The saga of the backwards installed Selkirk flue pipe.

[Weir Fan]

Hello,

I'm a newbie here. I have an old Glenwood cookstove (avatar) that I've owned for over 25 years but have never used. I completed a major house renovation including a kitchen make-over so I could.

It turns out that the chimney mason installed a length of Selkirk pipe backwards. He figured that it would be OK to ram 6" single wall pipe into the Selkirk section which is surrounded by the usual thimble. As such, the male end of the Selkirk pipe is facing the room, not the female end.

I spoke with someone at Selkirk and they don't have any female-female type adapters. I have installed a 6" section of Selkirk pipe to get it through my tile heat shield and need to transition to 6" single wall pipe to attach to the back of the Glenwood. While I could hammer in a male-male 6" fluted pipe into the Selkirk, I would much prefer something a bit neater that would also hide the male coupling ring. A female-female Selkirk connector or a female Selkirk end-to-male fluted single wall pipe adapter would be just the ticket. The usual adapter is Selkirk male end and male fluted end as shown below.

I would really appreciate some suggestions.

Thanks!

- Neil

 

[coaly]

That's fine. Normally a "smoke pipe adapter" is used from connector pipe to chimney secion, and there is a support box that the chimney section sets in. That gives you the same end you have now. You can also simply put a little crimp on the end of connector pipe going into the pipe you've got. Is there a T in the chimney at other end of that pipe with clean out at bottom, or an elbow going up?

Any fluid that may drip down is going straight down the T if there is one.


If there's a shaker grate, and you use coal, it won't condensate anyway. I had no liquid issue with an antique Buckwalter. Only tar and sticky gunk from condensation under the oven from oven use with wood. My current Kitchen Queen (modern still produced cookstove) circulates UNDER oven first, around side and up so that eliminates the gooey mess under the oven. No issues with the flue, but it's insulated and doesn't increase in size.

 

[Weir Fan]

Thanks Coaly;

The local stove shop suggested the same solution but I was hoping for something cleaner visually. Any suggests for something that goes around the 6" male-male fluted pipe that would cover the Selkirk threaded cap? The usual 2" wide collar is 1" too wide.

The fluted end of the flue pipe is the horizontal leg of the "T" and is located at the chimney flue. The chimney clean-out is in the cellar.

One new question. The Glenwood outlet oval flange has an equivalent round pipe diameter of 6 5/8". How large a diameter will a 6" snap-lock draw band expand?

Thanks,

- Neil

 

[coaly]

Ovalize the pipe and put it inside??

 

[Weir Fan]

The inside flange measurements are 7 1/2" x 5". The equivalent diameter is 6.1". I bent a 6" section into an oval and stuffed it into the flange and it is definitely too loose.

 

[coaly]

I've had some including my current one that fit so loose I had to clip the female crimped end off so the raised bulge in the pipe goes down inside.

Ace Hardware has the best selection of pipe and adapters around here. Probably can't get the flange off the stove easy to take with you to match something up.

Home Depot sells Dura-Vent and their chimney support box is close to what you have there. There is a black adapter that snaps tight into the bottom of support box and made with clips to not come back out. That would be the neatest and cleanest if the size is the same to go from pipe to chimney. I crimp the pipe end enough to get started inside, but not enough to show crimps when it's put together. You also crimp it down and bend outward while the crimpers are on the pipe like pliers to make the crimped end parallel with the pipe inside. That way it's not so funnel shaped like a wedge. It's about half a bite of the crimper depth and bend outward a little violent.
Experience making due in a pinch helps I guess.