I have a 1992 Vermont Castings #2220 Reliance installed by myself after building my hearth place .... in 1992. It has a red stop button, a green start button, a switch to switch between stove thermostat or wall mount thermostat, and a 270 degree dial for low to high. Weight unloaded is about 375 pounds, it will hold about 48 pounds pellets and run as long as 30 hours on low, it is rated 8,000-40,000 Btu's/hr. There is no "code" display to see.
It vents out through a 3 foot long 3" Dura Vent into a tee and up 15 more feet to a pellet vent cap. Outside air is used for combustion using 2" pipe. Over the years, most years I burned through 3-4 tons. The last couple years I have saved some by using smaller quartz infared heaters for spot heat.
Many times in harsher winters than this she has run for 2 weeks or longer steady with no shut down, just an ash pan dumping every 3-5 days as needed. The window has gotten pretty dark but that's never seemed to affect heat output. I usually run it well under half dial (immagine 7:30 is low, 4:30 is highest) like between 9 and 10:00 o'clock (as high as 10:30-11:00 if really cold like near zero..... tried it at over about 3:00 o'clock once .... about ran us out of the house soon!)
In the first year or so, it choked on some pellets (too fast a feed rate) and I was told it needed a thermocouple when I called and VC sent me one free. I installed it and cleaned the stove, all OK.
A few years later the auger started making a racket and then a screeching and then .... it died. I took a look after moving the stove around, removed auger drive motor (maybe 1/4 rpm gear motor) and auger, found auger was mounted in two originally sealed flange mount ball bearings front to back ... one nearest fire seized up which is what destroyed gear motor drive. Got new gear motor complete and two new auger bearings at W W Grainger in Roanoke. As I reassembled it, I made a shield to totally shield the bearings using some steel exhaust pipe and a steel disc (imagine a steel washer, 2" OD and maybe 5/8" ID) welded like a cup with a hole for the auger, it is sandwitched between auger spiral and bearing race. That was mid to late 1990s.
I think the reason that the auger bearing seized up was maybe a combination of an unshielded bearing and my letting the stove run empty which caused the fans to run and stove to try to stay lit and thus fire's heat made it all the way back through auger. Or maybe some fines got into the bearing? In either case, the shield I made seems to have cured it.
It's rolling the BTUs out as I type. Currently loaded about 50/50 with Statesman Prem Hardwood Pellets and some TSC Prem Hardwood pellets. I tried Lignetics a couple times, very poor. Gonna try some of the Lowe's Pellets soon I think.
I have a spare auger gear motor I bought a few years ago when I thought mine was going out again .... but then I found the noise and it was a simple fix, not the gear motor. I did use a hole saw years ago to cut a hole in front of burn pot underneath to allow easier cleaning and made a plate to cover that hole that secures with two 1/4-20 bolts.
This spring I'll maybe pull the fire box after removing 4 bolts and rebuild (weld) the seam across the front where it cracked a couple years ago ... but it doesn't seem to affect the burn. Will then clean it well again, lube fans, check auger bearings and gear motor. I'll also gently blow dust off control board .... and install all new flue to replace the 25 year old flue that is starting to rot on outside layer. I am currently working on getting a new roof put on the house and my flue goes out a side wall and up through a carport roof. Might reroute it slightly.
In a power outage, there never is smoke in the house as the flue seems to draw well even as the fire slowly ebbs. If power comes back within and hours or so, she takes off OK.