Temperature / Draw Question(s) on new Hearthstone Phoenix

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JeffW

New Member
Hearth Supporter
Jan 4, 2008
5
Central Vermont
we just installed (yesterday) a new hearthstone phoenix w/new liner and insulation blanket. after breaking-in, we built first "real fire" last night. after getting warmed-up to 400, temps took-off w/new load of logs. even on lowest setting the sound of air rushing into the stove was audible from the ash pan area. we did not hear an draw/rushing air sound w/our old cast iron stove and it concerns me, should i be? the stove temp reached 550 and over ash grate the coals were visibly hotter. also, our burn time was very short. we let the fire burn-out as i was afraid to really load the stove up at midnight before hitting the sheets, Hearthstone literature said that 500 was max temp for this stove, so i am concerned. this morning our dealer / installer said that temps up to 700 on the stove were fine. is this correct? why would Hearthstone say one thing and the dealer say another?

is the sound of rushing air into ash pan normal? i've made sure the grate is closed... when i open the door to the ash grate, the fire visibly increases, so it seems to be sealing - and it is brand spanking new. are there other ways for air to get in there? when i opened the ash door and removed the tray i could see red coals through the grate, even w/it in fully closed position. is it designed to draw some air no matter what? is this right / safe?

thanks, i appreciate the advice!! Don't want to burn my house down or ruin this beauty of a stove! - jeff
 
Welcome aboard Jeff,

Did you check the gasket on the ash pan to see if it is defective?
 
If this is like the heritage, the primary air outlet is a hole right in front of the ash grate, which may give the appearance that it's the ash pan door leaking. Also, I hear a rush of air in my heritage, and i suppose it could sound like it's coming ffrom the ash door.

Do your dollar bill test all around the ash door, of course, but also, close your primary air all the way and see if it makes a difference in the sound you're hearing. Also, place your hand as a seal over the primary air inlet momentarily with air control sut and see if you can "kill" the fire - this should also silence the air noise if there is NOT a ash pan door gasket leak.
 
thanks for the responses. when i close the primary air fully, the sound of rushing air rises to higher pitch and the fire decreases, so it is working, it almost seems like the primary air control doesn't fully eliminate the intake of air when in most closed position. does that make sense for this stove? where is the primary air inlet for me to place my hand over? as i'd like to see if that stops the sound of the rushing air. the gasket around the ash pan door looks good - when i do tests opening and closing that door, it is a different sound of air and the response from the stove is immediate, so i think the door is sealing properly there...

stove is burning more evenly today, last night it was -10, while today it is 10-15.
 
JeffW said:
thanks for the responses. when i close the primary air fully, the sound of rushing air rises to higher pitch and the fire decreases, so it is working, it almost seems like the primary air control doesn't fully eliminate the intake of air when in most closed position. does that make sense for this stove? where is the primary air inlet for me to place my hand over? as i'd like to see if that stops the sound of the rushing air. the gasket around the ash pan door looks good - when i do tests opening and closing that door, it is a different sound of air and the response from the stove is immediate, so i think the door is sealing properly there...

stove is burning more evenly today, last night it was -10, while today it is 10-15.

You are correct, closing the primary air control does NOT completely close off the primary air. The EPA doesn't want you to smolder your stove all night. In addition, the primary air control slider does NOT control the air that goes to those upper burn tubes, the secondary air supply. Those air tubes get full air all the time.

The air supply inlet for my heritage, hoping the same for your phoenix, is on the rear of the stove at the bottom and is a cast hole in the ash pan casting facing rearward. Should be about three inches in diameter and is the entire supply for your stove. Stuff a welding glove in the hole if your stove runs away. I attached my outside air ducting there so any rushing air sounds are muffled.

Nobody knows the max temp for the Hearthstones. The manual isn't even specific in that it gives "high burn" temps and then lists other temps that can be reached but no mention of whether that is safe operating temps. I have been past 500 but never to 600 on my stovetop.

The ash pan casting bolts to the bottom of the stove with several smallish bolts. These bolts have been known to back out during shipping/assembly and should be checked for tightness. A loose and leaky ashpan will bypass air into your ashdrawer where it can feed the fire. I recommend letting a decent bed of ash build up over the ash grate to help seal any potential leaks.
 
I think you're OK...this is different from all of my other stoves, and took me a bit of getting used to, also. If that ash pan gasket was leaking, you'd probably see super-high chimney temps and your stove would be way too hot - I'm guessing well over the "safe" range stated in your manual. If I really try, I can get my Heritage over 600 F, but it's difficult.
 
great, thanks for the additional replies, very helpful in calming my new stove nerves. was using an old vermont castings vigilant, this new stove technology is freaking me out!
 
What made you switch to a new stove Jeff? Did the Vigilant finally die or did you just decide to go to an EPA stove?
 
the Vigilant had been over-fired numerous times in its life and was warped in places, wasn't epa compliant, didn't look very good as "centerpiece" to our living room, etc... we kept the vigilant and will overhaul it for use in the basement eventually...

now that i've owned the Hearthstone Phoenix for a few days, keeping a fire going constantly, i am very happy with it. produces a steadier heat, more BTU's, warmer house! but, it needs to be fed fuel more frequently and takes a long time to warm-up (90-120mins) - so not sure if we'll save propane w/it or not - we definitely will have a warmer house when home, but when away (like at work all day), the supplemental propane will need to kick-on - especially on cold days. i could get the Vigilant to smolder all day by closing the damper... when we get the vigilant working in the basement, we shouldn't need much propane at all.
 
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