I tried to start my Husky Countyline 22t splitter after the winter, after I had not been using it for a long time. It worked fine for a minute, then spluttered and stopped. Could not start after that. I assume my cuarbirator is filled with water. I put the fresh gas in, of course, but after inspection, I see there is a fraction of water in the tank. Not sure if the small amount of old gas went bad or if melting water from the snow somehow made its way in it. I plan to drain the tank and clean it inside to the best of my ability. Should I do something with the carburetor or just try to use fresh gas and make it work?
The log splitter's carburetor flooded with water.
- Thread starter Dmitry
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Dod you have an ethanol-blended gas in your splitter? If so, that water you are seeing in the bottom of your tank is likely an ethanol-water mix: the water has combined with the ethanol in the fuel and settled to the bottom (know as phase separation).
That ethanol-water mixture is corrosive and might have damaged your carburetor. If you are lucky, your carb might be ok, and draining all of the old fuel and the ethanol water mix, then replacing it with fresh fuel might get you going. If you are unlucky, and damage has taken place, you might have to either rebuild or replace the carburetor
That ethanol-water mixture is corrosive and might have damaged your carburetor. If you are lucky, your carb might be ok, and draining all of the old fuel and the ethanol water mix, then replacing it with fresh fuel might get you going. If you are unlucky, and damage has taken place, you might have to either rebuild or replace the carburetor
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Take the bolt out to drain the carb bowl and drain it all, then add a lil fresh gas to rinse it again. Fresh non ethanol gas back in it, maybe a lil dry gas or some sort of additive too.
Check the oil, make sure it's clean and water free too. If that unit has the Kohler engine on it, those are known for letting rain run through the air cleaner cover right down into the carb. A bucket or something covering the engine when it's not running would be a real good idea.
Check the oil, make sure it's clean and water free too. If that unit has the Kohler engine on it, those are known for letting rain run through the air cleaner cover right down into the carb. A bucket or something covering the engine when it's not running would be a real good idea.
I agree, it’s probably from ethanol gas, if you don’t have a fuel shut off make sure you add one and run it dry every time you use it.
Drain the tank, and the carb then try to run it with fresh gas. Sometimes a jet get clogged (you’ll know when it starts or doesn’t. I’ve had some success using my hand like a plunger in the gas cap opening to “push the clog” out of a jet. If that doesn’t work, you’ll probably need to disassemble and repair or replace the carb.
Drain the tank, and the carb then try to run it with fresh gas. Sometimes a jet get clogged (you’ll know when it starts or doesn’t. I’ve had some success using my hand like a plunger in the gas cap opening to “push the clog” out of a jet. If that doesn’t work, you’ll probably need to disassemble and repair or replace the carb.
Ethanol evaporates as well leaves a film behind that plugs up filter screens and jets additionally it rots the fuel lines from the inside out compounding the problem. Wurst thing ever foisted upon the public by the epa. Ethanol is hydroscopic - attracts water.
Agreed - the best way to keep the carb clean and working is to install a valve in the gas line and shut it off and run dry every time. I also have found that once the carb is buggered, rather than installing a kit and trying to clean out all the ports and orifices, buy a new card on Amazon and install that. New carbs are cheap and to rebuild it, it needs to be removed anyway. Take pictures of the lnkages so you don't forget how to re-assemble!
Getting a new carb is a fix
But don't forget that unless you are buying the OEM carbs, you are getting cheap china parts don't have a 100% guarantee that they actually work.
Just keep that in mind after replacing the carb and it still doesn't run right.
LOL - anything that contains Chinesium could be an issue!
I've had good luck with the carbs I have received from both Amazon & Aliexpress. I've replaced carbs on a Tecumseh 7HP on a snowblower, Stihl 009L chainsaw, a B&S 6.5 HP lawnmower, a 250cc GIO dirtbike, and a Kawasaki KV 75 minibike. Installing the gas shutoff valve where possible sure helps longevity.
I've had good luck with the carbs I have received from both Amazon & Aliexpress. I've replaced carbs on a Tecumseh 7HP on a snowblower, Stihl 009L chainsaw, a B&S 6.5 HP lawnmower, a 250cc GIO dirtbike, and a Kawasaki KV 75 minibike. Installing the gas shutoff valve where possible sure helps longevity.
Whitenuckler
Feeling the Heat
The water will settle to the bottom of a gas container, so when you flip it over to pour, the water will come out first. I have never done this, but if you syphon out the gas you want from a large container (and keep the nozzle/hose end 2 inches from the bottom) you should get all gas. With a gas shutoff, you can get rid of the gas in the line/carb by running. Then get as much gas out of the tank as you can. Next time you fill the tank, use good gas. There will still be some contaminated gas in the line, but that is pretty hard to get rid of unless you purge the entire system of gas. If you drain the tank, and then run it with the valve open you will get most of the gas, but it takes longer running.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Things with steel gas tanks should be stored clear full to stop condensation and therefore rust in the tank...and if e free gas is used that eliminates a lot of problems too.
People with nice old motorcycles well know this trick...
People with nice old motorcycles well know this trick...
Yes, either completely full (with a fuel stabilizer that includes corrosion protection) or completely empty. A full tank minimizes condensation by minimizing the air space in which condensation can form. Condensation forms when the ambient temperature is below the dew point of the air or when a surface is colder than the dew point. (Picture the outside of a glass full of ice water or a can of cold beer on a humid day.) An empty tank generally closely tracks the temperature of the ambient air, minimizing the opportunity for condensation. Days or seasons where the temperature fluctuates significantly are prime candidates for creating condensation. Those who live in areas where the relative humidity is reliably low tend to have far less issues with this problem.
It's a good practice with ANY fuel tank where the fuel is not regularly turned over, not just steel tanks. The recommendation for using non-ethanol gas is a good one for any fuel tank which may end up with fuel stored for an extended period. Modern vehicles have adopted materials which minimize the risks of using ethanol fuel, however, that risk is not completely eliminate. While other tank materials might not corrode, the mix of Ethanol and water which settles out when enough water is introduced to ethanol blended gas is corrosive. IT can damage carburetors and other engine parts with which it comes in contact. Small engines are particularly susceptible to problems when ethanol fuel is stored for extended periods. 2-cycle engines ae especially a concern: the fuel is also the engine lubrication, so that corrosive mixture can sit in the crankcase, corroding other, less visible engine components.
A minor side tangent on this. Go to Wally world and grab a Rubbermaid tote that is the right size to drop over the top of the engine. I've done this for years and never had a water issue bad enough to affect how it runs.
Winter before last I had one stripped off in a wind storm, I never did find it, and replaced it with a clear one. They seem to be affected by UV light and cracked last summer. I never had that issue with the ones that aren't clear.
Winter before last I had one stripped off in a wind storm, I never did find it, and replaced it with a clear one. They seem to be affected by UV light and cracked last summer. I never had that issue with the ones that aren't clear.
A good idea. I have a cover for my log splitter. It's been working much better than the tarp I used to use, and the elastic bottom makes it much less of a hassle to install (Classic Accessories, sold by Northern Tool. NT they sells several other sizes made to fit their Champion line of splitters, but which will probably fit other brands. There are also a number of offerings on Amazon.)
I turn a 5 gallon plastic bucket upside down to cover the electrical controls and fuel tank on my log forwarding trailer.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Even the OEM carbs for most things are from China. China isn't the problem, it's cheap china products. It's not that they can't make nice stuff, it's just more expensive. Your point is solid though, a rebuilt OEM carb at least worked once when it was new so you know the jets are the right size. Aftermarket can have orifices and jet sizes different from direct OEM.
Sorry i have to disagree with you about china being a problem...
All the money china makes from selling it's "wares" to North America goes to building it's military might...
Biggly problem for the rest of the world
I suspect @Highbeam was referring to China being the problem with poor quality. I have to agree with him on that. China will make what there is demand for. If people are searching for the lowest price and ignoring quality, that is what China will make. They are capable of making higher quality items for many products - and they do if their customers demand it (whether that customer is the company contracting for the manufacture of the goods, or the end user buying direct). The problem is us - the end users. Too many of us are shopping simply on price.
Well, in my eyes, Asian people work for less money, meaning they can sell their products for less
If the part is built in North America at a cost of 100$ and in Asia at a cost of 10$ we being a frugal people will almost always buy the less expensive product, just human nature
If the part is built in North America at a cost of 100$ and in Asia at a cost of 10$ we being a frugal people will almost always buy the less expensive product, just human nature
I know he was referring to the poor quality...
I have seen both sides of stuff produced by them.
I still stand by the fact that they are using the money they make from the North American market where they dump their junk to build their military strength with the end game of taking over the world.
They play a long game, World domination is their end game and they have never tried to hide it. And yet the money keeps flowing to them because everyone shops by price.
