O.K, lets say someday when I succeed in adding enough additional baseboard, and low temp. radiators, to qualify my heating system as "low-temp-able", what happens next. Would I heat my storage to 195* and as the storage cools, run it down to my minimum temp say 155*. Or do I install a temperature mixing control valve and set the output to the minimum temperature I want to circulate (155*) all the time?
Temperature control valve.
- Thread starter chuck172
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Here's my plan:
I'll keep my baseboards plumbed as they are, but I'll put a pair of closely spaced tees on the return manifold, between the baseboard returns and the boiler.
I'll set up a circ with mixing valve to draw water from the first tee and feed low the low-temp zone(s), returning water to the second tee. The mixing valve on this loop will recirculate water within the loop as needed to maintain appropriate temperature.
This should give me both lower return temps to storage (maintaining stratification better) and allow me to use lower temp water from storage and still heat the house.
This diagram is a bit busy, but you can find the radiant zone if you're persistent.
I'll keep my baseboards plumbed as they are, but I'll put a pair of closely spaced tees on the return manifold, between the baseboard returns and the boiler.
I'll set up a circ with mixing valve to draw water from the first tee and feed low the low-temp zone(s), returning water to the second tee. The mixing valve on this loop will recirculate water within the loop as needed to maintain appropriate temperature.
This should give me both lower return temps to storage (maintaining stratification better) and allow me to use lower temp water from storage and still heat the house.
This diagram is a bit busy, but you can find the radiant zone if you're persistent.
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And you could get one of the floating action motors for the mixing valve and an outdoor reset control to adjust it according to the outdoor temps and current indoor requirements.
Not cheap, but very sassy stuff.
But is it necessary to install some sort of temperature reducing valve?
I don't see why I can't just let the temperature of the storage self-cool into the least usable temperture, then re-charge (fire up the boiler).
Seems to me the temperature of storage would only dictate the length of runtime for that circulator till it satisfies the thermostat.
I don't see why I can't just let the temperature of the storage self-cool into the least usable temperture, then re-charge (fire up the boiler).
Seems to me the temperature of storage would only dictate the length of runtime for that circulator till it satisfies the thermostat.
chuck172 said:
Baseboards need pretty hot water to give much heat, but radiant typically uses much cooler temps. You don't want to put 160 degree water into your floor slab. The max temp depends on the radiant installation, but it's typically much cooler. My brother's runs at a max temp of 90°F.
Probably over shoot your t-stat setting for your room, at first. Obviously as the tank cools down, less of the overshoot. Not an even warmth?
No pex tubing for me. Just copper fintube baseboard and hopefully some radiant panels in the future. I don't think any zones will overheat, with high temps the zone should just satisfy quicker.
When storage temps drop, zones will run for longer intervals.
When storage temps drop, zones will run for longer intervals.
I was being slightly facetious about the outdoor reset controller but it wouldn't be a bad idea (assuming they don't cost a whole lot more) to use one of the mixing valves that can take a floating action motor on the same shaft as the manual lever. I've seen pictures of them so I'm pretty sure they aren't exotic special orders.
That way when you have perfected every thing else in your life and want to indulge your craving for automatic constant temperature without lifting an additional finger, you can just add the controller and actuator and not do any plumbing.
That way when you have perfected every thing else in your life and want to indulge your craving for automatic constant temperature without lifting an additional finger, you can just add the controller and actuator and not do any plumbing.
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