That seems too hot!! Quad 4300

[agz124]

Newbie looking for some guidance.

This is only my 3rd fire with my quad 4300 (1998 model with a good door gasket) and I have my old coal stove thermometer on top (it is a step top) on the lowest level and I can't keep the temp under 700. I have closed both the primary and secondary and it is still 700. I know the control levers are working because the flames change dramatically when I adjust the levers. There is no glowing anywhere except the secondary tubes are slightly orange. I know these stoves throw heat but 700!?

Thanks

 

[Shane]

I'd check the thermostat accuracy.

 

[jpl1nh]

I agree with Shane. Put your thermometer in the oven at a set temperature to check its accuracy.

 

[titan]

That t'stat may be accurate if your burn tubes are orange.Something's not right......do you have excessive draft andor air infiltrating the firebox somewhere?

 

[nshif]

Something doesnt seem right. I have a brand new 4300 ST which I have just broken in and started to fire and I have a heck of a time getting the stove top ( lower level ) to 700. it can be done but takes good dry oak ( seasoned 3 years ) as soon as I throtle it back I can hold 500 easy. And thats with a 24' draft. Granted its an ACC but that shouldnt affect burning after that shuts down. Sounds to me like you have an air leak or are burning VERY dry wood. Not that 700 is much to worry about

 

[agz124]

How would I figure out if my stove leaks or if my draft is excessive? I installed a new 22' long 6" flex liner....?? Like I said, when I open of the levers I notice a big difference in flame and heat output. Both controls have been closed for about an hour now and the temp is down to 625 but the load of wood is mostly gone. I should also mention that a few weeks ago I had my first fire and let it go over night and in the morning (8hours later) I still had embers....so I am thinking that the stove doesn't leak or it would have burned out plus I only had a few logs in it.

 

[agz124]

Maybe the door gasket is not as good as I thought it was. That is a cheap place to begin the problem solving adventure. I have noticed that door lever latches all the way quite easily (as if it is not pulling the door tight). I took the door to my local quad dealer and he said the gasket seems fine (soft). I think I will let it burn out and try removing the spacer on the door latch and then see if the door closes tighter.

BTW- 1 year old seasoned walnut is the current load.

Does anyone know how hot is too hot for this stove? My manual doesn't say.

 

[WILDSOURDOUGH]

Hope it's junk Walnut.
Otherwise- it's a 'Sin'.
(trade you some 'wet cardbord' for it-
:bug:

 

[nshif]

I would say keep it below 900 max, preferably 850. 700 is not that big of a deal as long as you dont run at that temp for extended periods of time. As was said Id check out your thermometer to see if its accurate, a new one is only like 25 bucks. Ive got mine going now and Ill go load it up with oak and see what it does with air wide open and shut down. Im useing a Fluke meter with an Omega sensor so temps are very accurate.

 

[agz124]

Thanks NSHIF, I am interested in the temps you get.

 

[Hogwildz]

Don't take the door off, run it cold, and when cold, do the dollar bill test. Simple as that. Look it up, its posted several times here.

 

[nshif]

Ok heres a quick test.
I loaded it up with oak, ran full air to about 650. ( could have maybe made 700 with one more piece but didnt want to open doors etc. ) maintained that for about 5-10 min then shut off all air. dropped to about 500 in less then 30 min and held. here is a pic at 600.

 

[agz124]

Nice stove! Excellent picture too. You have proven that my stove is leaking more air than it should. My air controls have been closed now for about an hour and I am still at 650.

Thanks for your help.

 

[jtp10181]

Check your door gaskets and also if you can check the seal on the start-up air. There should be a hole or two in the back with a plate that flaps back and forth when you slide the start-up air in and out. That flap has a flat gasket on it and it is possible that could wear out I suppose. Is the door gasket the original? Is it possible it was replaced with the wrong size (too small)? Close the door on a dollar bill and try to pull it out in a few different places. It should be pretty snug, if it slides out easily your gasket is too small or worn out.

Also check your baffle board and blanket on top of the tubes, if these are out of place it can cause over firing. The blanket should be flat on top of the board and not hanging over in the front, it should cover all the edges of the board and overlap onto frame for the tubes. The board should be pushed back as far as it can go, but remain flat on the tubes, do not lift the back up and rest it on top of the hump in the back.

Do you have an ash clean out? Now I have not really looked close at one on this stove in particular but this applies to about any ash clean out. Make sure any door or cover for the ash clean out is sealing up well, should seal up just like the door. Air leaking in there is even worse than the door since it goes right under the fire.

 

[agz124]

Update:

Dealer said, "The stove will burn cooler when you have a thick bed of ash and many people call and complain of 700 F until they get a few fires and ash built up" I find that hard to believe.

I replaced the door gasket last night and built a fire this morning only to have the same problem. I checked all other gaskets on the entire stove and everything looks great. Replacing the door gasket was a good idea because it certainly seals better and closes tighter. Here is what I am doing:

6am- opened both control all the way and lit paper and kindling.
6:15- added a few 1" rounds
6:25- added three 6" splits (oak)
6:30- closed primary (as the manual instructs) and closed secondary 3/4 closed and the stove temp-550 and going up
7:00- 750F closed secondary all the way
7:30- 775F tubes glowing
7:31- had a thought...Of course the tubes are glowing...with the secondary air control closed very little fresh air is running through the tubes and just 3 inches under the tube is very hot firewood, if I open the secondary air a bit then cooler air will run through the tubes and cool them down.
7:32- opened the 2nd control a little bit- flames started swirling around and the tubes stopped glowing but the temp went up to 800 so i closed it.
8:00- 750F, tubes glowing, especially the middle tube.
9:00- 650, slight glow, wood has burnt up significantly

help

 

[agz124]

9:31- 450F, no glowing tubes, nice heat, 50% of wood load left, air still closed all the way.

 

[BrotherBart]

There has just got to be a leak around the ash removal door on the bottom of that firebox. Probably a chunk of charcoal or something keeping it from sealing.

 

[jtp10181]

Is it possible you are letting the fire build up too much before you close down the startup air? Sounds like once you got it under control at 450F it was working great. What happens if you open the air a little bit at that point?

 

[nshif]

Do you have the ash removal system? There is also a gasket down there where the door closes against the bottom of the stove. If not there is a cover plate with a gasket.
I started with a brand new stove with no ash at all and havent noticed any diff in temps with or without it.
Have you checked your thermometer? My tubes glow at just over 450. As was said put it in your oven at the highest temp setting you have and see if its close.

 

[agz124]

10:30 - 450F and I just added a log. Maybe I was letting get too hot before I cut back on air. The manual says to run it wide open 15 minutes after reloading!! I will try adding a little secondary air and see what happens.