters are mild and I’m guessing the wood stove installers and sweeps up north have a lot more experience than our guys down here lol.
I do 5 to 10 a year. You need to fabricate some sort of linkage from the damper in the pipe to a handle coming out through the surround. I usually use fireplace damper handles that fit on 1/4" rod. And u joints for 1/4" drive sockets.
 
And no I am not posting pics online.
 
Here is my thread on the install of the damper on the Lopi since the damper is installed in the appliance adapter I used the same setup with the PE
and a few additional pics

damp4.jpg thumbnail (14).jpeg lopid.jpg
 
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So you had damper installed on your insert? If you have a picture of what this looks like I’d love to see it. I can’t find any pics of an insert with a damper online and one of the dealers in my area said he’s never seen or heard of one being put on an insert. We live in NC where the winters are mild and I’m guessing the wood stove installers and sweeps up north have a lot more experience than our guys down here lol.
Here is mine. If I want to use the surround I will extend the handle through a hole drilled in the surround.

image.jpg
 
I just installed a key damper in my insert this past Nov, now entering year 3 of my burning. I had installed a magnehelic upon my original installation 18" above the appliance connector. Regular water column at high burn was in excess of 0.25wc and pegged. I have a 28' insulated line in an exterior brick chimney and a block off plate.

To fabricate my damper, I took an 8" section of single wall pipe and installed the key damper in the middle. I then used a 3' section of 1/4" threaded rod and a coupling nut to the key damper handle (after it was cut off). Since the liner was angled, I drilled a hole in the brick above the surround where the rod would extend. Then attached the handle and it was done.
 
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A handle run through the surround controls it.

Yes there are gauges that measure draft which could be used but generally if there is an issue I just use mine and make sure it can be brought into spec.

I would absolutely recommend a remote digital temp probe.

No you don't have to stay up adjusting it. You will quickly figure out what settings work for your setup. It should be cruising along nicely within 15 mins or less typically.
What temperatures would be limits a few inches above an insert of I got a remote temperature probe? I'm tempted to install a magnahelenic permanently!!!!!
 
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I'm tempted to install a magnahelenic permanently!!!!!
You wouldn't be the only one here that monitors full time...and those magnehelic gauges have a kind of steam punk look to them (that's "in" now)
 
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What temperatures would be limits a few inches above an insert of I got a remote temperature probe? I'm tempted to install a magnahelenic permanently!!!!!
Ideally, the flue temps would be close to the stovetop temp when the fire is cruising and the air has been closed down. Upper limit would be around 800 on startup. Extended runs at above 1000 can deteriorate the liner over time.

 
Thank you again. I'm going to do another test this week and then ship the unit back. You did not include your name for a check. I don't mind sticking Cash in The box either if you are okay with that. Let me know what you prefer. Remind me again which stove/insert you have.